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How to get the best out of a Heathrow layover (Part 1)

Flying via Heathrow? There’s no need to stay at the airport. Instead, take a trip into London and have a taste of what the British capital has to offer.

Part One: Getting to Central London

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Notting Hill is comfortably doable on a layover

Take the train. Don’t be tempted with taxi or bus transfers; London’s traffic is too unreliable for you to risk wasting valuable layover time stuck in traffic. Instead, you have several options.

Most expensive, but fast, is the Heathrow Express. It takes 15 minutes to get from LHR to London Paddington station, from where you’re well connected by Tube to the centre and its attractions. Machines (and conductors) accept cash as well as credit and debit cards, but you’ll save a lot if you don’t use it.

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Heathrow Express ticket machines

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Heathrow Express Second Class

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Heathrow Express First Class

However, there’s now a better way, which is almost as fast (quickest journey time to Paddington is 24 minutes) but significantly cheaper. The Elizabeth Line crosses London. Along the way it handily links Heathrow with key central London stations such as Paddington, Bond Street, Tottenham Court Road and Liverpool Street.

Cheaper still is the Tube, but it stops more frequently so your journey will take longer. The Piccadilly line connects Heathrow to popular tourist destinations such as Piccadilly Circus, Covent Garden, Hyde Park and Leicester Square. Journey times can feel tediously slow as the numerous stations aren’t far apart, but on average you’re looking at around 45 to 50 minutes to get into Central London. Fares vary according to the time of day and whether you have an Oyster card/tap in and out with a credit or debit card.

Useful links

Heathrow Express: https://www.heathrowexpress.com/
London Underground including information about the Elizabeth Line: https://tfl.gov.uk/
Tube and rail map: https://tfl.gov.uk/maps/track
Fares: https://tfl.gov.uk/campaign/new-fares
Heathrow transport information: http://www.heathrow.com/transport-and-directions#

For some well-known and more unusual suggestions for what to do once you’ve reached Central London, read my next blog: https://juliamhammond.wordpress.com/2015/12/09/how-to-get-the-best-out-of-a-heathrow-layover-part-2/

To stopover, or not to stopover?

One decision to be made when working out a long haul itinerary is whether or not to plan a stopover when booking flights.  Here are a few issues to consider which might help you decide.

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Boeing Dreamliner takes off

What’s it going to do to the flight cost?

Before making a decision to stopover, check out flight combinations and prices. A stopover including a few nights’ accommodation sometimes makes very little difference to the total flight cost compared to a direct flight. A stopover is classed as a stay of more than 24 hours whereas a layover might be just an hour or two. Layovers can also give you the chance to do a bit of sightseeing during your journey. See if you can extend your layover by taking a later flight to your final destination with that same airline. If the city is relatively close to the airport and if transportation is good, you can see a little of the layover city without it increasing the budget at all. Your luggage will usually be checked through to your final destination leaving you with just hand luggage. This has worked for me several times, most recently in Chicago and in Istanbul.

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Istanbul

How much of the world do you want to see?

On both occasions I’ve been to the Antipodes, the best flight deals hubbed through places I’d already visited, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.  Eschewing the stopover didn’t leave me feeling like I’d missed out , but I may have felt differently if I’d never been to the stopover city before.  A trip to Tanzania with Qatar Airways gave me the opportunity for a two-day stopover in the Qatari capital Doha, somewhere I’d not have chosen to visit in itself, but a pleasant stopover nevertheless.  Next year, I’m stopping off in Sri Lanka en route to the Seychelles, a little out of the way but a great opportunity to see more places without vastly inflating my budget.

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Doha

How will you cope with double jet lag?

If you are travelling east over any distance then you’re going to be hit by jet lag. There are things you can do to help alleviate symptoms, including trying to eat and sleep according to the new time zone before you arrive and keeping hydrated during the journey with plenty of water, but the fact remains, jet lag is a very real possibility. On my trips to Australia and New Zealand, I’ve opted for a quick change of flights rather than a few days’ stopover. Why? So I suffer the dreaded jet lag once rather than twice. Admittedly by 4pm on my first day in Sydney I was punch-drunk with fatigue but after a good sleep I was raring to go the next day. In Auckland a few years later, prepared for the same thing, I enjoyed a pleasant day exploring Ponsonby before hitting the hay at 7pm for a decent night’s rest. Again, the following morning, I was fully refreshed and ready to tackle the city instead of facing another long flight. Choose a layover airport with plenty of facilities, such as Singapore’s Changi or Kuala Lumpur International, both of which have airside hotels. You can book a bed or take a shower while you wait for the second flight, and get that horrible journey out of the way in one hit.

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Auckland’s Sky Tower

How much time do you have for your holiday?

If you’re heading long haul for a long stay holiday such as a gap year, then a few weeks exploring somewhere on the way doesn’t make a big dent in the time you’re going to get at your destination.  But if that holiday is restricted to the two or three weeks you’re going to be able to get off work, then you need to think about where you really want to spend it. Ask yourself whether your stopover days will prevent you seeing something amazing at your main destination, or give you the chance to see something equally amazing en route that you’d otherwise have missed.

Australia Sydney Opera House at night

Sydney’s iconic Opera House

Are you likely to get the opportunity to go back?

For some, a long haul trip will be the adventure of a lifetime, and likely to happen only once.  If that’s the case, then stopping on the way to your main destination might be the only chance you’ll have to explore that part of the world and as such, you might be foolish to pass up the chance.  If it’s somewhere that frequently shows up on flight deals websites or is a popular package holiday destination and thus relatively cheap, you might be tempted to ditch the place as a stopover for now and go there later on for a longer holiday.

Thailand Old temple in Ayutthaya

Ayuttahaya, Thailand

Are you unsure about whether you’d like the place or not?

Taking the opportunity to make a stopover in a city is a good way to find out if you like the place enough to book a longer holiday or not. Sometimes, this might be clear beforehand; it’s possible to stop in Reykjavik, the Icelandic capital, on the way to certain North American destinations, but in my opinion, this incredible country warrants more than a couple of days. But if you’re unsure, then staying just a night or two in a place gives you a taster, enough to help you decide whether to tick it off the list or to go back for a more leisurely visit.

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The Sun Voyager statue, Reykjavik

Off to New York? Here’s my free guide.

New York, New York, as Gerard Kenny sang, the city so good they named it twice and, you’ll find, so enthralling you won’t want to visit just once.

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The Empire State Building

But where to start? There’s just so much to see and do that the city can be daunting for the first-time visitor. Don’t worry, help is at hand. I’ve put together several online guides. They’re free and they should help ensure that you won’t miss something major. Here are the links you need to make your New York city break a success.

First, here are my tips for getting the best out of your trip to New York City:
https://juliamhammond.wordpress.com/2015/01/24/tips-for-getting-the-best-out-of-a-trip-to-new-york-city/

9/11 Memorial at dusk

9/11 Memorial at dusk

Next, how do you choose which tower to climb for the view of a lifetime?
https://juliamhammond.wordpress.com/2015/06/17/the-best-view-in-town-2/

Sunset at the Top of the Rock looking south to the Empire State Building

Sunset at the Top of the Rock looking south to the Empire State Building

Lower Manhattan
From the Statue of Liberty to the 9/11 Memorial, Lower Manhattan is packed with must-see attractions. Read this for some less well known tourist spots as well as some great money-saving tips.
https://juliamhammond.wordpress.com/2015/01/06/julias-guide-to-new-york-part-1-lower-manhattan/

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The Statue of Liberty

Manhattan West
With gems like the High Line, the cafes and bakeries of Greenwich Village and fabulous views from both the Top of the Rock and the Empire State Building, it’s hard to beat this side of the city.
https://juliamhammond.wordpress.com/2015/01/06/julias-guide-to-new-york-part-2-manhattan-west/

Central Park

Central Park

Manhattan East
The Upper East Side with its mansions facing Central Park is the polar opposite of the edgy Lower East Side but both are essentials for your trip. From Chinatown to the Chrysler Building, here’s what to see.
https://juliamhammond.wordpress.com/2015/01/07/julias-guide-to-new-york-part-3-manhattan-east/

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“I’ll have what she’s having!”

And lastly, for something a little different, get out into one of the other boroughs; Brooklyn is most convenient, Queens has some great food, Staten Island is reached by that free ferry with the views of the Statue of Liberty and the financial district’s skyscrapers, but my favourite is the Bronx. Find out why here:
https://juliamhammond.wordpress.com/2015/06/16/on-the-ancestor-trail-in-nyc/

My favourite travel spots

The trouble with not travelling when you’re obsessed with travel? You still eat, sleep, breathe it. My inbox and news feeds constantly offer suggestions on where I should go next. As my travel magazine subscriptions plop through the letterbox, there’s more. I’m really, really, struggling to resist Norwegian’s amazing fare deals to Puerto Rico. So what’s a girl to do? Reminisce, of course! Here are ten of my favourite places and the reasons why I chose them.

Favourite city: New York
This one’s a no-brainer. I love that iconic skyline, the variety within its neighbourhoods and the sheer energy of the place. Every time I go there’s something new to discover, from the hidden gems of the Bronx to ethnic eateries in Harlem and beyond. I could never get enough of the place.

Bears playing in the Bronx Zoo

Bears playing in the Bronx Zoo

Favourite beach: Port Salut
I travelled to Haiti with certain expectations, but despite its location in the middle of the Caribbean, that didn’t include great beaches. I was wrong. Port Salut beach had it all: glorious turquoise seas, white sand beaches and fabulous sunsets framed with palm trees. Best of all, most people don’t know about it yet.

The perfect place for doing nothing

The perfect place for doing nothing

Favourite wildlife experience: lions in Zambia
It’s not every day that when asked what you did that day you can say, “I took a lion for a walk”, but that’s exactly what I did in Zambia a couple of years ago. It was a surreal experience. I found myself forgetting that it was a lion and reverting to dog-walking mode, but fortunately lived to tell the tale.

Walking with lions, Zambia

Walking with lions, Zambia

Favourite natural phenomenon: watching the Northern Lights
Nature knows how to wow us and for me, the stand out show is to be found up beyond the Arctic Circle in a dark night sky. On a December trip to Tromso, Norway, we encountered cold like you’d never believe, but frozen feet were instantly forgotten when the sky dazzled us with shades of purple and green.

Northern Lights over the hills surrounding Tromso

Northern Lights over the hills surrounding Tromso

Favourite adrenaline rush activity: watching a volcano erupt
I do like volcanoes. I’ve been up close to the ash and smoke of a number of them in Ecuador, Nicaragua and Japan. But by far and away the best was ascending Mt Yasur on the Vanuatu island of Tanna. It was by far the most frightening experience I’ve ever had, but also the most awesome too – and for once that word’s the right one.

Mount Yasur erupts at dusk

Mount Yasur erupts at dusk

Favourite festival: Day of the Dead
It features in the latest Bond film, Spectre, and Mexico’s Day of the Dead is one of those festivals that becomes an immersive experience. I chose to participate in Oaxaca’s celebrations, and from helping to assemble an altar to visiting the atmospheric cemeteries, Dia de Muertos was an emotional and engaging event, as well as lots of fun.

The old cemetery at Xoxocotlan

The old cemetery at Xoxocotlan

Favourite place to wake up: Patagonia Camp
Last year we splurged on a lakefront ger in the Torres del Paine’s Patagonia Camp to celebrate our wedding anniversary. The weather forecasts depressed us with predictions of grey skies, but when it came to it, we were rewarded with stars visible through the roof’s circular window and pink skies at dawn.

Sunrise over Lago Toro

Sunrise over Lago Toro

Favourite people: Peruvians
Neighbouring Chile has scenery to die for, but it doesn’t have that killer-combination. You see, for me, it’s all about the people and Peruvians don’t just offer you a polite welcome, they embrace you in an enveloping hug. They’re more than a little potty, which just adds to the fun.

The bag hat lady at Kuelap

The bag hat lady at Kuelap

Favourite for culture: Japan
I’ve only been to this fascinating country once, but would love to go again. It’s a place where weird is normal: a place where you can buy square melons, get hot chicken and chips from a station vending machine and have to take a shower before you can get in the bath.

Gion matsuri

Gion matsuri

Favourite place to go walking: Austrian Tyrol
I first visited Austria at 9 months old, making several other trips as a child. Since then, as an adult I’ve found myself in the Tyrol several times. There’s just something about the place that I love: a combination of the fresh air, craggy mountain backdrops, geranium-adorned wooden chalets and excellent walking paths. Last time, I took the dog, and aside from getting him into the gondola, he loved it too.

My walking companion, Einstein

My walking companion, Einstein

A spin off blog: essexology.com

My last blog post, Travels closer to home, sowed a seed of an idea. I’ve lived in Essex for decades, but there are plenty of places I’ve never visited, and some attractions I’d never heard of. Last week, I spent an afternoon walking the myriad paths of beautiful Marks Hall Arboretum in glorious autumn sunshine, yet the day before I didn’t even know it was there.

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A spin-off blog, essexology, was born and I’ve been having fun uploading photos and information about some of my favourite places in my home county. If you think Essex is just what you see on TOWIE, then think again. You’ll be surprised at the variety, history and natural beauty of what many write off as merely a commuter belt for London.

If you have a suggestion for a place or a visitor attraction that I should feature, then please leave me a comment and I’ll check it out. And please do visit http://www.essexology.com and tell me what you think.