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New York’s latest project? The Lowline Lab

Hot on the heels of the High Line, the elevated railway turned park which is now one of New York City’s best loved attractions, there comes a bold newcomer. Following the same tradition of cutting edge conceptual development, imaginative design and community involvement, a new way of injecting green space into the Big Apple’s concrete jungle is underway. It’s officially called Delancey Underground but unsurprisingly, everyone’s nicknamed it the Lowline.

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A small group of talented individuals led by James Ramsey and Dan Barasch have been working on trialling a technology which would enable natural sunlight to be harvested and transferred underground in order to grow plants for a subterranean garden. The Lowline Lab, as the testing site is called, houses around three thousand plants in the former market building on Essex Street. It occupies a site about 5% of the proposed end result, large enough to give the visitor a sense of what the Lowline might one day be like.

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This Lower East Side location has not been selected by chance. In fact, this is one of the most built up areas of a city blessed with squares and neighbourhood parks. A growing population and substantial redevelopment in the LES puts paid to any hopes of removing concrete and tarmac from any above-ground real estate so burrowing underground was the logical choice. With a suitable location identified – the long abandoned Williamsburg Bridge trolley terminal – all that had to happen was for technology to catch up.

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Working in collaboration with a number of specialist firms, the committed Lowline staff and volunteers have developed an impressive system of mirrors and tubes which feed light off the street and into the dark depths of the derelict market. Last October, the project set about testing whether plants could survive the New York winter when shorter daylight hours in theory wouldn’t provide the right environment for them to thrive. In fact, the opposite has been true and it has even proved possible to grow viable plants from seed. Spanish moss hangs from the ceiling, trailing down towards a plywood platform carpeted in shade tolerant ferns, exotic succulents and verdant shrubs. Seedlings labelled with lolly sticks emphasise the newness and experimental nature of the project.

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With the market earmarked by developers, the Lowline Lab was set to close in March 2016 but a stay of execution was granted as the developers postponed their plans. Now, the Lowline Lab will be open to visitors until at least March 2017. This extension has brought with it new challenges, not least a plethora of pesky insects that have been as thrilled to move into their new neighbourhood digs as the human residents have been to repurpose them. Undeterred, the Lowline team have implemented a series of measures that will ensure that the experience of visiting this innovative underground garden isn’t marred by a thick cloud of midges. Nematodes have been placed in the soil to good effect, though the introduction of carnivorous plants has been less successful, partly because visitors have been tempted to touch their snapping jaws themselves.

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With feasibility studies complete, politicians and community groups on side, support (though not funds) from owners MTA and a steady stream of interested visitors to the Lab itself, there are just a few fundraising and logistical hurdles to overcome. It seems the project could well come to fruition. At present, the team are confident they’ll have the Lowline up and running by 2020 or thereabouts. In the meantime, I’d strongly recommend that if you’re in New York one weekend before next March you take a trip down to 140 Essex Street and check out the Lab for yourself.

It’s almost time to go to the airport

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Dennis Potter’s famous quote sums it up perfectly:

“I did not fully understand the dread term “terminal illness” until I saw Heathrow for myself.”

Another trip is looming and with it, the love-hate feelings that come with beginning that trip at an airport. A necessary evil, of course, if you’re intending to go long haul and back without taking a six-month sabbatical or trading in a regular job for work on a cruise ship. This time it’s Gatwick. I’m not thrilled about the place, though I don’t feel the same loathing for it as I do for Heathrow.

The immigration hall at Heathrow is the worldly embodiment of hell. But at least I don’t have to face it for a while. I’m OK with Gatwick. Baggage reclaim there is a whole other matter but I must stay strong and limit myself to carry on.

But to return, I first have to leave.

If only I could time it right so I could sweep through the airport and onto the plane in one elegant motion, like cabin crew or Kim Kardashian or something. The reality, alas, is more like the Tom Hanks film The Terminal, where instead I feel like I’ve moved in. My stress level rockets unless I’m at the airport at least three hours before my flight leaves. I usually end up pacing up and down the concourse wandering aimlessly in and out of various retail outlets browsing at things I have no need for and certainly no intention of buying. At least Gatwick has normal shops. I like the kind of shops that can help me out with the essentials I’ve just realised I’ve forgotten to pack: toothpaste and hair bands and excessively large chocolate bars, not stuff like caviar and silk ties and other crap that only rich tourists will be impressed with.

If I’m not de-stocking Boots, I’m buying expensive coffee to ensure I need the bathroom just as the monitor flashes up my flight’s final call. Is there ever a stage between wait in lounge and final call? Even as I tell myself it can’t possibly be a final call as my flight isn’t scheduled to leave for another hour I feel a deep seated panic and race off to the gate to find no boarding is happening whatsoever. With all the travelling I do, I should know better. I really should.

Perhaps the call goes out early so there’s plenty of time to get lost. Douglas Adams, in The Long Dark Tea-Time of the Soul, wryly observed that airport planners seek:

“wherever possible to expose the plumbing on the grounds that it is functional, and conceal the location of the departure gates, presumably on the grounds that they are not.”

But at least our British airports don’t conceal the check in desks behind a plain white wall, as the Russians did in Ulan Ude when I visited it. Now that really was a challenge. It takes a really special kind of planner to design an airport like that. I can only assume the sign writer charged such exorbitant prices that the budget wouldn’t stretch that far. For once I was glad I’d rocked up three hours early. It took almost all of that time to find out where to drop my bag.

Should we adapt to a no-frills travel style?

The travel press is focusing on speculation concerning British Airways and its possible policy change in charging for food on short haul routes.  Read more about it here: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/comment/british-airways-to-charge-for-meals-budget-airline/

Following the stratospheric growth of the low-cost sector, full service scheduled airlines have had to work harder to attract passengers whose prime consideration is price.  Living close to Stansted and Southend airports, it’s very rare for me to travel to Heathrow or Gatwick (or God forbid Luton during school holidays) unless I absolutely have to, so the likes of easyJet and Ryanair have been my go-to airlines for short hops for a couple of decades now.

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Lithuania in the off season

Over the years, bargain flights have taken me to pretty much every country in Europe.  From Kaunas (Lithuania) to Malmo (Sweden), I’ve never let the fact that I’ve not heard of a destination stand in the way of a cheap fare.  And neither have I worried about the extras, happily paring down my luggage and printing off my boarding passes at home to avoid fees that some whine about.  If I can get halfway across the continent for thirty quid, then quite frankly I don’t give a stuff if they feed me or not.  It’s not like most airline food is anything to rave about.

So to be honest, I don’t really understand the fuss.  On the very short flights like, say, London to Amsterdam, cabin crew have to practically throw the food at you to get down the aisle and back before the fasten seat belt signs come back on.  If you’re only in the air for an hour, is it really so bad to do without a drink or a snack?  And if you’re that bothered, buy a bottle of water and a chocolate bar airside and take it on with you.

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Tulips from Amsterdam, where they also sell food should you leave the airport hungry

I like these bargain basement fares – and who doesn’t?  I’ve never understood the logic in flying business class on short haul routes (they’re often the exact same seats for heaven’s sake!) or upgrading to speedy boarding (do these people not realise that the plane still won’t take off until the last person’s on too?)

I don’t even care who I sit with.  It’s nice to chat to my travelling companion but it’s not a deal breaker if I’m separated for an hour or two.  It even happened on my Wow Air flight to Iceland to get married, but then my fiance and I were the last to check in so it did serve us right.  Who knows, the person that has the pleasure of my company might be more entertaining.  (Apologies to those who are reading this having been a travelling companion of mine in the past – I don’t mean you, obviously.)

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The Sun Voyager statue, Reykjavik

And therein lies my point.  The travel industry is evolving to cope with a changing economic climate and we need to adapt too.  The days of flying being a glamorous affair reserved for the rich and famous are long gone.  So ditch the suitcase, have a drink before you board and eat when you get there – no frills travel is here to stay!

Head Stateside this summer

It’s fast approaching Memorial Day in the USA, the day for Americans to remember those who died fighting for their country. It falls on the last Monday in May, which this year is May 30th. For visitors, that weekend more or less marks the beginning of the tourist season for those attractions that open only during the summer months. In New York, for instance, that’s when the new Gansevoort Market is expected to open and the weekend Governor’s Island kicks off its summer season. For many Brits, a holiday in the USA means taking the kids to Florida’s theme parks, or perhaps a shopping trip to the Big Apple. The reality is, of course, that there is so much more.

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Lower Manhattan as viewed from the Staten Island Ferry

I’m often surprised to read on travel forums that people write the country off because of its draconian immigration procedures, when in fact in my experience it’s rarely worse than anywhere else. Some even claim that the $14 ESTA is a deal breaker – seriously, a £9 charge on a long haul holiday? That’s hardly going to leave you without spending money. I’ve travelled a lot in the States and I can honestly say, Florida aside, (I’m no fan of the Mouse) I’ve never begrudged paying it to see such incredible and varied scenery. So, to mark Memorial Day, here’s my pick of America’s very best tourist spots. It’s been hard to whittle them down and I could easily add more.

This Memorial Day weekend I’m going to be in my favourite US city – New York. Where are you going to be?

A float trip in the Grand Tetons

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Bad skies in the Badlands

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New Orleans

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Pike Place Market, Seattle

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Savannah’s squares

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Bar Harbor – lobster and beer

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The Rodeo at Cody

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Canyons, rock arches and more, Utah

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The Mummer’s Parade, Philadelphia

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Las Vegas’ Neon Museum

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Big skies and glaciers, Montana

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The Bronx, New York

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Monterey’s Cannery Row

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Elegant Charleston

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Running with the llamas, Hammond Wisconsin

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So are you tempted?  What’s your favourite US destination and why?

How to survive a long haul flight

Always wanted to visit that far flung destination but dread the flight you’ll need to take to get there? Sometimes a long haul flight is the hell that has to be endured to reach paradise. If you aren’t lucky enough to fly First Class or have incredible views beneath you through a cloudless sky, you might need my help. Here are a few tried and tested tips for making that journey fly by (sorry, couldn’t resist!)

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London at dawn from the air

Drink plenty

Sadly, I don’t mean chug back the wine and pass out. Save the alcohol for your holiday and instead drink plenty of water. Flying is very dehydrating – which means if you don’t keep topping up your liquids, on top of thirst, you risk suffering headaches, dry skin and tiredness. And none of those are conducive to a happy flight. You can keep asking cabin crew for water, but you might be more popular if you buy a bottle of water from the airside newsagents before you board. Pack a travel-size moisturiser to keep your skin hydrated too.

Keep moving

Unless you’re still lucky enough to be a lithe and supple twenty something who can curl themselves up into a ball on take off and stretch like a contented cat as they awake on landing, a long flight potentially means discomfort. Spending a long time in a cramped environment leads to aching muscles and stiff joints. Make a point of getting up at regular intervals to move those legs and you’ll feel much better for it.

Bring some reading material

Forget War and Peace, what I take on a flight has to be easy to read. Eschew the literary classics and think chick lit, trashy magazines and historical sagas. I was so engrossed in Jeffrey Archer’s Clifton Chronicles on a recent flight I barely noticed we’d landed. Make sure the Kindle’s fully charged or go retro and take a paperback. And if you’re taking a guide book, don’t pack it in your hold luggage; plan your trip in the air to maximise time for sightseeing when you arrive.

Save up your correspondence

There are rarely enough hours in the day to fit everything in and it’s not uncommon to fall behind, so I spend some of a long flight writing drafts of emails on my iPad ready to send when I arrive. (Some airlines offer Internet access on board but check the small print to find out how much it’s likely to cost before you connect.) I also use the time to write future blog posts, draft articles for clients and make to do lists.

Make the most of the on-board entertainment

Listen to the album you’ve not had chance to download, engross yourself in that film you failed to catch at the cinema, binge watch addictive TV sitcoms – most airlines have plenty of choice. I also make sure I’ve got lots of games on my tablet so I can pass the time playing Scrabble, card games and Sudoku.

Talk to your neighbour

Whether you’re travelling with a companion or solo, it’s often pleasant to chat. Take the hint though if your neighbour is monosyllabic with their responses – some people might find your inane chatter intensely annoying. And if you’re stuck with the cabin’s biggest bore, dig out some headphones and announce with an apologetic shrug you’ve been looking forward to listening to that album or audio book for ages.

Hit the snooze button

If all else fails, sleep. Beg, borrow or steal an extra pillow and blanket to pad out those uncomfortable armrests and snatch a nap or two.