The Cinque Terre
Today’s visit to the Cinque Terre was tinged with disappointment as much of the Sientero Azzurro was closed and the weather, though mostly dry, remained resolutely cloudy pretty much all day. Even this early in the season, crowds are building, so I’m not sure I’d want to risk a later visit to improve my chances of sunshine. Trains saved the day for speedy transfers between villages, but for wow factor views I was glad I took to the sea.
Manarola, as viewed from Corniglia
A splash of colour on a wall in Corniglia
Vernazza as viewed from the stairwell of its ancient tower
Typical local produce on sale in Vernazza
Cliff top Corniglia as seen from the boat
A day out on Lake Como
An easy half hour train ride from Milan, Lake Como is worth seeing for a day out if, like me, you don’t have time in your schedule for a longer visit. EuroCity and Regionale trains arrive at Como San Giovanni station and from there it’s a short stroll down to the lake shore.
A boat trip gives you the opportunity to see lots of Como’s villages
From there, you can take a boat ride onto Lago di Como. If you only have a day, an express boat will save you time. I took one to Bellagio, paying just under 15 Euros; there’s a supplement for the fast boat which bumps up the price by about half. The vessel makes a few stops as it heads for this pretty village, passing George Clooney’s Villa Oleandra in Laglio on the way.
Laglio, where George Clooney owns a villa.
On a sunny day, with the snowcapped peaks of the Alps in the background, it’s a beautiful ride. Sit on the left hand side of the boat to get the best views as you aren’t supposed to switch seats once underway.
The Alps rising behind Lake Como
In Bellagio itself, there’s an attractive waterfront with gardens overlooking the lake and the Alps. Cafes line the street behind. You’ll pay a premium to sit and look at this view, but prices aren’t exorbitant.
The waterfront is packed with restaurants and hotels
I wanted something a little different, and had lunch at Cava Turacciolo. It’s a bar serving food, crammed full of bottles of wine from all over Italy. I’m not a wine connoisseur but they indulged my inappropriate choice of spumante without making me feel it wasn’t suitable. I didn’t care – it was like drinking alcoholic honey – and I really couldn’t resist a second glass.
Heaven for wine aficionados
To walk off lunch, I climbed the steps up to the main street, not as tough as it looked as the steps were shallow. At the top, there were plenty of shops to browse, including several selling silk, which is a speciality of Como. There’s also a church and tower.
Don’t be so focused on where you’re going you forget to look down side streets
On account of the extended window shopping, I didn’t have time for the gardens for which Bellagio is known, such as the Villa Melzi D’Eril. I caught a glimpse of it on the bus back to Como, a much cheaper option than the boat at less than 4 Euros. Sit on the right hand side when you return to Como for the best views as it hugs the lakeshore most of the way back.
View from the C30 bus
The bus drivers of New Zealand
So often, it’s the people that make a place memorable more than the sights themselves. To really engage with a place, there needs to be a connection, and it’s the human interactions that facilitate that. I’ve been thinking about which places have the warmest and most welcoming locals, and I have to say New Zealand comes high up the list. I spent a week in South Island using the reliable bus system to see the main sights, but didn’t realise just how much I’d enjoy the journeys between those places. Here’s a piece I wrote for myWanderlust not long after I returned.
Inside the man there was a scruffy boy itching to get out.
The commentary as we edged down South Island’s west coast may have been aimed at adults, but tales of Australians landing planes upside down in the swamp came right out of Boys Own. With his untamed mop of greasy ginger hair, Dave was one of those people where you could still vividly imagine what he’d have looked like as a lad, scraped knees and all. Heading south from Greymouth into country country, everyone got a cheery wave, but then Dave knew most people. When it came to the drop off, he flicked the rolled up newspaper expertly through the window hatch as he once had from his push bike, slowing only slightly before checking his wing mirror to smugly inform us it had landed accurately.
“Yup, that’ll do ya. That paper’s printed at midday. If I didn’t run it through, they wouldn’t get it until tomorrow. No point in old news, is there?”
Bridge between Greymouth and Hokitika as navigated by Dave the bus driver
Dave told us he had the best job in the country but salt and pepper haired George disagreed. Picking up the baton from Franz Josef, he made sure everyone had visited the glaciers, threatening to leave us behind if we couldn’t tell him enough about what he insisted we should have seen.
Yes, I passed the test! Proof I visited Franz Josef glacier.
He wound us expertly round impossibly tight turns to deposit us at viewpoints framed with the ubiquitous but elegant tree fern, fronds shimmying like a Twenties flapper. Jovial when on the move, he was quick to chastise anyone who dared hold up the coach. At breakfast, out of serendipitous necessity swapping a motorway service station for a salmon farm deep in the forest, he joined me at my table. The conversation flitted back and forth as George downed his second cup of tea. Gruff George, it turned out, was a gentle man underneath; having lost his wife to cancer, he confided that meeting people on his bus had helped him through the tough times.
Wheezy Pete, with a capacious belly nurtured over many years supping good beer, shook our hands as we returned from a roadside hike to a waterfall. George introduced his replacement and pointed to the bus parked on the opposite side of the road.
Awesome NZ just about sums it up!
“You lot are hard work,” he chuckled, “there are only four on that other bus, I’m off back to Franz for a quiet life.”
And so the thirteen of us headed for Queenstown, encroaching steadily on snow-capped mountains as we edged alongside Lake Wanaka. Pete pointed out the world’s oldest bungee jump, offering a free ride to anyone who took up the challenge.
A few days passed before I met Dione. Dione was different, the first driver under forty, with a baseball cap and an exceptionally good knowledge of sheep. When not talking farming, he spoke incessantly of the weather.
“We have two hundred days of rain down here, bringing seven metres of water every year. For you folks that measure in millimetres, that’s a lot of rain!”
But he had the most spectacular drive, through the mountains down to Milford Sound. Skirt folds of Rimu trees parted to reveal the tiniest slivers of silvery petticoat cascading into puddles that blurred onto the water below. Our day was sunny, the deep azure of the sky framing the sheer cliffs of the fjord and diamonds pricking the water.
“Jeez, you guys are lucky. Even the keas are behaving today – yesterday those bloody parrots flew into the bus and shat all over the dash.”
Kea inspecting the bus for Dione
Wiry Tom knew he had the rough end of the deal, for it was he who would remove us from the crisp air of the mountains and carry us across the Canterbury Plain in all its sheep-strewn monotony. He tried his best with Mount Cook, but our wonder at the beauty of New Zealand’s highest peak was tainted by the knowledge of what was to come. I passed the time trying to figure out which Hollywood movie actor he reminded me of; a cop, no, the President? It was a twelve hour ride and I reached Christchurch none the wiser.
The road to Mount Cook
Yes, Dione was indeed different. He was the only one who wasn’t a scheduled bus driver, our driver-guide on a coach tour to one of the country’s best known attractions. In New Zealand, buses aren’t just there to take their passengers from point to point. To be a bus driver on South Island you needed a sense of humour and a good head for facts. I’d say a good aim and experience as a paper boy got you a long way too.
Mapunda’s story
As a keen proponent of independent travel, you might be surprised to find I’m also an advocate of hiring a good guide. While it’s great to wander aimlessly round a city stumbling over its hidden and not so hidden attractions, there are some destinations where a guide will significantly enhance your experience. Sometimes, as in Cappadocia, hiking for the first time after injuring my back, I was grateful not only for my guide’s navigational ability but for a helping hand over what were at the time quite challenging boulders and slippery gravel paths. My favourite guide, by a considerable margin, was the inimitable Mapunda, with whom I spent an exhilarating, and at times hysterical, few days amidst some of Tanzania’s most beautiful scenery. Here’s why we had such a fun time:
“Let me tell you why I am named Mapunda. A long time ago, my ancestors lived in South Africa. They embarked on a long journey, crossing Mozambique before settling in the south of Tanzania. Along the way, they killed zebra to eat. It was the way they survived. Because of the zebra, I am here today. And in my language, the word for zebra is mapunda.”
Mapunda
Mapunda went by the nickname Zebraman. He had worked as a driver for a safari company based in Arusha, in the north of Tanzania, for the past eight years. Before that, until the threat from poaching got too dangerous, he was a ranger at Tarangire National Park. But Mapunda had a secret. He dreamt of owning his own safari company and working for himself. This was a huge endeavour. To buy a brand new safari vehicle outright would cost over $60,000, so he planned to rent. On the side, he dreamed, it would have a zebra logo, black and white not only being the colours of the animal after which he was named, but also, he added, for the black and white people that would all be welcome to travel in it. Proudly, he gave me his business card, bearing the logo of two zebras facing in opposite directions watching for lions. As he shared his plans, his eyes lost their customary sad, wistful appearance and shone brightly. It was clear this meant the world to him.
Tarangire, our first stop, is known for its elephants, a childhood favourite of mine. The first thing Mapunda pointed out, however, was not a living creature. Instead, he showed me the house he lived in during his ranger days. He spoke with fondness, apologising unnecessarily for delaying the start of our safari. Later, his ranger experience paid dividends as he always knew the best places to find the animals, even during their midday nap. Without malice, he was dismissive of many of the other drivers, tutting after they asked him where the best spots were, or, worse still, follow him to tailgate on the wildlife he had found. He always helped them, though.
Coming in dry season, the grass was dry and river levels low. We forded the Tarangire River several times during the course of the day, watching zebras and wildebeest linger bravely for a drink whilst keeping a watchful eye out for any hungry lions that might pick off their weakest. Impalas grazed under five hundred year old baobab trees, skittish as Mapunda cut the engine and pulled alongside. Nonchalant giraffes munched on the highest leaves, their long thick tongues gently caressing each stem as they made their choice.
As we ate our sandwiches, Mapunda taught me some Swahili. ‘Tembo’ meant elephant, ‘simba,’ lion; ‘nina taka’ translated as ‘I want’. After lunch, it was time to try it out.
“Nina taka tembo.”
The elephant, grazing a few short metres away from the vehicle, flapped his ears wide and lifted his trunk, warning us off. I was transfixed.
Male elephant scratching on a tree stump
Eventually, Mapunda asked if I was ready to go.
“Sawa sawa,” I answered. “OK.”
We headed down to the river, rewarded by the sight of more of these magnificent creatures blowing water and quenching their thirst. Others, further up the river, wallowed in the mud in the shallows, rolling onto their backs with the bliss that comes from cooling off from the relentless sun. Each encounter left me wanting more.
Mapunda was patient, indulging me. Click, click, click. Mapunda was keen to make sure I was getting good shots, and enthused when I showed him what I’d taken.
“Nina taka simba? Or more elephants, Julia? Or a zebra. Why don’t you like my zebras?” he teased.
It became a regular joke that if I saw elephants, I was happy. Equally, he would laugh when I would fake that the zebras were the highlight of that particular drive. We got each other. Sometimes a look was all it took to have us both hooting with laughter.
Mapunda’s beloved zebras
Mapunda and I joked that I said “Nina taka” and what I wished for immediately came true. Perhaps I should have said “Nina taka lottery win” or for Mapunda, “Nina taka lots of clients for the new business.”
Each day, Mapunda was punctual, eyes bright, grin wide. His enthusiasm was infectious: I felt lucky to be spending time with someone with such a zest for life. I’d been on safari before, but this time, the memories have endured, more than just the animals I spotted, and I reckon that’s mostly down to Mapunda. Every now and then I get an email from him. The business is slowly getting up and running and his gratitude to each client is a reminder that we should all count our blessings.
Six feet up a mountain
Later this month, I’m off to Italy to review trains on behalf of Trenitalia and Trainline Europe, but I shall also be making a brief detour north of the border into Austria. I first visited at the tender age of nine months and since then it’s remained one of my favourite countries for a summertime visit. One of my most treasured memories is from a trip I took with my golden retriever Einstein a few years ago. The Pet Passport Scheme has made taking a pet abroad a simple and easy process. So long as I pack his favourite soft toy, Einstein happily travels in the boot of the car and loves nothing better than to give customs officials a surprise when they open up the tailgate to check what they expect to be luggage.
Here’s what happened when Einstein and I decided to take to the hills…
My walking companion, Einstein
There was no way either of us was walking up.
Both of us were far too lazy for that, so I’d decided on the gondola. It was located up a gravel track, steep enough to confirm that the decision was a correct one. He looked at me expectantly, checking to make sure I wasn’t going to change my mind and demand that we walk to the top. I looked up the mountain and then at him and then climbed the few steps to the ticket office.
“Ein und ein Hund, bitte.” That was about as far as my German went (grammatically appalling I expect) but taking a dog on a gondola was common practice here and the woman slid me my ticket without comment.
Inside, we hit a snag. The gondola couldn’t stop and the dog wouldn’t move. Einstein was having none of it, digging his back paws firmly into the ground and refusing to go near the terrifying machine with its hum and its swing. Lifting him was not an option; he’s 32kg of solid golden retriever. After several aborted attempts, we managed to board, me first and Einstein preferring to jump into the unknown than remain behind without me.
This walking business was tougher than we thought.
Time for a rest
At the upper station, we got off with somewhat less drama and took off at a slight run in the direction of down. Unfortunately, the path passed within a couple of feet of a toboggan run and a couple of kids flew past us, screaming and laughing. Slothful Einstein sensed his chance to speed our return to the village cafe where we’d both enjoyed a splendid Austrian breakfast, and dragged me forward in an attempt to slide down the mountain instead of walk. I yanked hard on his lead and disaster was averted.
Once we actually got into a proper routine, the walk down the meadow and along the mountain stream was really rather pleasant. From time to time, we’d pause to admire the view of the Wilder Kaiser in front of us. Stray clouds caught on craggy summit ridges. Geranium-adorned chalets peaked out from behind pine tree plantations down in the valley.
This area, in the Austrian Tirol, is one of my favourite. I’ve been walking in these mountains, off and on, since I was four years old. In the early days, I remember walks with my younger sister, a lot of cows and bellowing thunder – or was that a lot of thunder and bellowing cows? We got wet, she got chased, that I do remember. Later, as a student, I took Wilder walks, (that’s vill-der, not wild-er) and watched the cows being herded down to the village complete with flower-adorned headdresses for the annual Alm Festival. I always feel calm on these pastures, totally relaxed, breathing in the crisp mountain air and letting the freedom envelope the whole of my being.
