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Six of the best from 2015: cities

The end of 2015 is fast approaching, so it’s time to look back at the best of this year’s travels.

Glasgow

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The Armadillo as seen from Bell’s Bridge

Blessed with clear blue skies and a touch of snow underfoot, a trip to Glasgow in January was my first stay in Scotland’s largest city.  Architecturally splendid, the highlight was a trip to the Merchant Quarter for a chance to taste haggis, neeps and tatties in the wood panelled setting of the Cafe Gandolfi.  A timely reminder, should I need it, that I don’t have to travel abroad for a memorable travel experience.

Jacmel

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Carnaval, Jacmel-style

The old coffee town of Jacmel on Haiti’s southern coast has a languid charm for most of the year.  For a few frenetic days in February, all that changes as Carnaval comes to town and the city pulses to the soundtrack of a throbbing bass.  Clad in sequins, feathers and masks, everyone’s invited.  The people of Jacmel prove to the capital Port au Prince that they might be a sleepy backwater, but they know how to throw a party.

Bremen

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The four budding musicians

This northern German city is anything but grim, yet walking Bremen’s streets, Grimm was never far from my mind thanks to the brothers’ famous fairytale.  The four sad old creatures who set off to seek a better life in retirement ironically never made it to the city that adopted them as its mascot.  Nevertheless it’s a beautiful city to wander around looking for the sculptures that commemorate this heartwarming story.  Definitely one I’d like to revisit.

Salzburg

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Rooftop views of Salzburg’s many churches made the climb worthwhile

Going back to Salzburg was like visiting an old friend.  Decades had passed since my previous visit, but passing through the beautiful Old Town, I wondered on numerous occasions why I’d left it so long to go back.  Fräulein Maria’s cycling tour gave me the opportunity to cover a lot of ground and belt out some Sound of Music classics along the way.  Sing it with me: High on a hill was a lonely goatherd; Lay ee odl lay ee odl lay hee hoo…

Bologna

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Aperol Spritz? Don’t mind if I do.

Many of the Italian cities I visited for a work trip in 2015 were old favourites, but the city of Bologna was a new one on me.  I’d heard it was renowned for its towers and its food, so chose to climb its tallest to ease the guilt of that calorie overload.  The exertion of climbing the 498 steps to the top of Torre Asinelli meant I could indulge in the evening buffet which  accompanied my Aperol Spritz without a second thought.

New Orleans

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Lafayette cemetery

June gave me a second chance to visit New Orleans, albeit in temperatures considerably more sultry than for my first visit a few autumns ago.  Despite thunder, lightning and heavy rain, I enjoyed a self-guided walking tour of the Garden District, met up with guide Sandy again for a cemetery tour and, of course, enjoyed plenty of ice cream cocktails to keep me cool.  Love, love, love this city!

So what city impressed you in 2015? Please share, I’d love to hear.

Weather to travel: London

Mention weather and Britain in the same breath and cue much eye rolling and sighing. You don’t go to the UK for the weather, sure, but it’s not as bad as the naysayers would have you believe, and you certainly shouldn’t be put off visiting.

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Winter in Regent’s Park

The UK is influenced by a maritime rather than a continental climate and when it comes to the rain, that means our hills give a north west/south east split. So don’t panic if you’re headed to the UK capital and your news feed is full of flood pictures. Whilst the disruption is dreadful for those affected, London, in the drier half of the country, has had an average rainfall over the last three decades of just 557mm. 400mm or below would qualify it as a desert. If we compare that rainfall total to some of the major US cities, it’s less than half that which falls on Boston or New York City, and only a couple of hundred millimetres more than Los Angeles.

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A summer morning in Hampstead

London’s rainfall is spread throughout the year, with the lowest totals seen in July. Typically, most months see rain about one in three days, but often that’s only a light drizzle and confined to short periods. Even in the autumn and winter, statistically the wettest, pack a brolly or a waterproof coat and you’re good to go. It’s not like there’s a dearth of indoor attractions to check out during a shower.
Masks from Benin on display at the British Museum Masks from Benin on display at the British Museum

Clearly, at 50°N of the Equator, no one’s going to come to Britain in search of the scorching temperatures you’ll find in the Med, but sightseeing in big cities is no fun in sweltering heat. Here in the UK, we don’t see really hot temperatures often enough to warrant the expense of air conditioning, so if the mercury rises, London isn’t the best. If you do find yourself here in those circumstances (and you’ll know about it, believe me, because the newspapers will splash it all over the front pages), then avoid the Tube, grab a couple of cold drinks and head for one of London’s many green spaces.

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September in St James’ Park: photo by David Iliff CC-BY-SA 3.0

Fortunately, average temperatures even in the warmest month, July, rise only to about the mid-twenties (that’s Celsius and not Fahrenheit!). In the shoulder seasons of spring and autumn, it’s a comfortable 15-18°C and even in winter, the temperature rarely dips below about 5°C. Not for us those biting Arctic winds or toe-numbing blizzards. This year, it was a balmy 19°C the week before Christmas – exceptional but not a record.