Relief for hot paws
That day, the sun shone on Einy and I, but the mountain stream was still icy cold and perfect for soaking tired paws as we trundled downhill. I chattered, he listened, ambling beside me obediently unless he saw a squirrel or a bird or a hiker. Aside from the odd cattle grid, always problematic, the walk passed without further incident and, down in the valley, we reached the main road.
Where was the village?
“Oh, bugger, Einstein. The village has moved. Not sure the last part of our walk is going to be as scenic…”
Yes, this walking business was tougher than we thought, I decided, as we finished our walk along hard pavements. But if you have to tough it out, then tough it out with the Wilder Kaiser in front of you, I’d say.
And so would Einstein, if he could talk.
How to save money on your South American trip
Many people might rule out a holiday in South America on the grounds that it is too expensive, but there are ways to save money and make that dream trip an affordable reality. Here’s what you need to know:
Book independently
Tour operator prices to Latin America are often prohibitively expensive. Although some operators offer good value, such as Llama Travel and Journey Latin America’s value range, typical tour prices are high. Unpackage your trip and book it yourself. Get decent insurance and make sure that your Transatlantic flights aren’t going to be affected by a cancelled or delayed short haul connection by purchasing all legs as a through ticket. Don’t be tempted to book airport transfers or tours in advance for the popular destinations as you’ll pay a premium and it’s simple to arrange these on arrival.
Llama feeding in the village of Toconao
Book your trip for shoulder season
Peak period flights to South America are expensive, there’s no getting round it. But if you can be flexible with your dates, then it is possible to slash the cost of your Transatlantic fare. For example, travelling in the shoulder seasons (spring and autumn) can reduce prices significantly. Don’t rule out the southern hemisphere winter. Air France flights from London to Lima last June were on sale for a little over £500 (compared to over £1000 in August) and if your planned destination is up in the Andes such as Cusco in Peru or San Pedro de Atacama in Chile then it will be dry and sunny during the daytime – just pack a thick fleece and jacket for the evenings.
Don’t assume the European route will be the cheapest
There are few direct flights to Latin America, meaning demand often outstrips supply which pushes the prices up. Use a flight comparison website to see which routes are cheapest for the dates you wish to travel; many people consider the US and European hubs such as Amsterdam, Paris and Madrid, but there are often deals to be had to west coast destinations via Brazil or Argentina with LATAM. At the time of writing, LAN were offering return fares to Rio for £419. If you’re on a really tight budget but have bags of time, you could consider reaching your final destination overland from Rio or Buenos Aires.
Hubbing through Buenos Aires could save you a packet
Do your homework on internal flights
Sometimes, overnight buses provide a cheap and surprisingly comfortable alternative to flying. Many large bus companies in Latin America offer cama or semi-cama seating – large spacious seats which recline far enough for you to have a good night’s sleep. Stick to a reputable operator which will use two drivers and ensure they are drug-tested and safe to go behind the wheel. Try Cruz del Sur, for example, between Arequipa and Cusco. If you do need to fly, check the terms and conditions before purchasing. LAN offers sizeable discounts on its internal flights in Chile if you book from a Chilean website (use free software such as Tor) or via a Chilean travel agent – and you don’t have to be Chilean national to take advantage of them. This isn’t the case for all countries; in Argentina, discounted prices are for nationals only.
Valle de la Luna, Chile
Don’t rule out hostels and guest houses
Private rooms in hostels increasingly come with private bathrooms and can be a fraction of the cost of a similar quality hotel room. They’re also a good way to meet other like-minded travellers who might be willing to split the cost of tours with you. Use a reliable website such as Booking.com or Hostelbookers.com to fix up your accommodation in advance – use the free cancellation option, monitoring prices so you can cancel and rebook if prices fall before you leave. Check locations carefully so that you are within walking distance of transport operators or the attractions you want to visit.
Package up tours
If you do decide to book tours, some operators will bundle up different day and half-day excursions offering a discount for cash. If you’re booking for the next few days ahead, they’ll be keen to fill their minibus and will want to make sure you don’t take your business elsewhere. This works well where it’s normal to take tours rather than use public transport to visit sites of interest, such as the Sacred Valley near Cusco and Los Flamencos National Reserve in the Chilean Atacama.
Inti Raymi celebrations take place in Cusco each June
Consider self-drive
In Chilean Patagonia, accommodation providers in the Torres del Paine National Park offered expensive all-inclusive packages. Self-drive from Punta Arenas (four hours) or Puerto Natales (one hour) and drive yourself round the park. Stock up at the supermarket in Puerto Natales for provisions to save buying expensive box lunches from the hotel (and make sure you have a full tank of petrol). The maps and information provided by the visitor centre are excellent and you won’t have wasted money on a guide.
The Torres del Paine National Park
Around San Pedro de Atacama
Despite its diminutive size, the village of San Pedro de Atacama, a desert oasis of adobe homes set around an attractive square, features on many people’s itineraries when they head for Chile. Reached by bus from nearby Calama, a two-hour flight from the capital Santiago, San Pedro is perfectly placed as a base from which to explore the picturesque scenery of Los Flamencos National Reserve. Tourists can explore lagoons framed by snow-capped volcanoes high in the altiplano, wander across salt pans or see dawn break at the atmospheric El Tatio geyser field. Despite a growing number of visitors, if choose your operator carefully it’s still possible to have a magical experience. I chose Desert Adventure: the guiding was excellent and the tours unrushed. Here are some of my favourite photos from the trip.
Laguna Miscanti with Cerro Miscanti in the background
Vicuña graze the altiplano in family groups
Salar Aguas Calientes – all the colours of the Caribbean but none of the heat!
Salar Aguas Calientes – almost like a watercolour
Flamingo spotting at Laguna Chaxa
Llama feeding in the village of Toconao
Valle de la Luna
Sunset at Valle de la Luna
Sunrise at El Tatio geyser field
Atmospheric El Tatio
The rustic church at the village of Macucha, famed for its delicious anticuchos de llama
One of the dogs that gives the village its nickname – San Perro de Atacama
Torres del Paine National Park: the highlights
Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park has been on my wish list for many years. Now that I’ve been, I can report that it didn’t disappoint. You can see my blog about the area on Go4Travel’s website: http://www.go4travelblog.com/torres-del-paine-national-park-highlights/
Here are some of my favourite photos from the trip.
Sunrise over Lago Toro
Cuernos del Paine as seen from Lago Nordernskjold
Salto Grande waterfall
Lago Pehoe in the late afternoon sun
Guanacos in the north of the park
Young guanacos play-fighting
The Torres del Paine
Glaciar Grey
Close up of the ice, Glaciar Grey
Easter Island in pictures
Easter Island, the second most isolated island on the planet, yet famous the world over for the moai which stand sentinel, their backs to its shores. Spending Easter here has been a blessing, the island’s beauty a revelation and the warmth of its people ensuring the memories go beyond mere statues.
Sunrise at Tongariki, site of the greatest number of moai
Long shadows in the morning’s first hour of daylight, beginning in April at a civilised 8am
Sunrise in full colour
Heading north to the coast, but watch out for horses, wild or herded
The moai quarry, Rano Raraku
The kneeling moai at Rano Raraku
Moai quarried right out of the stone cliffs
The beach at Anakena, one of only two sandy shores on an island characterised by rocky cliffs
Ahu Nau Nau: Sand piled up right
behind the ahu (platform) on which stand seven moai
Close up shot of one of the moai at Anakena
Puna Pau top knot quarry
The seven moai at Ahu Akivi, unusual in that they face the sea
Visitors are requested to respect the island’s heritage and keep off the ahu, but the horses don’t always get the message
Rano Kau crater, near the main settlement of Hanga Roa
Vivid colours of the vegetation on the crater rim
The unusual buildings at Orongo
Hanga Roa’s quirky cemetery
Sunset at Ahu Vai Uri, Tahai
Rapa Nui flag – at present the Chilean government aren’t collecting (aren’t able to collect?) the National Park fee; the Rapanui people have roadblocks and are recording visitor details
Boeing Dreamliner takes off to begin its five hour journey back to Santiago on the mainland
Looking back on my trip to Tanna, Vanuatu
The news that Cyclone Pam had ripped through the island nation of Vanuatu in the South Pacific broke last week and, some days later, relief and rescue teams reached the outlying island of Tanna where I spend a week in 2013. While loss of life hasn’t been as great as first feared, given that this was a Category 5 storm the islands have been hit hard. Knowing that Tanna Lodge, where I stayed, had its own generator, I sent an email, not knowing whether they’d receive it. Internet and phone connections are down across the outlying islands. Via a satellite phone, I heard on Sunday morning that the staff and buildings had miraculously survived unscathed, though the lush gardens have been devastated.
Tanna Lodge
Tropical vegetation grows back quickly, and I would urge you to consider visiting to give the islanders the much needed income to help them get back on their feet. In the meantime, I wanted to share a story I wrote shortly after returning from Tanna. The island has many kastom villages, where residents live a traditional lifestyle and some even worship our very own Prince Philip…
The Road to Yakel
Ozzy Osbourne would have loved this, but I was not Ozzy.
Heading for Yakel and expecting Tanna’s regular mode of transport, the dusty but trusty pick-up, I was caught unawares by the invitation to jump on the back of a canary yellow quad bike. Ned, my driver and guide, instructed me to hold on tight. Mild panic set in. I’d happily travelled in all manner of rustic transport from tuk tuks to donkey carts but I’d always steered clear of quads out of a not so irrational fear that they’d be certain to topple over. What was I doing? I didn’t even have a helmet.
The quad bike reaches Yakel
Ned set off at speed up the steep mountain track with the confidence of youth, a wide grin across his face and palm trees reflecting in his sunglasses. Behind him, my mouth clamped tightly into a nervous grimace. Try as I might my mind kept wandering to a story I’d read about Ozzy and his love of quad bikes despite almost dying after crashing one in the grounds of his home. Was he crazy? I wasn’t sure. He didn’t have to contend with a rutted dirt track liberally dusted with volcanic ash and loose gravel. Keep calm, I muttered, reminding myself there was a hospital on the other side of the island.
The ruts deepened into terrifyingly deep chasms and muddy crevasses. Ned, ever cheerful, pointed out the school to our right, funded by Australia. With all their mineral wealth couldn’t they have added to the budget and filled the holes in the road, I wondered? I gripped the handles more tightly than before. One false move and we’d overturn. Tense, I silently willed Ned onwards, wordlessly reminding him to keep left, no right, mind the tree roots, watch that squealing piglet! Up and up we climbed, pausing momentarily here and there to change into a lower gear when the gradient steepened even more.
Higher into the rainforest, the view below became more dramatic where Mt Yasur’s ancient lava flows had once oozed out to sea, but all I could think about was survival. Every approaching village inspired hope. Would this be Yakel? As Ned sped up, the quad bike emitting a throaty roar, we passed clusters of straw and thatch shacks. All looked promising. None, alas, were Yakel. As we bumped and thumped up the interminable track, I implored whatever local God might be listening to make Yakel the next settlement or at the very least, let me get off and walk.
Yakel kids playing in the tree
My plea fell on deaf ears. Instead of our destination, the Gods presented us with a bridge made from crudely tied logs, gaps surely big enough to lodge a wheel and pitch us into the river below. I peered over. Weathered lava bombs ejected from the volcano sat where water should have been. We picked our way over a second and then a third bridge of the same quality. Concrete? Why had no one thought of concrete? I could feel the logs give slightly as young Ned inched across. Even he’d paused before tackling this hurdle, I noted. Would it be better or worse if I shut my eyes?
My thighs burned from the Herculean task of keeping my body wedged up against the back of the slippery seat. Knuckles rose milky white against my sunbrowned hands which had petrified round the handles I had been told to grip. Ned would have to prise me off this thing if we ever reached Yakel. It became a battle of mind over body, but it didn’t help that my mind was still flitting between various scenes of doom which all ended back at Lenakel hospital. Just as I was thinking I couldn’t take much more of this torture, the track widened into a nakamal, a large clearing under the shade of several banyan trees. A smiling man clad only in a namba emerged from the rainforest. The namba, or penis sheath, identified Yakel as a kastom village, where people lived by the simple ways of their ancestors and, in this particular case, had a special fondness for Prince Philip.
Welcome to Yakel, he said, uttering words that were as magical as the forest itself. The emotion I felt was relief rather than euphoria. I still had to go back; downhill was going to be even more terrifying than uphill. But as the other villagers slowly filtered in and began to dance to the sound of their own rhythmic chanting, it was all worth it.
Yakel villagers dance for their visitor
Finally, a win against CityJet
Last July, I flew in to Paris from Lima, Peru with Air France to connect with a CityJet flight back to London City Airport. I checked in as normal at Orly airport on 4 July and made my way airside.
At check-in there was no indication anything was wrong
Noting that the information board didn’t yet have a gate number, I took a seat and read a magazine. After a while, I thought it would be wise to check if the flight had been allocated a gate and was puzzled to see that fifteen minutes before the scheduled take-off slot, the flight had disappeared from the screens. There were no CityJet ground staff around and after asking a few airport employees, I decided to go back landside to find out what was going on.
At the check-in desk, I managed to find out that the flight had been cancelled “for technical reasons”. I was told that there was no way I’d be able to get back to London that evening as the Heathrow and City flights were all full. The CityJet employee was apologetic but when asked for a solution, gave a Gallic shrug and basically told me there was none. A couple of businessmen in the same predicament joined me and received the same treatment. Eventually, a supervisor was called who repeated that there was “no solution”. Eventually, after some heated debate, he acknowledged that it was CityJet’s responsibility to get us back to the UK and suggested that we go on standby for the following morning’s flight – but that it was possible we wouldn’t be able to travel as the flight wasn’t showing sufficient spaces.
To cut a long story short, the only way of a guaranteed return to London was to take the train to Gare du Nord and take Eurostar at our own expense – and under EU rules, claim compensation for the cancelled flight. To do this required the return of our checked luggage. At first, we were told it was waiting on the carousel, but it wasn’t and no member of ground staff knew where it was. Having booked a Eurostar ticket on the understanding I’d be able to leave the airport pretty much immediately, I then had a nail-biting wait for the luggage to be tracked down followed by a mad dash across Paris. I caught my Eurostar train with five minutes to spare.
My Eurostar journey was a very pleasant experience
Back in the UK, I submitted my request for compensation. Having been given a slip of paper at Orly with a handwritten note reading “ticket of the flight can be refound (sic)” I didn’t envisage any issues, even if it had been incorrectly dated as 4 June. I filled in the relevant form from CityJet’s website, attached scans of the relevant receipts and tickets and waited for a response.
Airlines should give you a written notification of a flight cancellation
Nothing happened for several weeks, until I received this reply on 21 August:
Dear Mrs. Hammond Johnson,
Thank you for contacting CityJet.
We write in response to your email regarding your flight incident and we would like to apologise for the inconvenience caused on this occasion.
Having studied your file, we inform you that the incident was due to a technical issue. Such cases are considered as extraordinary events for which we cannot be held liable according to the European Regulation 261/2004.
We therefore regret to inform you that we cannot agree to your compensation request.
We hope your subsequent journeys with us will be to your full satisfaction.
Kind Regards,
Veronica
CityJet Customer Care
Not to be fobbed off, I visited the Which? consumer guide website, which suggested that there was a relevant court case appeal being heard regarding Jet2. Basically, if the appeal went in the customer’s favour rather than that of the airline, technical issues would no longer be classified as extraordinary and I would be entitled to 250 euros in compensation. I decided to wait it out. In November, I read online that the ruling was what I’d hoped for and so I used the Which? template to create the following letter:
24 November 2014
Dear Sir/Madam,
Reference: WX024
I am writing to you in connection with the above flight on which I was booked to travel on 4 July 2014.
The flight was supposed to depart from Paris Orly at 1710, but was cancelled fifteen minutes prior to take off.
When I tried to get compensation under the EU Denied Boarding Regulation 261/2004, I was told I was not eligible because the cancellation was caused by an extraordinary circumstance.
Technical problems are not extraordinary circumstances unless they are the type that you could not expect to encounter when operating a flight.
The decisions made in the Wallentin-Hermann vs. Alitalia case 2009 and Jet2 vs. Huzar case 2014 have confirmed that routine technical difficulties are not extraordinary circumstances. Although Jet2 appealed the ruling, the decision was upheld in November 2014.
I am entitled to the sum of 250 euros compensation and look forward to receiving the sterling equivalent within the next 14 days.
I attach a copy of the ticket and previous correspondence I have had with your airline,
Yours sincerely,
Julia Hammond Johnson
Ensure any written correspondence can be tracked
I posted it recorded delivery as suggested and waited. Weeks passed and I heard nothing. I sent an email to CityJet requesting an answer to my letter. The following day, I received this reply:
Dear Mrs. Hammond Johnson,
I write in response to your email from Saturday, January 31, 2015.
We take into consideration all the emails sent to you previously from our colleague Veronica on the 21 August 2015 regarding your request for the compensation of your flight cancellation.
At that time as per the European Regualtions EC261/2004 technical issue was classified as Extraordinary events which was not eligible for any compensation. Your compensation request was denied in August before the decision regarding technical issues was amended. Therefore your case was close in August 2014 and the decision was made in November 2014.Taking into consideration the European Regulations at that time you are not entitle to any compensation.
On this occasion we must deny your request for compensation.
Yours sincerely,
Hunsini
CityJet Customer Care
Unimpressed by CityJet’s attempts to wriggle out of their legal obligations, I sent this terse reply:
As you are well aware, the ruling in November applies to flights going back up to six years. You are therefore not legally entitled to deny my request for compensation under British and EU law. I am quite prepared to take this to court and to the media, neither of which would do anything good for CityJet’s image.
Please reconsider the request. Surely 250 euros is better than the negative publicity which would be generated. I have no intention of dropping this matter.
Julia Hammond Johnson
It did the trick. I received this email response almost immediately:
Dear Mrs. HAMMOND JOHNSON,
I write in response to your email from Tuesday, February 03, 2015 whereby you explain you have experienced a flight cancellation.
We are pleased to inform you that we agree to offer you the full compensation amount of Eur 250.00.
In order to answer to your request, we would be grateful if you could send us the following documents by responsding to this email
•Complete bank details including the IBAN (International Bank Account Number),
•Swift code / BIC,
•the full name of the Account holder,
•bank name including address
We are looking forward to read from you.
Yours sincerely,
Kaminee
CityJet Customer Care
It made me chuckle – the first line of Kaminee’s response giving the impression that no previous correspondence had taken place. I did as I was asked and was promised compensation within 21 working days. I am pleased to report that the money was credited to my account on 4 March, eight months to the day after the flight cancellation. Other than the fact that the value of the euro has taken a nosedive against the pound during that time, I am happy with the result. Together with the refund I received last July from Opodo (with whom I booked) for the unused flight leg, the compensation I received covered the cost of my train journey back to London.
What have I learnt from this?
Firstly, know your rights and make sure any correspondence you send quotes the relevant court rulings. Secondly, keep all your receipts and paperwork, taking scans to send if your complaint is made via email. Thirdly, where you have to use the regular mail, ensure you use recorded delivery so that you can prove your letter was received and on what date. Finally, I’ve decided that I won’t be travelling with CityJet again – any airline can be forced to cancel a flight, but CityJet’s deliberate attempts to avoid paying out compensation and its lack of integrity as a company mean that I shall choose to take my business elsewhere in future.
Throwback Thursday: the old man and his cigarettes
Before the present conflict kicked off, I visited Syria, spending a few enjoyable days exploring Damascus, Hama and Aleppo before crossing the border into Jordan. It saddens me to see what has happened to this once beautiful country, but I have fond memories of this trip, and especially when I think back to my journey to Jordan’s capital city, Amman…
Straight Street, Damascus
The taxi driver and his assistant scratched their heads as they unpacked the contents of the boot for the third time. My guidebook had said that service taxis only left when full but this was really stretching the concept. My small suitcase was not the problem. My three travelling companions, a Jordanian man and his two daughters, had with them ten or so large bags of assorted shapes, with most of their purchases loosely tied in black plastic sacks. The souks of Damascus were considerably cheaper than those of Amman and the family had taken full advantage.
At 6am the bus station had been almost deserted and my driver and his hustler had decided to try their luck on the main highway. And so it was that we found ourselves by the side of the road surrounded by packages. As the family’s taxi reversed towards us down the main road and popped open its boot, it was clear this was not going to be a fast transfer. Finally, the sixth, or so, attempt at loading the boot was successful – only a handful of bags on laps – and we were on our way. I considered myself lucky to have the front seat and only a small backpack; I had more space than anyone. The hustler balanced precariously the front driver’s seat as we careered along the road, leaning out of the door so as not to interfere with driver’s control of the pedals and trying to keep the door as close to its frame as was possible. Somehow, he was still in one piece when we dropped him off and set off for the border.
Our driver was in a tremendous hurry. It seemed a matter of personal pride to overtake every vehicle on the road, creating a third lane if need be to ensure that the brake wasn’t required. At breakneck speed, we hurtled through the Damascene suburbs and out onto the main road, scattering trucks, vans and cars by the wayside as we passed. No horn was necessary, such was his unwavering determination to push his way through. Each successful manoeuvre spurred him on more. And then, cornering on two wheels (or so it felt), we pulled in to a bunch of roadside shops and parked up with a jolt out front. For twenty minutes negotiations continued and finally our driver emerged with a box of perfumed tissues, large size and pink, and a two litre bottle of water. The almost full box of similarly fragranced yet blue tissues, and an untouched bottle of water in the passenger footwell were clearly insufficient for his needs.
As abruptly as we had pulled in, we were back on the road and, with the impatience of youth, soon accelerated back up to full speed. Fidgeting between lanes, and often straddling them as was the custom, he continued with his quest to overtake every other vehicle in Syria. Reaching a small town twenty kilometres from the border, we parked up with a small group of other service taxis and loaded the three Jordanians and their considerable luggage into one of them. Several hundred Syrian pound notes were handed over to their new driver. Even without me, it was a squeeze, and the back seat was still covered in black sacks next to the two young women. Taking the pink tissues, but neither bottle of water, the racing driver got out. I was introduced to his “father” who was to take me across the border. A leathery, slim fellow with brown jacket and a worried frown permanently on his face, he was a more considerate road user than his predecessor, though no less fast. After stopping briefly to collect the car’s paperwork, we were on our way.
Some reports had suggested that the border formalities could take up to five hours, but at 8.30am the Nasib border was quiet. The Syrian border officials were courteous and thorough, and, aside from a surprise 500 SYP departure tax not mentioned in my guidebook, I crossed into no man’s land without incident. When I emerged from the immigration building, however, my driver was nowhere in sight. I waited for some time in the sunshine until finally he emerged from the direction of the duty free shop clutching a large bag of cigarettes. Leaving one pack of 200 smokes in the bag, he stripped off the cellophane wrapping of the other two and threw it, together with the cardboard cases onto the floor. Every compartment of the taxi was used to store the now loose packets, two in the ashtray, six so perfectly in the armrest it could have been designed for the purpose and three more under the passenger sun visor. What wouldn’t fit were carefully placed, slowly and very deliberately, in his many pockets. Finally, we were ready to set off. Around the corner, a couple of dollars were palmed to an official, a friend, and after a brief exchange of pleasantries, we entered the Jordanian zone.
Each car arriving at the Jabir crossing is searched meticulously, first passing over the top of an official in a pit and then, boot and bonnet open, undergoing a thorough investigation of the rest of the car. My suitcase was opened and questions asked about a small packet of paracetamol tablets. Inexplicably, the driver’s cache of cigarettes remained intact. I didn’t see a packet exchange hands. Money changed and visa purchased, we entered Jordan.
Before dropping me in the Abdali district, we had one last stop to make. Calling in on his customer by a parade of shops, the cigarettes were painstakingly retrieved from each of their hiding places and the carrier bag eventually handed over in exchange for 24 JD. One very happy old man turned his taxi around and headed back to the border.
The best beach in Haiti
Nothing much happened in a hurry in Port Salut.
The village sprawled beside the soft white sands of Pointe Sable, on Haiti’s southern coast about a half hour from the noisy bustle of Les Cayes. It was no small relief to arrive. My coccyx was numb after a ride in the most cramped and overloaded tap tap I’d had the misfortune to flag down. Not for the first time this trip, I wondered whether my days of travelling like this, eschewing comfort for a more authentic experience, were numbered.
Overloaded tap taps are the only public transport to Port Salut
The half-hour ride had stretched to five times that, delayed by the need to fill the vehicle to three times a sensible capacity, then tie and retie a large assortment of sacks and packages to the roof. Finally, the driver turned over the engine but instead of leaving, we waited while he carried out urgent mechanical work with much tutting coming from under the rusty bonnet. All the while we sweated under a relentless sun, listening to the football on someone’s portable radio. There wasn’t a murmur of complaint; such delays were clearly the norm. These tap taps had once been shiny new pick up trucks, but were now zombified skeletons, shadows of their former selves. Bereft of various body panels they were held together with frayed bits of rope that disintegrated and wafted fibres into my eyes, . Eventually we had left the goats and stray dogs to scavenge in the filthy depot, only to stop a few kilometres down the road at the edge of a rice paddy while the driver acquired sufficient water to cool the already overheated engine and finish the journey.
Missing the unmarked turn off from the main road, I’d been dropped at the far end of the beach road. I told the conductor I needed to find my lodgings.
“Is it far?” I asked in schoolgirl French, unsure if I’d been understood.
A shrug.
“Combien de kilometres?” I tried again. The conductor glanced at his other passengers.
“Cinq, je pense,” came the collective reply.
Inwardly cursing that I’d relied on my own inadequate observation rather than asking the conductor a little earlier, I resigned myself to a long (albeit scenic) trudge laden with luggage. A young man pulled alongside me on a motorbike and offered me a ride. Asking how much, he’d shaken his head and told me he was offering out of kindness. Gratefully, I accepted. Such a willingness to help was common amongst Haitians, I’d found, one of the delights of visiting a place where tourism was at an embryonic stage.
In the end, it was less than a kilometre. Bathed in the soft peach of late afternoon, the Auberge du Rayon Vert – the Inn of the Green Ray – looked as if it had been transported straight from rural France. Dumping my bags, I watched the sun settle languidly into the horizon and headed to the terrace to eat. The menu, chalked carelessly on a board, gave no inkling that the food served was to be the most delicious I’d have anywhere in the country. I feasted on creamy goat’s cheese enclosed by an exquisitely pink fillet of beef. The sky turned to blood orange before I sank into a deep slumber under crisp sheets.
L’Auberge du Rayon Vert
The following morning, I awoke to the sound of the Caribbean lapping at the shore and set off to explore Port Salut. Popular with Haitians from Port au Prince as a weekend retreat, I wasn’t surprised to see half-built houses strung out along the main road which I presumed to be holiday homes in the making. Hot pink bougainvillea made a welcome change from the ubiquitous grey concrete of the building plots and beach shacks.
Bougainvillea
Changing some dollars at the hardware store, I doubled back to the beach. Crudely fashioned dugouts on the sand didn’t look seaworthy. The flaking turquoise paint was photogenically shabby but didn’t appear to my untrained eye to be watertight. Piles of netting heaped in their bows indicated otherwise. A group of fishermen dragged a gnarled wooden boat out of the sea, their scant catch inadequate recompense for their labour.
Old wooden boats in the beach
A little further on, a cluster of beach bars catered to a largely local population. At this hour their plastic chairs and tables were deserted save for a group of men idly chatting into mobile phones. They looked up briefly to say hello. An old man slept soundly on a concrete bench, his forehead deeply lined and his feet calloused. Children giggled and pointed, “Blan, blan!” I smiled back. One of the bars was painted with a colourful mural of tourists waterskiing, which struck me as just about as far removed from reality in this backwater as you could get. Opposite, a six-point guide to cholera prevention on a painted billboard seemed a whole lot more relevant.
Fishing boat on Pointe Sable
Opposite the auberge, another catch was being landed. A group of villagers were hauling in their net, dragging its colourful floats into a horseshoe to corral the fish into an ever diminishing trap. But for all their toil, the results were meagre, a few fish the size of sprats tossed into a wicker basket guarded by a small child.
By far the best thing to do, or more accurately, not do, as it involved very little effort at all, was to relax on one of the hotel’s beach chairs and watch the world go by. This wasn’t an arduous task; there wasn’t much world to go by. The palms that edged the beach swayed almost imperceptibly in the breeze, fidgeting the shade. From my vantage point, I watched as delicate ghost crabs scuttled about their business before retreating from the heat into burrows drilled deep into the damp sand. A trio of avocets tapped away at the water’s edge while a lone pelican cruised overhead.
The perfect place to do nothing
The sun was now high in the sky. A single wisp of cloud hung like a vapid crescent moon. Traffic was limited to a few motos and the odd 4×4 – the auberge was a popular weekend hangout for the UN police and NGO personnel working in the area. Out towards the horizon, a small boat with tattered sails bobbed on a sea pricked with diamonds. The voice of an occasional hawker interrupted the sound of the waves’ ebb and flow, offering straw hats and fresh coconuts. They approached gently as they offered their wares; there was no need to be pushy. A young girl wandered up, carrying a large straw bag.
“Would you like mamba, ma’am?”
For a minute, I was alarmed, fearful she might produce a snake. It turned out mamba was a kind of peanut butter. The large jar being proffered would have been a tempting purchase had it not been made of heavy glass clearly unsuited to moto rides. Eventually, I dozed off under the shade of a tree, its dense bunches of fat leaves creating a natural sun umbrella. After all, nothing much happened in a hurry in Port Salut, so how else was I going to kill time before dinner?
Sunset at Pointe Sable
A beginner’s guide to Dalmatia
Dalmatia is the region of the Adriatic extending from the Croatian town of Zadar in the north down to Kotor, Montenegro in the south. Rising sea levels once drowned the lower parts of glacial valleys leaving a string of islands reminiscent of the spots and splodges on the backs of the dogs which share the region’s name. Long a favourite of the Italians, this beautiful stretch of coastline has become increasingly popular with UK visitors over the past few years, with those in the know finding a Mediterranean holiday at a fraction of the price of more established destinations. The most scenic part of the region links the historic cities of Split and Dubrovnik, so this blog will focus on making a journey between the two.
Getting there
The region is much better connected than it was a decade ago, emphasising the area’s tourist resurgence. British Airways has direct summer season flights to both Split and Dubrovnik, flying to the latter a couple of times a week in winter. The budget airline easyJet flies to Split and Dubrovnik offering flights to the region from Luton, Gatwick, Stansted, Manchester, Newcastle and Bristol. Ryanair serves Zadar. Other airlines operating flights to Split and/or Dubrovnik include Wizz Air, Thomsonfly, Norwegian, Monarch and Jet2. As with BA, there are considerably more flights in summer. To get to the area with Croatia Airlines you’ll need to hub through Zagreb and change planes. For an up to date list of flight schedules, try http://www.visit-croatia.co.uk/index.php/getting-to-croatia/flights-to-croatia-from-the-uk-ireland/.
Getting around
If you’re beginning your trip in the Croatian capital, a train service links Zagreb to Split but even the fast train takes almost six hours – strictly a journey for aficionados. A convenient bus network links the mainland towns. The Visit Croatia website is invaluable and lists the bus companies here http://www.visit-croatia.co.uk/index.php/travelling-around-croatia/bus-travel-in-croatia/. Autotrans offer the facility to make online bookings. A fleet of ferries facilitates island hopping. Taxis are cheap in the region but where the old towns are characterised by labyrinthine alleyways, it’s best to explore on foot.
Narrow streets lend themselves to exploring on foot
What to see
Split
Split is the Adriatic’s main ferry port, its quayside thronging with workers as well as tourists. The city’s residents are always on the go and business is conducted frenetically and noisily. The mild and sunny climate makes for an outdoor cafe culture in all but the depths of winter.
Split has a vibrant cafe culture
Undisputedly, the jewel of Split’s crown is Diocletian’s Palace. Roman emperor Diocletian came here to retire, commissioning an elaborate fortified palace which is now a UNESCO world heritage site. Some time after Diocletian’s death, the palace fell into a state of disrepair, but was seized upon by refugees fleeing from the town of Salona, five kilometres inland and a Roman stronghold thought to be the birthplace of the emperor himself. These new residents added their own fortifications to the palace, building on the original two-metre thick walls, towers and keeps of the original design. Split grew steadily, forging trading links with the interior and was eventually absorbed into the Hungaro-Croatian empire in the eleventh century.
Diocletian’s Palace, by Ballota, courtesy of Wikicommons CC BY-SA 4.0
Now, Diocletian’s Palace blends almost seamlessly with the mediaeval buildings that crowd its western flank. The narrow alleyways beg to be explored at a snail’s pace before heading back to the waterfront Riva to while away the afternoon over a glass or two of wine.
Split
Mostar
It’s worth making a detour inland to the town of Mostar in neighbouring Bosnia-Herzegovina. A three and a half hour bus ride from the coast (see timetables here http://www.buscroatia.com/split-mostar/), pockmarked buildings still bear the scars of the bullets that so recently ripped out its heart. The conflict in 1993 saw the destruction of the town’s iconic Stari Most bridge, a sixteenth century structure spanning the Nevetna River. In peace time, the town’s young daredevils once dived from its ledge outdoing each other in bravado and skill. The bridge was blown up by the Croats. Some say it was destroyed for strategic reasons, but others believe that it was a deliberate act of vandalism intended to enrage.
Mostar, Stari Most
Today, the bridge has been rebuilt, a simple engraved stone acting as a reminder to the futility of war. The streets it connects are lined with souvenir shops, selling tin hats and bullets alongside postcards and nick nacks. This old town district was originally settled by Ottomans and the area has a distinctly Turkish feel. Many of Mostar’s mansions were severely damaged by the shelling, but it’s worth checking out the Muslibegovic House which was miraculously untouched. Owner Tadz, will show you round and offer you a room in this museum-guest house hybrid. Book through online agencies such as booking.com or visit the website http://www.muslibegovichouse.com/.
A poignant reminder of a recent conflict
The islands
The mountains that hem the coastal strip from the interior force the focus out to sea and it’s hard to spend any length of time looking out at the sparkling Adriatic without resisting the urge to hop on a boat. There’s an island for everyone. Šolta, close to Split, is a sleepy place characterised by quiet lanes and yachts bobbing serenely in tiny inlets. Base yourself near the harbour in Maslinica. Neighbouring Brač is perfect for beach lovers; try those at Zlatni Rat, Bol and Supetar. Better known Hvar has a fashionable old town packed with bars and clubs, palaces and chapels, a kind of offshore mini-Dubrovnik without the cruise ships. Known for its olive groves, Korčula offers a similar variety to Hvar but on a smaller scale. Further off the beaten track, if you want to escape the crowds, try the island of Vis, popular with urban escapees from the Croatian capital, Zagreb.
Boats, Dubrovnik harbour
If you’re based in Dubrovnik, the islands of Koločep, Lopud and Šipanhen are all within easy reach. Sold to the city of Dubrovnik in 1333 by the kings of Bosnia, Mljet is do-able as a day trip, but those staying for longer are rewarded with beautiful countryside and much sought after peace and quiet. The west of the island has been designated a national park, the highlights of which are two saltwater lakes framed by pristine woodland. You could even spot a mongoose, imported from India in an attempt to rid Mljet of its persistent snake problems.
Dubrovnik
Get Dubrovnik wrong, and you battle hordes of cruise ship passengers clogging the narrow streets of the Old Town, tacky souvenirs and unappetising food. That’s not to say don’t visit, just do your homework first. Best in spring or summer (avoid January when many business owners take the month off) the crowds ease when the day trippers leave in late afternoon. Restaurants offering al fresco dining tout for custom, but get off the main drag to avoid inflated prices.
Dubrovnik
The city has a long history. Originally settled in the seventh century, it became an important trading post, a neutral port between the Ottomans and the West. The money generated by sales of wool, hides, wheat and even slaves underpinned the city’s cultural development. The Sponza Palace, Rector’s Palace and the fountains designed by Onofrio della Cava are evidence of this building boom.
Rector’s Palace, Dubrovnik
Climb the walls of the fortified Old Town for stunning views across terracotta rooftops to the Adriatic, hidden courtyards revealing themselves to those high enough to peer over their walls. The sea pounds away but is no match for the thick stone that Michelozzo Michelozzi and Juraj Dalmatinac designed to protect the city from the waves. After 1995, war damage was repaired speedily and you’d be forgiven for thinking the city was spared; only newer tiles and patched walls give it away.
A fortified city, Dubrovnik’s thick walls were designed to protect from waves as well as invaders
The compact Old Town is a delight to wander aimlessly, but accommodation is expensive. It’s worth considering renting an apartment or staying just outside the city walls to achieve better value for money. Some people stay in the resorts of Cavtat or Župa Dubrovačka and visit Dubrovnik just for the day, but it’s worth basing yourself in the city for at least part of your stay.
Moving on
The pretty town of Kotor to the south of Dubrovnik across the border in Montenegro lies at the head of a fjord. Like Dubrovnik, it has a sprawling Old Town and a thriving cafe culture.
Kotor
It’s worth taking a boat trip out on the fjord if the weather is fine; there are some pretty churches at the water’s edge. Also, make the effort to climb to the castle at the top of the hill – the views are spectacular on a clear day.
Kotor’s fjord side setting – better luck with the weather than I had!
As a beginner’s guide, this blog post isn’t intended to be complete, but there are lots more resources on the web to help you plan a trip. Try the Croatia traveller site here: http://www.croatiatraveller.com/Dalmatia.htm
For Northern Dalmatia, fly into Zadar and then head out from there. Rough Guides have a comprehensive description on their website here: http://www.roughguides.com/destinations/europe/croatia/northern-dalmatia/
For specific attractions, the Lonely Planet is a good bet. Find the relevant Croatia section here: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/croatia
Finally, for accommodation, I find http://www.booking.com reliable and the reviews generally accurate.
Jacmel carnival, Haiti
Each February, the southern Haitian town of Jacmel celebrates carnival in style. Here’s some photos from yesterday’s event.
Plenty of characters on the street before the main event; this one’s Tonton Bicha
The best place to watch the parade is from the specially constructed wooden balconies on the main street
Colourful dancer getting into the groove
The costumes are amazing
Impressive how much energy they have in the Caribbean heat
Carnival queen
What every well-dressed donkey is wearing this season…
Political comment also has its place
Loving how they’ve tippexed out their grammar mistake
Most of them cleared the jump – except one!
Papier mâché figures are what Jacmel’s known for
Half king, half Santa, this figure is called “Papa Jwif”
The “Yawe” – a cowhide that’s beaten (with some vigour!) in a recreation of a Taino hunting scene
The clacking sound of the wooden wings of the “Mathurin” bat-devils is distinctive
The scariest characters are the “Lanset Kod” – covered in charcoal dust and cane syrup they run amok through the crowds smearing as many people as possible with their gunk
A beginner’s guide to Barcelona
With a two thousand year history and a vibrant culture, it’s no wonder the Mediterranean city of Barcelona is the UK’s undisputed favourite when it comes to Spanish city break destinations. As well as having its own ample stretches of sand, the city is perfectly situated to combine some sightseeing with a beach holiday to the Costa Brava or Costa Dorada. But what should you see on a first visit? Follow my beginner’s guide to this captivating Catalan gem.
La Rambla by Oh-Barcelona.com reproduced under the terms of the Creative Commons licence CC by 2.0
Getting there
A number of airlines fly from the UK to Barcelona, from regional airports as well as London. To give you an idea of the choice available, there are almost 200 direct flights a week from London, on airlines such as British Airways, Iberia, easyJet, Monarch and Vueling. It’s not difficult to pick up a return ticket for as little as £50 (flying with easyJet from Southend at the end of February, price correct at time of writing) but book well in advance for a summer trip as demand is obviously higher.
Getting from the airport
Most flights arrive at Barcelona’s El Prat airport (some Ryanair services fly into Girona) and there is a train service direct into the city. Take the RENFE R2 Cercanias service (the local stopping train, sometimes referred to as Rodalies in Catalan) as far as Passeig de Gracia. Tickets cost 4,10 euros and there’s no need to buy a ticket in advance. Alternatively there’s an airport bus costing 5,90 euros which takes on average about a half hour to reach the city centre. You can buy tickets online in advance here http://www.aerobusbcn.com/en/buy-tickets or just pay cash to the driver. Expect to pay up to 40 euros for a taxi from the airport to the city centre.
Getting around
The Barcelona metro is extensive and easy to use, though as with any busy city, take care of your belongings and ensure bags are zipped or fastened securely.
LlefiàL10 by Javierito92, licensed under CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
A single ride on the metro (or bus) costs 2,15 euros but if you are planning on taking five or more journeys then you could buy a T10 card costing 9,95 euros which covers you for ten journeys over a year (i.e. there’s no need to use all ten on the same day). If you make a journey and change lines without exiting the metro, then that counts as one ride, so long as your total journey time is under 75 minutes. Multi-day travel cards are available, giving you two days’ unlimited travel for 14 euros for instance. 3, 4 and 5 day cards are also offered. Check current prices here:
http://www.tmb.cat/en/barcelona-travel-card
Alternatively, you might consider the Barcelona card. This is a tourist pass offering free transport (including the airport train but not the express airport bus), free or discounted admission to some tourist attractions and discounts in some restaurants and shops. It costs 45 euros for a three-day pass. Examples of free attractions (correct at the time of writing but check on arrival) include the Botanical Gardens and Museum of Modernism. Do your homework; work out what you might like to see and total up the cost – as with all these cards, you need to use it a lot to make it worth your while. A full list of discounts is found here:
For a first-time visitor who perhaps is less confident about using public transport, I’d recommend a hop on, hop off sightseeing bus. Barcelona is a city of over 4 million people and therefore its sights are scattered over a wide area. Although there is a lot to see in a fairly small downtown area, if you wish to see some of the more far-flung attractions it’s easier to catch the sightseeing bus. It’s more expensive than public transport, with a one day ticket costing 24,30 euros if purchased online and a two day ticket about 10 euros more. Their informative website can be found here: https://www.barcelonabusturistic.cat/en/home and provides details of routes, prices and current schedules.
Where to stay
I stayed at the Hotel Duquesa de Cardona, a luxury boutique hotel on the waterfront close to the Columbus statue at the end of La Rambla and a short walk from the aquarium. Its beautifully appointed rooms can cost as little as £75 a night for a double in low season, but the convenient location and excellent service mean that it does sell out in peak periods. The W chain are represented in Barcelona at Plaça de la Rosa dels Vents by Barceloneta beach. The hotel’s 473 rooms feature funky décor and both its pool terrace and 26th floor Eclipse bar afford stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea. On a tighter budget, try the Chic and Basic Ramblas, under £50 per night but only a stone’s throw from La Rambla, or for around £20 more, the Hotel Sant Agustí, a converted convent near to the Plaça Reial. The building dates from 1720 and has been a hotel since 1840, making it one of the city’s oldest.
What to see
Antoni Gaudi’s work
Sagrada Familia nave roof detail by SBA73, licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
If there’s one name that is synonymous with Barcelona, it’s that of Antoni Gaudi, the architect responsible for the as yet unfinished Sagrada Familia church. This elaborately constructed church was begun in 1882, consecrated by Pope Benedict XVI in 2010 but is unlikely to be complete until at least 2026. George Orwell was not a fan, branding it one of the world’s most hideous buildings, but millions of impressed visitors beg to differ. It’s definitely worth a look.
Gaudi’s architecture can be found elsewhere in the city. Slightly north of Barcelona’s city centre in the Gràcia district, it’s worth making a special effort to pay a visit to Parc Güell. Another of Antoni Gaudi’s bonkers creations, as you’d expect its planting is interspersed by wacky benches, columns and platforms featuring the architect’s trademark mosaic tiling. The extraordinary Parc Güell now charges admission, but is a must-see.
Casa Milà, better known as La Pedrera, is another building bearing the hallmarks of the architect’s unique style. Its odd chimneys are classic Gaudi. I also loved Casa Batlló which Gaudi redesigned in 1904. Once a family home and now a UNESCO world heritage sight, it’s unique, quirky and delightful, both inside and out. The entrance fee is a bit steep but looking at the exterior is free.
Casa Batlló
La Rambla
This single street is possibly the most famous in the city. For this reason, it has to figure in your itinerary but be warned, it’s also a popular stomping ground for pickpockets and scammers. This pedestrian thoroughfare is crammed with souvenir vendors, street performers, human statues and, at night, prostitutes. It features a mosaic created by the artist Joan Miró, located near the Liceu metro station. If you look closely, you’ll be able to spot his signature on one of the tiles. A museum dedicated to his work can be found at Montjuïc. The street also has a selection of restaurants but you’d do better heading off the street and away from the crowds.
Montjuïc
This hill overlooking the city literally translates as “the hill of the Jews”. Getting up there is half the fun. Head up by funicular and then take the Port Vell aerial tramway back down to the waterfront at Barceloneta. At the top, there’s a whole load of things to do. As well as the Fundació Miró, Montjuïc
is also home to the Museu d’Arqueologia, the Museu Etnològic and the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya-MNAC, housed in the impressive Palau Nacional. In addition you’ll find the Magic Fountain and the artisan village at Poble Espanyol, both built for the 1929 International Exhibition.
Parc Montjuïc by Canaan, reproduced under the Creative Commons licence CC BY-SA 3.0
Barri Gòtic
Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter is its old town, linking La Rambla to the Mediterranean seafront. Many of the buildings of this area date from mediaeval times, though there was extensive modernisation and renovation in the 19th and early 20th century. One of the area’s most popular attractions is the Picasso Museum. Suggested by the artist himself back in 1960, Barcelona is a fitting choice for the museum; although Picasso was born in Malaga, he spent his teenage years in the city before moving to Paris in his twenties. The five buildings that house a collection of 3500 of his earlier works are as much an attraction as the art itself – Palau Aguilar, Palau del Baró de Castellet and Palau Meca date back to the 14th century.
The Barri Gòtic is a fabulous area in which to wander, with alleyways linking attractive squares, my favourite being the Plaça Reial. This palm-filled square provides respite from the heat of the summer sun; in my opinion there’s no better place in the whole of the city to sip a coffee and people-watch. As with other touristy areas, keep a close eye on your belongings.
Barcelona – Plaça Reial by Josep Renalias, licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Camp Nou
For football fans, there’s only one unmissable attraction in the city – Barcelona’s Camp Nou stadium, home to Futbol Club Barcelona, or Barça to its adoring fans. It is possible to take tours of the stadium. Visit the FCB Museum, walk down the players’ tunnel and out onto the pitch, stand in the dressing room and see behind the scenes in areas such as the press room.
Camp Nou colours by DJ Lucifer, licensed under CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Something for the evening
Cava is to Spain as champagne is to France, and the most atmospheric place in town to drink the stuff is at El Xampanyet. This small bar has a take me as you find me vibe, with a mixed clientele of locals and visitors. The tiled walls and tasty tapas have barely changed since the place opened back in 1929. Its location on Carrer de Montcada in El Born district, is within an easy stroll of the cathedral and Parc de la Ciutadella, and perfect for a few glasses before dinner in the Old Town.
El Xampanyet
Just back from – a day trip to Amsterdam
Is an Amsterdam day trip viable? In the second of an occasional series, I test whether it’s really worth making the effort for just a single day’s visit to this popular Dutch city. Would I regret not paying for a hotel room as I dashed from attraction to attraction?
Amsterdam’s canals
Logistics
I chose to fly from London’s Southend airport, around an hour from Central London but only a short drive from my Essex home. Southend, though expanding, is still a small airport, making it possible to transit the airport in just a few minutes – none of the long queues for security or marathon hikes to the gate that characterise Britain’s larger airports. easyJet fly out to Amsterdam at 7.30am and back at 6pm, making a short day out a cheap possibility. It’s wise to note that easyJet fly into a satellite terminal at Schipol, making for a tidy walk to the gate for your return flight. But they have a good track record for punctuality and my outbound flight was on time. On the return leg, we landed early and thanks to the time difference, I was back in my kitchen feeding the dogs their dinner almost before I should have left Schipol. (Don’t worry about them, we have doggie day care for such occasions.)
Getting into the city
Having made it across the airport without getting distracted by the many shops and even a branch of the Rijksmuseum (Schipol has got to be the best airport in Europe, don’t you think?) I exited through self-service passport control leaving the tulip bulb purchases for my return. Keep straight on as you exit customs for the train station, the quickest way into central Amsterdam. Directly in front of you are bright yellow ticket machines which take cash and cards. A single ticket into the city costs 5,10 euros with a 0,50 euro surcharge for using a credit card; UK issued cards work fine. It’s worth noting, though, that they take coins and not notes if you wish to pay cash. Make a left and head for the train; it’s a quick fifteen minute ride into the city. Trains leave frequently for Amsterdam Centraal Station immediately to the north of the main city. I waited one minute for a train and was walking Amsterdam’s streets by 10am.
Centraal Station
Getting around
The city centre of Amsterdam is compact and unless it’s raining, it’s a pleasant experience to wander the back streets and canal side paths on foot. You’ll need eyes in the back of your head, though, to avoid being run over by a bicycle. The city has dedicated cycle lanes but it’s all too easy to forget where the pavement ends if you’re trying to take a photo. If you hire a bike yourself, it’s customary to ring your bell rather than mutter profanities at wayward pedestrians obsessed with getting the perfect selfie.
For longer distances, the easiest method of getting around the city is by tram. Single rides cost 2,90 euros and the ticket is valid for an hour. Tap the ticket on the reader as you are given it to activate it. If you are likely to make more than three journeys, it’s worth your while buying a day pass, costing 7,50 euros. Tap in and out each time you ride.
Cheese!
What did I do?
I’ve been to Amsterdam before, so decided to give the big museums and the Anne Frank House a miss this time. If you are making a first visit then you should really consider staying a few days to give you time to do the sights justice. Queues for the Anne Frank house are frequently long (even on a Monday in January!) so if you do want to go, and you should, plan to make this first on your day’s agenda when you visit.
I made for the Begijnhof instead. It’s an easy walk from Centraal Station – cross over the canal and head down Damrak, the main drag. Damrak is tourist central, but you can arrange everything from canal boats to bicycle hire here and buy souvenirs tackier than you’ve ever imagined. From Dam Square, continue down Kalverstraat (almost as bad as Damrak) until you get to Spui.
The Begijnhof
Accessed through a wooden door, a passageway with impressive vaulted ceilings leads through to an enclosed square, the Begijnhof. Women have lived on this site since 1150, primarily to care for the sick. By the fourteenth century, the place had become a nunnery, the women referred to as “beguines”. Taking pride of place in this inner courtyard is the church. The Begijnhof is also the site of one of only two surviving timber buildings in the city, this one dating from 1528. Visitors can access half the square, so long as they keep off the well-manicured lawns; the rest is for residents only. Entrance is free, though donations to the church are welcomed.
The Begijnhof is around the corner from the Bloemenmarkt, on the Singel, which claims to be the only floating flower market in the world. Don’t worry if you haven’t timed your visit for spring, even in winter the stalls are a riot of colour, selling cut flowers and bulbs. The packaged bulbs are aimed squarely at the tourist market – locals make a beeline for the loose bulbs as they’re considerably cheaper.
Tulips from Amsterdam
Next, I set about exploring the area known as “De Negen Straatjes” – the nine streets. This is an area bisected by canals from the Singel to the Prinsengracht and gentrification has resulted in a wealth of designer boutiques, gift shops and art galleries that lend themselves to ambling. This is not a district to walk with a purpose, more an area in which to potter and dither before recharging your batteries in a cafe. Forget Starbucks – though there are plenty – a canal side coffee shop is the way to go. I recommend the Koffee Huis “De Hoek”, a far cry from the smoky cannabis cafes for which Amsterdam is better known. Try their cheese and ham pancake washed down with proper freshly- squeezed orange juice and bag a window seat for brunch with a view.
Off licence, Nine Streets
Continuing along Prinsengracht, and just past Westermarkt I passed the long queue for the Anne Frank House. Further along on the opposite side of the canal is an interesting little museum devoted to tulips. Behind the extensive gift shop and down a steep flight of steps, a series of small interconnecting rooms tell the history of this iconic Dutch flower, which you’ll soon learn, isn’t Dutch at all. In fact, it is native to Asia (who knew?) and it was the Ottomans who introduced the flower to the Netherlands in the sixteenth century. They soon became fashionable, with growers competing to see who could produce the most sought after bloom. Speculators moved in on the industry and soon bulbs with the right “pedigree” were changing hands for crazy sums of money, with some selling for twenty times the annual salary of the average Amsterdam resident at the time. Out of control, the market crashed in 1637 and it was to take a further 200 years to steadily rebuild it. Fortunately, the prices of tulips are far more reasonable today, as is the 5 euro entrance fee.
The Tulip Museum
Back at the Westerkerk, I jumped on a number 14 tram heading east to my second museum of the day – the Dutch Resistance Museum. This absorbing museum recounts the experiences of the Netherlands from 14 May 1940 to 5 May 1945, the period when the country was occupied by Nazi Germany. As well as resistance, the museum explains how people chose different paths in coping with the invasion – some collaborated, some fought back. The exhibition covers all forms of resistance: going on strike, forging documents, helping people to go into hiding, publishing underground newspapers, maintaining escape routes, and even armed resistance and espionage. Entrance costs 10 euros which I thought was good value for money. Take the free audio set that’s offered as it unlocks a series of explanations in English; the exhibits are all signed in dual language but some of the text is on the small size. A short film puts the museum in context, in kid-friendly language, and there’s a special children’s section to the museum as well. Families, this is your part of town – Artis zoo’s just across the street.
Dutch Resistance Museum
All that history had made me thirsty (and my back ache) so sinking into a chair in the Cafe Koosje on the corner of Kerklaan and Plantage Middenlaan came as a welcome relief. The hot chocolate topped, of course, with a generous dollop of cream and the friendly wait staff made this a good place to take a break.
It was time to head back to the centre for some shopping and my mind was on food. Taking the number 14 tram back to Waterlooplein, I walked to Staalstraat where I’d read about a foodie’s paradise at number 20. Het Hanze Huis is crammed full of European foods, from syrups to flavoured tea, chocolate to tasty biscuits. Mouth already watering, I decided to continue by number 24 tram (tram-hopping like a local!) to the market on Albert Cuypstraat. A mix of market tat, food trucks and cheese stalls, this place is definitely worth a visit. I stocked up on Stroopwafels, a family favourite, from a charming man who posed happily for a photo. Bag full, I had to pass on the Gouda cheese, but figured I could at least get that in Sainsbury’s.
The Stroopwafel man
Heading back to the centre on the number 4 tram, my final stop was to a pub with no bar. I’d come across De Pilsener Club, located on Begijnensteeg, via several bloggers on the net. The pub’s nickname is De Engelse Reet, which apparently translates as “The English Ass”. Perfect, I thought. After all today’s walking I need a seat for my own ass. According to what I read, the pub has been in business since the end of the nineteenth century. It’s been in the current owner’s family for four generations (I read that they all share the same first name, so that’s four men called Tuen Van Veen) and they don’t like change. Stepping over the threshold is like travelling back in time, with sanded floorboards and tables pockmarked through years of use. Given the early hour (for a pub, anyway) I expected to have to drink alone, but two tables were occupied when I walked in and by the time I left, it was full. It seems it’s a very popular meeting place in the late afternoon for Amsterdam’s over 60s.
De Engelse Reet
The lowdown
As with Lisbon, I pre-planned my itinerary in order to minimise the chances of wasting time arriving somewhere that’s not yet opened up for the day or unnecessarily backtracking across town. Both times I’ve been fully prepared to ditch things as the day goes on, but was once again surprised by how much I ended up doing. I’ll admit, Amsterdam has never been one of my favourite cities, but I wanted to prove to myself that I could find a city I love within a tourist city I really don’t. A bit of extra research this time uncovered parts of Amsterdam that were a whole lot more rewarding than the Red Light District, tacky souvenir shops and mainstream museums I might otherwise have felt obliged to visit.