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Docklands in the sunshine

So, remember what they say: there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad preparation. Timing your London visit to miss the summer season gives you a chance of avoiding the worst of the crowds, so why not take a chance on the weather and come out of season. Enjoy your stay!

Changes to the US visa waiver program

A headline on the news section of the BBC’s website caught my eye this morning. It read: “Iranian dual citizens fight new US visa rules”. I’ve never been to Iran but reading on, this article could have directly affected me, but for a few months. The article explained that any British citizen that had been to Syria in the last five years would no longer qualify for the visa waiver program; in other words, they couldn’t travel on an ESTA and would now have to apply for a visa.

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Spices for sale, Damascus 2010

 

I’ve checked my travel diary, in which I keep a list of the places I’ve been and the dates I visited. One of those is Syria. Now, the country is a no-go zone, but just a few short years ago, it was a different place, largely undiscovered by tourists. I wandered the souks of Aleppo and Damascus, travelling between them across the beautiful countryside on a modern train. I enjoyed a wonderful walk through Hama to a soundtrack of creaking norias. You can find out more about them here:
http://www.juliahammond.co.uk/Travel/Hama_time.html

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Noria by the river in Hama 2010

 

I went to Syria and neighbouring Jordan in Spring 2010 and the new regulations stipulate a cut off date of March 2011. That means I’m still good to go to one of my most favourite cities, New York, next May. I was worried, though I don’t regret visiting Syria back then for a moment.  Nor do I condemn the US government for passing such legislation; countries have a right to determine their own security and their own rules.

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Citadel of Aleppo 2010

 

It’s not just Brits and it’s not just Syria. The Wall Street Journal wrote: “Coming up with a comprehensive plan has been challenging. Instead, a piece-by-piece approach appears to be emerging. The initial step was legislation to put some restrictions on the visa-waiver program, which allows travelers from the 38 mostly European and Asian nations to enter the U.S. without obtaining a visa. The measure would ban people from those nations who had traveled to places including Iraq or Syria since March 2011 without first getting a visa. The bill, which passed 407-19, is supported by the White House and is expected to be wrapped into a must-pass spending bill and become law by year’s end.”

You can read the exact wording of the bill here:
https://www.congress.gov/bill/114th-congress/house-bill/158/text

A list of visa waiver countries can be found here:
http://travel.state.gov/content/visas/en/visit/visa-waiver-program.html

Currently, the restrictions affect those who have travelled since 1 March 2011 to Iraq, Syria and “any other country or area of concern designated by the Secretary of Homeland Security” (to be determined within 60 days). If, like me, you’re a fan of visiting unusual destinations, it looks like it’s going to be important to double check you still qualify to travel on an ESTA if you wish to visit the USA.

Blog roundup

See the Northern Lights in Russia this year

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Northern Lights over the hills surrounding Tromso

Seeing the Northern Lights was one of the most incredible sights I’ve ever seen. Like many, I opted for Scandinavia, being lucky enough to see them four nights running in Norway a few years ago and then once more in Iceland on the eve of my wedding. What few people realise, however, is that it’s also possible to view them in Russia, so here’s my post for Just Go Russia which has all the details:

See the Northern Lights in Russia this year

Visit Arrowtown’s Chinese Settlement

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Arrowtown’s Chinese settlement by Michael Button via Flickr CC-BY-2.0

Migrants have often had it tough, and the Cantonese immigrants trying to scratch a living gold panning in New Zealand were no exception. These men suffered great hardship and intolerance from many of the existing community; you’ll be shocked to find out what a former Prime Minister once said about them. Today, though, the Chinese settlement in Arrowtown is a fascinating place for an excursion and you can even pan for gold yourself afterwards. Find out more here in my post for Go4Travel:
http://www.go4travelblog.com/arrowtown-chinese-settlement-nz/

Exploring Bangkok using the Chao Phraya River ferries

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The Bangkok cityscape

I’ve been fortunate to have visited Thailand’s capital several times and I have to be honest, the ferries are what keeps me sane in all that horrendous traffic.  It’s so straightforward to hop on and hop off, and lots of the city’s major tourist attractions are within a short stroll of the piers.  My guide for Flight of the Gibbon contains everything you need to know.  You can read it here:
https://www.treetopasia.com/exploring-bangkok-using-the-chao-phraya-river-ferries

How to get the best out of a Heathrow layover (Part 2)

In my first blog on Heathrow layovers, I dealt with how you should go about getting into Central London.