I also made good use of the Travel Telegraph’s app, and grew increasingly fond of its “favourites” capability and very functional zoomable map – particularly helpful as my paper map began to disintegrate in the drizzle. Because of the shorter flight time and the exceptionally quick train connection, having a later outbound flight and earlier inbound flight wasn’t an issue, though I could quite happily have holed up in De Engelse Reet and made a night of it. Next time that’s where you’ll find me, though perhaps I’ll get Tuen Van Veen to serve me up a couple of hard boiled eggs to soak up the Heineken.
A beginner’s guide to Iceland
Updated Spring 2022
Iceland’s fortunes are looking up. Years have passed since the volcanic eruption that resulted in flight chaos throughout the northern hemisphere. Post-economic crash and coping admirably with the fallout from the coronavirus pandemic, Iceland is fully open for business.
Iceland’s scenery is dramatic and beautiful
How to get there from the UK
Flights with BA and also Icelandair, the national carrier, depart from London Heathrow to Keflavik (KEF), the airport nearest to the Icelandic capital Reykjavik. Budget airlines also serve Keflavik. easyJet offer a good service from London Luton and London Gatwick, while Play operates out of London Stansted. A non-stop flight takes a little over 3 hours from London. There are also flights from Manchester and Edinburgh. Icelandair offers fares to North America with Reykjavik as a stopover destination for the same fare making it possible to combine an Icelandic break of 1 to 7 days with cities such as New York.
Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon
Getting from Keflavik airport into the city centre
The simplest and cheapest way to get to Reykjavik is to use the FlyBus. This bus will take you from the airport to either the bus station or to some hotels. To find out whether yours is served, there’s a list on the FlyBus website – check Google maps if yours isn’t listed to identify which listed hotel is closest. Single fares to the bus station are 3499 ISK (about £21) and to your hotel 4599 ISK (about £28). The journey takes 45 minutes, there’s free Wi-Fi on board and tickets are flexible, so if your plane is late, you just take the next available bus. There are frequent departures throughout the day and evening.
If you are travelling as a larger group or further afield, you may prefer to hire a car. The easiest way to do this is to book with one of several car hire companies based at the airport. I’ve used Thrifty a couple of times now. They’re not the cheapest but the cars are reasonably new and the rates are competitive. Note that you’ll need special insurance if you plan to drive off road or on some of the interior’s gravel roads (note: the latter are closed during the winter). It’s also advisable to take out an insurance policy that covers you for damage caused by sand (especially if you plan to travel along the south coast) or gravel. You might be a careful driver but there’s nothing you can do to mitigate against those travelling at speed who pass you from the opposite direction.
Icelandic fishing villages such as Olafsvik are charming
Getting around
If you’ve chosen not to hire a car, it is possible to use public buses to travel between some parts of the country. Check schedules carefully as it can be a long wait between buses. Consult this useful map of the main long distance routes in Iceland to see at a glance whether the places you plan to visit are connected or not. Alternatively, use a company such as Reykjavik Excursions which can offer day or multi-day tours. They can also sell you a ticket for a summer-only bus up to Landmannalaugar in the highlands.
Seljalandsfoss
Reykjavik
The Icelandic capital is charming and a good base for the first time visitor. Pay a visit to the unusual Hallgrímskirkja church; it’s only 1200 ISK to go up it and take in the views of the city. Also great for the views though a little out of the centre is Perlan; it features an excellent Áróra Northern Lights planetarium show and now also has a double zipline. The area around Tjörnin lake is worth a stroll if the weather’s good; it’s not far from the main drag and is popular with joggers. Down by the harbour there’s a cool structure known as Sun Voyager or ‘Sólfar’ which is worth making the effort to visit; walk past Harpa, the city’s concert hall and along to the Old Harbour for a pleasant walk. In the opposite direction, you’ll come to Höfði House where Reagan and Gorbachev met in 1986 to begin the process of ending the Cold War.
The Sun Voyager statue, Reykjavik
Must-see attractions beyond the capital
Reykjanes
The Blue Lagoon is a world-renowned spa consisting of a large pool fed by geothermally-heated water. It’s possible to book massages and other treatments; even if you just want a dip you’ll need to pre-book (evening slots are cheapest). There’s also a bar if you’d like a drink whilst relaxing in the warm water. Pots of white silica-rich mud are yours to try out – spread it on your face and body for an enriching treatment. Tip: in cold weather, turn left on your way out and enter the pool indoors before swimming out – it’s warmer than making a run for it from the main door. It’s possible to visit the Blue Lagoon on your way to or from Keflavik airport and lockers large enough to take a suitcase are available. The Blue Lagoon is the main attraction on the Reykjanes peninsula where the North American and European plates meet. With your own transport you can stand on Leif the Lucky’s bridge that straddles the two – but be warned, it’s one of the windiest places in the country.
The Blue Lagoon
The Golden Circle
The Golden Circle comprises three of Iceland’s most awe-inspiring attractions: Gullfoss waterfall, Haukadalur and Þingvellir, the site of the original Icelandic parliament. One of Iceland’s many dramatic waterfalls, Gullfoss is the spot where the Hvítá river rushes south and plunges into a chasm where the water explodes into a maelstrom of white water and eroded rock. At nearby Haukadalur, the original geyser, Geysir, has long since given up erupting, but the plume of water that spurts from nearby Strokkur is impressive and conveniently frequent. The Alþingi, or parliament, met at Þingvellir from 930 to 1798 and thus the site is important culturally and historically in addition to its stunning physical characteristics. The three sites can be combined on a morning or afternoon organised tour departing from Reykjavik, but it is worth spending more time at each than the tour allows. If you do decide to go it alone, consider stopping at the excellent Laugarvatn Fontana spa where they bake rye bread in the hot sand twice a day. Spa admission costs 3950 ISK per person (about £24) and the bread baking, including tasting, is 2300 ISK (about £14).
Strokkur on the verge of blowing
The Snæfellsnes peninsula
The Snæfellsnes peninsula is ignored by many but is a worthwhile day out. It’s a remote peninsula with a dramatic coastline perfect for a scenic drive. Its expanses of countryside are punctuated by small fishing villages including the charming Olafsvik. The Hollywood film “The Secret Life of Walter Mitty” was filmed here, focusing on the village of Stykkishólmur whose centre is crammed with historic buildings. Another highlight is the Shark Museum at Bjarnarhöfn. There you can find out how the Icelandic delicacy of hákarl is created and, if you’re brave enough, try a cube of this dried rotted shark flesh for yourself.
Trying hákarl, rotted shark meat
The south coast
Take the southern ring road towards Vik and you will come across two impressive waterfalls. Skógafoss waterfall has an impressive 60 metre drop, but for sheer drama, my choice is the beautiful Seljalandsfoss waterfall. Climb up the wooden staircase to the right of the falls as you face them and the path takes you behind the curtain of water. You will get wet but it’s a lot of fun. In Skaftafell, don’t miss the glorious sight of Svartifoss, an impressive waterfall flanked by basalt columns. To ride nearby, see my post about Glacier Horses. On a secluded ash-grey beach (once accessible by 4×4 but now accessed only on foot) is the wreck of a plane. Near Vik, the DC3 crashed back in 1973 with no loss of life, and the plane has been there, abandoned, ever since. It’s worth the five mile round trip walk over the volcanic sand to see this curious and fascinating wreck but allow plenty of time to return before sunset. Just before you reach Vik, keep an eye out for the notorious sneaker waves as you visit Reynisfjara beach. In Vik itself, meet up with the guide from Katlatrack and don helmet and crampons for one of their ice cave tours up on Mýrdalsjökull. Their three hour fast track tour costs 19,900 ISK per person (about £121) but although it’s expensive it’s worth every penny.
The crashed DC3 near Vik
Jökulsárlón
Situated on the edge of Vatnajökull National Park, itself a fun destination if you’d like to try out snowmobiling on Europe’s largest glacier, Jökulsárlón is a large glacial lake in the south west of Iceland. As the Breiðamerkurjökull calves into the lake, icebergs travel the short distance to the Atlantic Ocean where they bob about on the waves, washed on and off the beach until they finally melt. It’s a magical place; though both the beach and the lagoon itself can get crowded. In summer, it’s possible to take a boat trip. The best value tour is on an amphibious vehicle which gets you close to some of the icebergs for 6000 ISK per person (about £36), but you’ll get closer to the glacier if you pay the extra for the Zodiac tour. Just west is the sometimes overlooked Fjallsárlón. It too has icebergs and boat trips though it’s not quite as impressive as its more famous neighbour.
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
Austurland
East Iceland receives far fewer visitors than the popular south, but there are some breathtaking sights there too. A couple of the coastal villages stand out. You might recognise Seyðisfjörður for the rainbow path leading to its pretty church; it’s accessed by a tarmac road as this is also the place to jump on a ferry to Denmark or the Faroe Islands. In contrast the road to Borgarfjörður eystri, another of the area’s spectacular fjords, winds up and over a mountain pass. For an off the beaten track retreat, the Blabjorg Guesthouse with its open air hot tubs overlooking the water is a great choice. The east’s most unmissable sight is a relative newcomer: until a nearby hydro-electric plant was built which held back the water, the breathtaking Stuðlagil Canyon was hidden to the world.
Stuðlagil Canyon
The Diamond Circle
North Iceland’s answer to the well-established Golden Circle launched officially as a marketing concept in September 2020 but travellers have been drawn to its attractions for much longer. Base yourself in the delightful port town of Húsavík, where you can visit the excellent whale museum and then head out into Skjálfandi bay to see if you can spot them for yourself with a company such as North Sailing. They offer tours for a reasonable 10990 ISK (about £67) with a 98% chance of a sighting. The other four stops on the Diamond Circle are Goðafoss waterfall, Mývatn (Midge Lake – in summer it lives up to its name!), Ásbyrgi canyon and last but not least Dettifoss waterfall, the largest in Europe. This part of Iceland is geothermal; take advantage of that naturally occurring hot water with a dip at GeoSea in Húsavík or the Mývatn Nature Baths. Reservations are advised for both, especially in peak season. Further west, detour off the ring road for a visit to Siglufjörður. This charming town made its money on processing herring; today, the old industrial buildings have been converted into a fascinating museum (2200 ISK per person, about £13).
Humpback whale near Húsavík
The north west
The north west of Iceland and in particular the remote Westfjords are often missed by visitors. From Akureyri, Iceland’s second city, the road east is relatively quiet. The old turf buildings at Glaumbær are interesting to explore and well priced at 1700 ISK (about £10). Make a detour to visit the Icelandic Seal Center in Hvammstangi (admission 1200 ISK (abotu £7). Note that it is closed during the winter. Afterwards, head north to see if you can spot seals at Illugastaðir or Hvítserkur – the latter is also worth a stop for its magnificent sea stack. Ísafjörður is the capital of the sparsely populated Westfjords and even has its own brewery. From here you can take a boat trip with Borea Adventures to Hornstrandir in the hope of spotting Arctic foxes (sightings not guaranteed); there’s a few stuffed ones in a museum just outside Ísafjörður itself. Detour to Flateyri to Iceland’s oldest bookstore, or to Holmavik to visit the quirky but creepy Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft. Another excursion is to Simbahöllin in Thingeyri, which does fabulous waffles in summer. To feel like you’ve reached the end of the world try Patreksfjörður, a fish processing settlement within easy reach of the attractive Rauðasandur – a distinctive red sand beach – and the Látrabjarg bird cliffs. It’s also handy for the ferry to Stykkishólmur in Snæfellsnes.
Glaumbær – The old turf farm
Practical information
It’s possible to loop the ring road in about a week but you’ll be pleased that you allowed more time, at least ten days and two weeks if you can manage. Roads outside the mountainous interior still vary a lot; the ring road is tarmacked and aside from the occasional blind hill and many one-lane bridges, you’ll have no issues at all in fine weather. Keep abreast of local weather conditions online and don’t underestimate the impact of wind speeds. Another invaluable website is that showing road surfaces; gravel roads are generally simple to drive unless they are very steep, though you’ll appreciate the extra grip of a 4×4. The interior shuts in the autumn and doesn’t reopen until late spring; most of its F roads require a high clearance 4×4.
Tips for getting the best out of a trip to New York City
There’s so much to see in the Big Apple so making sense of it all as a first time visitor can be daunting. Here’s what I’ve learned:
Use the subway
Getting around in New York’s traffic can be hell so why waste your precious time sitting in traffic? Instead take the subway. A one week MetroCard costs $30 plus a $1 fee to buy the card. Tip: save your card and take it with you on your next holiday – the card is reusable. Standard fare per journey is $2.75 so you don’t have to use it much over a week to get your money’s worth. Check out the MTA tourist’s guide here: http://web.mta.info/metrocard/tourism/index.html.
Essex Street subway station
Both JFK and Newark airports, serving UK carriers, are located out of Manhattan – JFK is out in Queens and Newark is over in New Jersey. Both take a similar amount of time to reach. If you are offered a coach or shuttle connection to the airport as part of a package, think carefully as to whether to take it – journey times are often double that of the subway or Long Island Rail Road, especially at rush hour. Note that if you take the subway or LIRR to JFK you’ll need to connect to the AirTrain which requires an extra ticket (a $5 fare). In the city, look to see whether you can take an express train; for longer journeys (e.g. Upper West Side to Battery Park) these can be considerably quicker. But at busy periods, you might have a better chance of getting a seat (or even getting on!) if you take the local. Print off a map from http://web.mta.info/maps/submap.html or download a free app so that you can ensure you don’t go whizzing past your stop.
See NYC’s museums and attractions free of charge
Time your visit right and you could save a ton of money. Many of New York’s premier attractions offer free entry at particular times of the week, so before you consider buying a tourist pass, work out which attractions you want to visit and when you can see them for nothing. For example, up in the Bronx, the Zoo offers free entry on a Wednesday, though some exhibits charge an additional fee, such as the excellent Congo Gorilla Forest.
Bears playing in the Bronx Zoo
The nearby Botanical Gardens offers free entry on the same day, so combining the two makes sense. The city’s top museums are also free some of the time – try the 9/11 Memorial and Museum on Tuesdays after 5pm (reservations recommended) and the Museum of Modern Art between 4 and 8pm every Friday. For a fuller list, check out http://www.nycgo.com/articles/free-nyc-museums and double check things haven’t changed just prior to your visit.
Go local and eat at a food cart
Some of the best food in New York can be found at the city’s food trucks. Famous burger chain Shake Shack started from a cart in Madison Square Park back in 2000.
Shake Shack, near the Brooklyn Bridge
No matter what your favourite type of food, there’s a truck to suit. Try Calexico, a Cal-Mex eatery with a range of restaurant locations and carts scattered across lower Manhattan and Brooklyn, including the Flat Iron and SoHo. Schnitzel and Things brings an American twist to German food and again shifts from place to place; follow them at http://www.schnitzelandthings.com/ to find out whether they’ll be near you. If you’d rather try something from the US, then I have a couple of recommendations. Shorty’s on Wheels is the mobile offering from Philly cheesesteak provider Shorty’s – check out its website http://www.shortysnyc.com/truck-schedule.php for the week’s locations as the vehicle moves on a daily basis. Luke’s Lobster have a number of restaurants scattered across the city bringing a taste of New England (think clam chowder, crab and lobster rolls) but they go mobile via the Nauti Mobile. Find them here: http://lukeslobster.com/nauti and check out their scrumptious menu.
Get off Manhattan
There’s so much to do and see that it is tempting to limit yourself to Manhattan, but that would be a pity. On a summer’s weekend, there are few places better than Governor’s Island. Take the ferry from southern Manhattan, rent a bicycle and enjoy fabulous views of the New York skyline from two wheels without having to worry about traffic. Over in Brooklyn, the neighbourhood of Williamsburg contains a clutch of great shops (and eateries) centred on Bedford Avenue including the Goorin Bros. hat shop, the Bedford Cheese Shop and the delightful Red Pearl, a boutique selling clothes, jewellery and gifts: http://shop.redpearlbrooklyn.com/. If you have enough time to venture further afield, take a Metro North train out of Grand Central and visit the quaint town of Rye or, a little further on, Old Greenwich, one of Connecticut’s prettiest little towns and home to the Sweet Pea’s Baking Company: http://sweetpeasct.com/.
Sweet Pea’s Baking Co, Old Greenwich
Down by the Clyde…
A pleasant stroll under a winter sun along the Clyde in Glasgow:
Dock crane and Clyde Arc, known locally as the Squinty Bridge
The Finnieston crane
Bell’s Bridge
The Armadillo as seen from Bell’s Bridge
Glasgow Tower reflected in Glasgow Science Centre
Julia’s Guide to New York Part 3: Manhattan East
Begin at Canal Street. Head along Canal and into Chinatown. My favourite parts are around Mott and Mulberry but the whole area is interesting just to see how different it is from other nearby areas. I can never suppress a snigger when I pass Mei Dick barbers. Vietnamese businesses are slowly colonising parts of Chinatown and of course it has Starbucks et al, but it remains a very Chinese neighbourhood. It’s also a great place to pick up a bargain I ♥ NY T-shirt or Hoodie. Haggle hard!
Shopping in Chinatown is never dull
Next, take the J or Z subway (brown) to Essex and Delancey. Head across the street to Orchard Street and visit the Lower East Side Tenement museum. By European standards this isn’t old, but it is for Manhattan and the room sets give a clear picture of what life would have been like for garment workers in this district back in the 19th Century. Architecturally it’s very interesting inside too as some of the rooms are in their original condition complete with years of peeling wallpaper. You can book in advance at www.tenement.org and there are various tours you can book onto which give you a themed talk into an aspect of tenement life that appeals. It really does bring history to life and helps you understand the context of the buildings.
Cross the street and head for 205 East Houston Street, in particular Katz’s deli. This old Jewish deli has been there for years; it’s a New York institution. The food is amazing; the setting is humble. I can recommend the pastrami on rye and you should also taste the knish. Wash it down with an egg cream. This was the setting for the famous fake orgasm scene in When Harry Met Sally but as you’ll see from the many pictures that adorn the walls, this is a favourite of many celebrities and politicians as well as the NYPD and FDNY.
“I’ll have what she’s having!”
Two of my favourite squares are a short walk from each other. Take the subway to Union Square which has a thriving farmers’ market every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. It began in 1976 with a few farmers and the number of stallholders has grown steadily to around 140 today. North of Union Square at 23rd Street is Madison Square Park, alongside which you’ll find the triangular Flat Iron Building which dates from 1902.
North via the subway again at 42nd Street is what’s been termed the greatest railway terminal in the world: Grand Central station. It certainly outshines Liverpool Street at rush hour. This building is spectacular on a sunny day when the light shafts in through the windows, rivalling nature’s crepuscular rays. Walk across 42nd Street and pass the Chrysler Building. You can’t go up, but the building is worth a look nevertheless.
The Chrysler Building
Keep heading towards the river for a look at the United Nations Building (44th Street and 1st Avenue). You can book guided tours which are interesting, with the disarmament exhibits particularly poignant. It is necessary to pre-book tickets at http://visit.un.org/wcm/content/site/visitors/home/plan and as with the Statue of Liberty and the Empire State you do have security screening for which you need to allow time.
At 59th Street and Lexington, you’ll find Bloomingdales. Buy a Little Brown Bag and walk a block up to 60th Street. Serendipity 3 is a cute cafe featuring as its signature drink frozen hot chocolate, located at 225 East 60th Street. From there, head for the Roosevelt Island tramway. There isn’t a lot to see on Roosevelt Island itself but this tiny cable car is worth a ride in itself for the view back to Manhattan. Metro cards are accepted. Website http://rioc.ny.gov/tramtransportation.htm has the schedule.
Museum Mile is an integral part of the Upper East Side and my two favourites are both alongside Central Park. The Guggenheim is an amazing building for its architecture, all white curves of loveliness. Frank Lloyd Wright designed this building; if I’m honest, it fascinates me more than the exhibits inside but this is a must-see on your itinerary. Find out about the current exhibits at http://www.guggenheim.org/new-york. Up at 103rd Street is the Museum of the City of New York. Overlooked by many visitors, it tells the story of New York’s growth over time via a must-see film. Exhibits change, but will stay in your mind. A permanent fixture is the Activist New York display, featuring campaigns that range from anti-slavery to the suffragette movement, artefacts such as the Gay Bob doll and changing attitudes to the preservation of historic buildings. While you’re up here, it’s worth crossing the road into Central Park to see its only formal space, the Conservatory Garden, and Harlem Meer.
Museum of New York City
For dinner, head into Spanish Harlem. A block north of Tito Puente Way, a street named in honour of the outstanding Latino musician though I couldn’t find a plaque, I dined at Amor Cubano. It’s Cuban, obviously, though much around it is Puerto Rican. The food is delicious, the welcome familial and the atmosphere enhanced by live music. Camaradas el Barrio, a couple of blocks away, offers the best Puerto Rican food in the area and again has live music most evenings. But if you want to follow in the footsteps of Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Tony Bennett, then there’s only one place to go. Patsy’s Pizzeria has been a favourite since it first opened its First Avenue doors back in 1933.
Julia’s Guide to New York Part 2: Manhattan West
Part 2 of my guide to the Big Apple covers Manhattan’s west side from Washington Square to Central Park.
This route begins in Washington Square, where Harry left Sally after their road trip from Chicago. This landmark square has also featured in the Will Smith film I am Legend and is worth a visit for a picture of the arch. Head north along West 4th Street, through the attractive residential area of Greenwich Village. Turn left into Grove Street and a couple of blocks further on you’ll come to the building that featured as the apartment building in the hit TV show Friends. Backtrack a block and head north along Bleecker Street. There are plenty of boutiques and cafes, but the one that may well have a queue outside is the original branch of the Magnolia Bakery, whose melt-in-the-mouth cupcakes featured in the HBO show Sex and the City.
Washington Square arch
One of my favourite things about New York is its capacity for change so today I’d recommend you then have a wander in what was once the heart of New York’s butchery area. Today the Meatpackers’ District is home to cute cafes and designer clothes stores, where warehouses have been turned into cutting edge businesses.
To get to the heart of the Meatpackers District, continue north along Hudson Street and right into Gansevoort Street. In the area bounded by Gansevoort and West 14th Street, you’ll pass enough boutiques and outlets to get a feel for the area. Turn down Washington Street and at the corner with West 13th Street is the Hogs and Heifers bar from the film Coyote Ugly. One block south is the start of the High Line, a fantastic community-driven renovation that showcases the architecture of the area whilst turning an overground railway into a recreational facility for locals and tourists alike. It’s heaving in the summer but in the winter, pick a clear day and you’ll be able to wander in peace and really appreciate your surroundings. Wrap up warm against the wind though – when a cold wind blows across the Hudson, it bites into your face like a swarm of angry mosquitoes. One of the architectural highlights is The Standard Hotel which straddles the High Line. Nip down for a Fat Witch brownie from the Fat Witch Bakery in Chelsea Market at 9th Avenue. Go online to www.fatwitch.com to see what might tempt you.
The High Line in winter
Back on the High Line, continue north; the park narrows and widens, offering vistas over art installations and views across to skyline landmarks like the Empire State. There are plenty of cosy nooks and crannies to snuggle up and you’ll have some of these pretty much to yourself in winter.
Follow the High Line right up to 30th Street and then head east past the Post Office (don’t stand too close to the building or you might get an unwelcome souvenir from the pigeons). It’s a fair walk across so you might wish to hail a yellow cab, but the walk will take you to 6th Avenue. Make a left and walk three (shorter) blocks to Herald Square at the back of Macys – the largest department store in the world, allegedly. Plenty of cafes and food outlets are located in this area as this is the heart of Midtown.
Just a block over, on 5th Avenue, is the Empire State Building. You may wish to reserve in advance as it can be pretty busy; go online at www.esbnyc.com. This Art Deco structure is one of the world’s most iconic buildings and definitely worth a visit. Don’t let them upsell you to the Skyride – it’s not worth the time or the money. The views from the 86th floor on a clear day are excellent, but the wind can be strong on at least one side of the viewing platform. Prepare yourself with a photogenic hat or plenty of hairspray.
The Empire State Building
North along 5th Avenue takes you to Bryant Park, where there’s a good Christmas market and, when the weather’s warm, al fresco eateries. Cut back west to Times Square and note the location. It’s tourist central, of course, emblazoned with neon and awash with comic book characters just dying to pose for a photo. If you like what you see, come back after dark. From Times Square, head for the subway and take the red line to 72nd Street (it’s an express stop, so the 1, 2 and 3 are all fine). If you’re hungry, try a hot dog from Gray’s Papaya and walk a couple of blocks over to the park.
Central Park is a must and from the west, you’ll follow a trail of pampered pooches heading into the park. If you have your own back home, pick up a canine-friendly gift from the New York Dog Shop on 73rd Street – purple squeaky Empire State toy, anyone? Enter the park at the 72nd Street Traverse and look for the memorial to John Lennon, the legendary musician shot on December 8th 1980 outside the Dakota Building which stands across the street. The Imagine mosaic forms part of a tribute area known as Strawberry Fields, funded by a $1 million donation from John’s widow Yoko Ono. Continue through the park. In summer, you might rent a boat from the Loeb Boathouse; in winter, perhaps try your luck at ice-skating on the Wollman rink.
Central Park
The days of one Central Park attraction might be numbered, however. Despite Mayor de Blasio’s intention to ban them, at the time of writing it is still possible to take a horse and carriage ride through the park; they congregate along 59th Street at the southern edge of the park. They’ve been a part of the Park since the day it opened back in 1858 and Hollywood stars such as Liam Neeson and Danny Glover have made no secret of their opposition to the Mayor’s plans, along with an estimated 67% of New Yorkers. Find out more about the issue at www.savenychorsecarriages.com.
When you’re done, make your way back to see the lights of Times Square. You may wish to eat at Ellen’s Stardust Diner. It’s not to everyone’s taste, but those that love it enjoy the singing wait staff and its 1950s retro diner decor. You’ll find it at Broadway and 51st, or if you can’t see it, listen out for a song. To round off the evening, pay a visit to the observatory platform at the Top of the Rock. This offers unrivalled views of Manhattan for one reason – your view will include the Empire State Building. Depending on the season, this after-dinner slot may coincide with sunset, and it’s certainly an impressive vista after dark, although you may not wish to ascend this and the ESB in the same trip, especially if your time is limited. Pre-book your ticket at http://www.topoftherocknyc.com to avoid having to wait in line.
Sunset at the Top of the Rock NYC
Julia’s Guide to New York Part 1: Lower Manhattan
Here’s my guide for the first-time visitor to Lower Manhattan.
Begin at the southern tip of Manhattan, on the reclaimed land known as Battery Park City. Walk across Battery Park until you see Castle Clinton (the large circular fort) and get tickets for the Statue of Liberty – I’d advise an early start as the queues can be long, even out of season. Take the Circle Line cruise, get off at Liberty Island and have a close-up shot with the Statue. You can go up inside the crown but you need to pre-book tickets which have limited availability. When I last visited, the exhibition inside explained the technology behind creating the structure. Book tickets ahead of time at www.statuecruises.com
The Statue of Liberty
The second stop on the Circle Line cruise is Ellis Island. Temporarily closed after damage sustained by Storm Sandy’s flooding, it has now reopened. This fascinating museum tells the story of immigration to the USA, focused on the migrants that came through Ellis Island. You can imagine how scared some of them would have been as they stood in the hall with its huge arched windows. Some of the pictures are haunting and it’s definitely worth hiring an audio guide to hear the stories. Allow at least a couple of hours to absorb the information – more if you’re a history buff or genealogy fan.
If you’re not bothered about seeing Lady Liberty close up, you can take the Staten Island ferry from right next to the South Ferry subway building. It’s free and runs every 15 to 30 minutes. You get the same amazing view of southern Manhattan and Battery Park from the back of the ferry without having to pay, or queue. The platform at the rear of the ferry is small, so wait by it when you board to be sure of a good spot on the left as you look back to Manhattan and across to the Statue of Liberty.
Lower Manhattan as viewed from the Staten Island Ferry
On your return to Battery Park, walk across the park to the Skyscraper Museum, tucked away opposite the Museum of Jewish Heritage on its western side. Lots of people don’t know about this place but it has some interesting exhibits of skyscrapers within Manhattan and a main exhibit that changes regularly. Check for current exhibit details at www.skyscraper.org
Head over to Bowling Green subway (green line) back towards the South Ferry station – you’ll see a sculpture crafted from 9/11 debris. Walk north up Broadway and you’ll soon come across the Charging Bull sculpture the centre of the street – worth a brief photo and you sometimes get street performers or musicians hanging out here.
Arturo di Modica’s famous Charging Bull sculpture
Carry on up the street until you get to Wall Street and take the obligatory pictures of the New York Stock Exchange and opposite, Federal Hall. You get a cool view standing next to the statue of George Washington and looking out over the street. Now head north towards Fulton Street and turn down the street heading for South Street Seaport. It’s worth noting that there’s a TKTS booth here which often has shorter queues than its better known counterpart in Times Square. The old fish market has closed and relocated to the Bronx. The seaport buildings were hit badly by Storm Sandy in 2012 but renovations have been extensive. Pier 17 has reopened and there are a range of pleasant eateries in and around this area which makes a good spot for a lazy lunch. If you want something quick and on the run, I love Ruben’s Empanadas – a little taste of Latin America right on Fulton Street.
Stroll off lunch with a walk along the East River boardwalk until you are just short of the Brooklyn Bridge – it makes for a good view. You may wish to head up onto the bridge itself – you need to walk at least halfway across to you get a true feel for the bridge’s amazing architectural quality. Alternative views can be had by taking a yellow water taxi across to Brooklyn and view Manhattan’s skyscrapers from the east. Note that water taxi fares in summer are cheaper because in winter you have to buy a day pass.
The Brooklyn Bridge
Backtrack along Fulton Street and head for the tiny church of St Paul’s Chapel at 209 Broadway. You’ll find the 9/11 Chapel of Remembrance here and if you walk around the back, you find the Liberty Bell in the churchyard. Take the road to the right of the church and cut across to the junction of Liberty and West Streets for the entrance to the 9/11 memorial. There’s no need to pre-book tickets anymore now that the museum is open – all the security checks now take place inside the museum, which is worth a visit. You can also ascend New York’s tallest building, the Freedom Tower. Your final stop just a few steps up from the memorial site at 233 Broadway is the Woolworth Building; built in 1913 and once the tallest building in the world.
9/11 Memorial at dusk
My choice of dining in Lower Manhattan is at Fraunces Tavern, located at 54 Pearl Street. Hop on the subway and travel a few stops to go back in time – this is the place where George Washington bade his farewells to his officers back in 1783. Fittingly, there is now a museum of American Revolutionary War history in the building. The bar has an extensive menu of over 130 craft beers and ciders, hosts live music at weekends and the food is good too.
A beginner’s guide to the Riviera Maya
Mexico’s Riviera Maya is the name given to the stretch of Quintana Roo coastline that extends from Cancun in the north (or a few kilometres south of it, definitions vary) to the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve to the south. Together with the neighbouring state of Yucatan, it is a deservedly popular package and independent tourism destination. This guide is aimed at the first-time visitor and should help you to make the most of your holiday. Prices are shown in Mexican pesos, which at the time of writing had an exchange rate of about 23 to the pound. The information given was correct at the time of writing, but check locally as things change.
One of the four voladores
How to get there
Most visitors arrive at Cancun’s international airport just to the south of town, well served by direct scheduled flights from the UK, for example, with British Airways and Virgin Atlantic. It is possible to fly to Mexico City and catch a connecting flight but this takes longer. A wide range of packages are available. From the airport, the best way of getting to your hotel depends on your location. ADO buses serve the centres of Cancun and Playa del Carmen on a half-hourly basis, with fares of 270 pesos per person to Playa and 145 to 170 pesos to Cancun and its hotel zone. Shared airport shuttles are available to the main resort areas as are private hotel transfers though you’ll pay more than the scheduled bus. If you’re on a package, transfers will usually be included but check your booking documents.
Parrot in Xcaret Eco-park
How to get around
Taxis are cheap but better still are the minibuses called colectivos that ply the main road at regular intervals. To catch one, simply flag it down and tell the conductor your intended destination. Fares are cheap so take loose change and small notes; hang on to your receipt if you’re given one. In Playa, colectivos can be found in town at Calle 2 Norte between 15th and 20th, whereas in Cancun you’ll need to come out of the Zona Hotelera into downtown, where they congregate outside La Comercial Mexicana supermarket on Avenida Tulum. In Tulum, look for them opposite the ADO bus station in the town. It’s a good idea to double check with your hotel once you arrive.
Several bus companies serve a large network across Quintana Roo (the state containing the coastal strip) and neighbouring Yucatan (where you’ll find Chichen Itza). The best quality buses, with fewer stops and therefore slightly dearer fares, are run by ADO, whose website is easy to navigate (it’s also in English) and tickets can be booked online. Local routes are also served by the cheaper Oriente and Mayab buses, which tend to be a little less comfortable and stop more frequently.
Where to stay
Cancun is the largest of the Mayan Riviera resorts. Created from scratch four decades ago, it basically consists of two areas: downtown, where the locals live, and the Zona Hotelera, a narrow strip of land flanked by a lagoon on one side and white sand in the other. Its lively nightlife and many bars attract a young crowd, especially from the USA and Canada. However, Cancun’s too noisy and brash for many, who instead head an hour down the coast to Playa del Carmen. Playa has grown immensely in the last decade, but its pedestrian street, Quinta, with a good selection of shops, bars and restaurants still attracts many people. The central beach, though eroded in places, is busy and lined with popular beach clubs playing music while its water is safe for swimming.
Blue margarita
Alternatives to Cancun and Playa
Another hour by bus further south, Tulum has also developed rapidly with accommodation strung out along the beach as well as in town. Once home to a few hippy hangouts, it now also hosts stylish beach clubs and luxury hotels alongside hammocks and hostels. Puerto Morelos, midway between Cancun and Playa, is a small town that contains a few hotels. Akumal, a quarter of an hour south of Playa, serves those who like their resort town to be local and relatively unspoilt.
The easiest way to get to both Puerto Morelos and Akumal is by flagging down a colectivo on the side of the main road, known as the 307. Connecting Cancun to Tulum and beyond is a string of all-inclusive luxury resorts, gated from the main road and fiercely protective of their private patch of beach. These are well suited to families as the all-inclusive option makes budgeting easier and there are plenty of water-based activities for all ages.
Whether you’re a backpacker on a budget or a family seeking a fortnight of water sports and lazy days by the pool, there’s something on the Mayan Riviera that will cater for you. If you don’t mind being away from the beach, the town of Valladolid, two hours inland from Cancun, offers an alternative to independent travellers seeking a less touristy experience. ADO buses run frequently, with fares from 255 pesos each way from both Cancun and Playa del Carmen.
Art gallery in Valladolid selling all things Catrina, the symbol of the Day of the Dead festivities
Set around a charming plaza, there are a handful of hotels and restaurants, one of the best being El Meson de Marques right on the main square. From Valladolid, it’s easy to get to the ruins of Chichen Itza and Ek Balam as well as to the pretty town of Merida to the north of the peninsula, itself a good base for visiting the ruins of Uxmal and Sayil. The town is busy and it can feel less comfortable in the heat without a cooling sea breeze, but Valladolid’s a useful stopping off point between the coast and Merida if you wish to tour the peninsula.
Theme parks
As you’d expect from a well-established destination, there’s a number of water and eco-parks to tempt holidaymakers out of their resorts. If you go to only one, make it Xcaret. Pronounced “ish-ca-rett”, the site was once a Mayan port. Visit its archaeological remains within the main park; the park itself is a fun way to spend the day (from 2480 pesos). You can swim in a lazy river and visit the park’s wildlife including turtles and dolphins. The park features a reconstructed Mayan ball court as well as a typical hacienda and folk art museum.
At night, stay for the spectacle that condenses a thousand years of history into a couple of hours (evening admission from 1814 pesos). It features everything from Mayan sport played with balls of fire to dance and folklore set pieces representing Mexico’s diverse regions. This and other performances such as an equestrian show and the exciting display put on by the Voladores de Papantla are included in the ticket price. It’s simple to find booths selling tickets in Cancun and Playa del Carmen or you can book online. Some activities carry a supplement. For more information visit the Xcaret website or pick up a leaflet when you arrive.
The show at Xcaret
Xplor is the go-to park for thrill seekers. Tickets – prices are similar to Xcaret and bookable online – cover four attractions: a ride in an amphibious vehicle, a lazy river swim, underground rafting and the highest zip lines in Latin America. Full instruction is given and a helmet mounted camera ensures that you have a selection of photos as a memento of your day. As well as Xcaret and Xplor, there are a range of other attractions in a similar vein, including Xel-Ha and Rio Secreto.
Perhaps even more fun is to do what residents do to make the best of the landscape and cool off when it’s hot. Beneath the peninsula, the limestone rock has slowly been weathered away to create a fascinating underground world of sinkholes and caverns into which water has gradually filtered. These subterranean lagoons are known locally as cenotes, form natural swimming pools popular with families at weekends but often quieter in the week.
There are many cenotes close to the coast, but one of the best is Cenote Xkeken at Dzitnup. Located a little way out of Valladolid, it is a glistening turquoise lake lit through a hole in the roof of a huge cavern dangling with stalactites. The name is Mayan for pig; allegedly a farmer stumbled across it when one of his pigs fell into it by accident. Entrance costs 226 pesos; it’s possible to combine your visit with another nearby cenote, Samula.
Cenotes can be found throughout the peninsula
Mayan ruins
The large number of historical sites in Quintana Roo and the Yucatan can leave the visitor ruined out. It’s best to choose a few and enjoy them, rather than attempt to tick them all off in one trip. The jewel in the crown is without a doubt Chichen Itza. A sprawling site surrounded by jungle, it centres around the restored Kukulkan pyramid and an interesting collection of other structures including an observatory and ball court. Every tour operator offers day trips, but the site is easy to visit independently.
ADO buses connect Chichen Itza directly to Cancun and Playa del Carmen via good roads. The relativly new Tren Maya also serves this part of the peninsula, though tickets aren’t cheap and schedules won’t always suit your plans. Guides for Chichen Itza can be hired at the entrance if you wish and they’ll provide valuable context if this is your first visit. A ticket to get in costs 697 pesos for foreign tourists. (Mexicans enjoy a discounted rate, locals even more so).
The Kukulkan pyramid at Chichen Itza
The must-see on the coast is Tulum, not for its scale but for its location. Tulum’s temples sit right on top of the cliff above a small patch of sand and a turquoise sea and unsurprisingly as a result receives the highest number of visitors of any of the peninsula’s archaeological sites. Like Chichen Itza, the volume of tourists necessitates obvious management and many structures are roped off, but the grey of the stone against the blue sky makes this a very atmospheric place despite the crowds. It’s still just possible to find a quiet spot with just a lizard or two for company, especially first thing in the morning. Tickets are priced at 100 pesos but you’ll also need to pay a conservation fee and also for entrance to the national park.
Tulum’s dramatic setting
Coba, just a few years ago off the beaten track but now increasingly in the tour operators’ sights, is situated an hour or so from Tulum. Once a thriving Mayan city, the ruins are scattered through an area of jungle crisis-crossed with Mayan roads known as sacbe. The pyramid here is less well preserved than that at Chichen Itza and for now at least can be climbed by anyone untroubled by vertigo – with just a single rope to cling on to, this is not a climb for those with a fear of heights. Entrance costs 210 pesos for foreigners but due to the size of the site, many people opt to rent bicycles or take a ride to the ruins in a cycle rickshaw at extra cost.
Coba’s pyramid
Less well-known and yet only twenty minutes by colectivo from Valladolid are the extensive ruins at Ek Balam. Relatively recently rediscovered, like Coba the site has a pyramid to climb, the Acropolis, its 106 worn steps rising steeply from the ground to offer extraordinary views of the surrounding jungle from the top. Ek Balam means dark jaguar in Mayan and as a result, the observant will spot jaguar motifs carved into the stone throughout the site. The entrance fee is 671 pesos for foreign tourists.
Reach Ek Balam by colectivo taxi from Valladolid; either pay for a seat and wait for others to join you or pay for the whole car. As they’re taxis rather than minibuses, you’ll have to ask where to find them. Try Calle 44 between 37 and 35, tucked inside the courtyard of a building rather than on the road outside.
The little-visited Ek’ Balam
Further afield, the attractive colonial town of Merida makes a convenient base if you wish to visit the Yucatecan sites of Sayil, Labna and Uxmal. It’s also close to Izamal whose ruins boast the largest surviving Mayan structure in the area. Getting to Merida takes around five hours by bus from the coastal resorts of Quintana Roo.
Natural wonders
A coral reef extends from the Riviera Maya down past Belize and on to Honduras. The second longest in the world, after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, it provides excellent opportunities for both snorkelling and diving. The largest protected reserve in the area is the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, south of the main tourist strip. Tours showcase its flora and fauna, in particular birds, dolphins and turtles, plus occasionally manatees for those lucky enough to spot them. Akumal’s public beach is a good place for green turtle watching. There’s no need to book a tour, as snorkelling equipment can be rented from the dive shop on the beach, from where it’s a short swim out to the reef. Even in busy spots such as the main beach at Playa del Carmen, you’ll see flamingos diving for fish and bobbing about amidst the breakers.
Playa del Carmen beach
Off the coast
Cozumel, an established cruise ship and diving destination, is easily reached by ferry from the terminal at the southern end of Playa del Carmen. It offers the facilities you’d usually expect from a place where the majority of visitors are only in town for a short while. Island tours are expensive as are taxis. Isla Mujeres and Isla Holbox, reached by ferry from Cancun, are better bolt holes if you want a more laid back island stay.
Updated April 2026
Julia's Travels 