Depending on how much time you have, there’s lots to do between flights – it’s London, after all – and you won’t be encumbered by heavy bags.  If you have something in mind but aren’t sure if it’s feasible, and it’s not featured here, drop me a line via Facebook (Julia Hammond Travel Writing) and I’ll give you some ideas.  Note: the time available is measured from when you emerge landside after landing to when you need to be back at the airport for your next flight.  Allow at least 60 minutes to get through security and to your gate; you don’t want to miss that onward flight!

Time available 4 hours: NOTTING HILL

You’ll need to keep a close eye on your time with this amount of time.  With this short a layover, you need to restrict yourself to the west of the capital.

Portobello Road Market

Portobello Road Market

My suggestion is a quick visit to Notting Hill, a vibrant neighbourhood where Julia Roberts once filmed, Jimi Hendrix died and The Clash called home.  Take the District or Circle lines two stops from Paddington to Notting Hill Gate and walk via Portobello Road, where you’ll find the famous market (stalls can be found in the area most days but it’s best to visit on Friday or Saturday) and there are some great eateries including the Hummingbird Bakery.  If you have time, the excellent Museum of Brands on Lancaster Road is worth a stop.

The Museum of Brands, Packaging and Advertising

The Museum of Brands, Packaging and Advertising

When you’re done, there’s no need to walk back to Notting Hill Gate.  Head back to Paddington from Ladbroke Grove tube station via the Circle or Hammersmith & City lines.

Time available 5 hours: MARYLEBONE

Marylebone, a neighbourhood squeezed between the West End’s shopping streets and beautiful Regent’s Park, is fast becoming the fashionable place to be seen in London.  With an extra hour for your layover, you should have time to pay a visit to Sherlock Holmes at 221B Baker Street.  Located between 237 and 241 Baker Street, it’s just a three minute walk from Baker Street Tube, linked to Paddington via the Bakerloo Line.

The Sherlock Holmes Museum

The Sherlock Holmes Museum

You’ll most likely see a policeman in a cape on the door, but be warned there’s often a queue to get in.   It’s open from 9.30am to 6pm.  Walk north from the museum and it’s only a few minutes to London’s beautiful Regent’s Park.  With its elegant Georgian mansions framing the park and a mixture of manicured lawns and open space, this is one of the capital’s most beloved green lungs.

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Regent’s Park

Cross over York Bridge, keeping an eye out for the herons sometimes seen here, and skirt the southern part of the park.  When you’re ready to leave, use Regent’s Park station, one stop along from Baker Street on the Bakerloo Line.  From there, it’s four stops back to Paddington or, if you have time, one stop down to Oxford Circus, still London’s main shopping artery and home to Selfridges & Co. department store, west of the tube station just past Bond Street.  Alternatively, Marylebone High Street and its neighbouring streets have plenty to offer in terms of quirky boutiques and historic landmarks.

Time available 6 hours or more: HAMPSTEAD

With longer between flights, the whole of London is at your fingertips, so why not try somewhere that’s a bit off the beaten tourist track? Hampstead requires a change of Tube trains but is well worth the effort; take the Hammersmith & City or Circle Line as far as Kings Cross or the Bakerloo Line to Embankment, and then change to the Edgware Road branch of the Northern Line to travel to Hampstead station. Total journey time is about 35 minutes, so don’t be put off.

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Hampstead “village”, packed with grand mansions and town houses

Hampstead feels more like a village in parts, but with phenomenal views from its vantage points across London, you can tick off the capital’s landmarks all at once. Try the view from Holly Mount, just down the road from the excellent Holly Bush pub or continue up to the Heath.

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The charming Holly Bush pub

Hampstead Heath is well worth the trek up the hill. Walking across this huge open space will make you forget you’re in one of the world’s largest cities and help you realise why it’s also one of the world’s most liveable cities. On your way, take a detour along Hampstead Grove and you’ll pass a small observatory run by the Hampstead Scientific Society. Inside is a 6″ Cooke refracting telescope dating from the turn of the 20th Century.

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View of London from Parliament Hill, Hampstead Heath by Ed Webster via Flickr CC BY 2.0

On your way back to the High Street, stop to take a look at the house once inhabited by Ernő Goldfinger of Trellick Tower fame, who lived at Number 2 Willow Road. Local resident Ian Fleming, creator of James Bond, hated the modernist structure and allegedly took his revenge by naming one of his Bond villains after the man responsible for the eyesore.

Of course, if you don’t fancy Notting Hill, or Marylebone, or Hampstead, then there’s always St Paul’s Cathedral, Buckingham Palace or Big Ben.  One short layover just isn’t going to be enough, of course, but these ideas surely beat staying in an airport lounge drinking coffee and browsing duty free shops.

And if you are tempted to come back, then why not try my Unanchor guide to London’s Villages, which consists of three day-long walking tours, one in each of the three locations featured above.  Packed with ideas and information, it’s available on Amazon as well as direct from Unanchor.com and can be downloaded as a PDF or straight to your Kindle. Here are the links: