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Packing tips from someone who learnt the hard way

1995.  The end of a six week holiday in Peru, my first big trip.  I’d been completely clueless when it came to packing, wondering how I’d fit six weeks’ worth of clothes into my suitcase (did I even have six weeks’ worth of clothes?) and trying to check in at the airport with the entire stock of Arequipa’s souvenir vendors. It took a lot of begging but I somehow managed to avoid excess baggage charges despite the fact that I couldn’t even lift my suitcase onto the weighing scales.  I was then the kind of traveller I laugh at now.  How easy it is to forget.

Peru Llama girls and Inca stonework

Cusco 1995

1997.  I’d downsized my suitcase, though not by much, and figured a lightweight trolley would help me drag it around Morocco.  The dust, potholes and uneven surfaces took their toll and once again I was heaving half my worldly goods on and off trains in the August heat.  It was uncomfortable, ineffective and something had to change.  A backpack was out as I could never trust my dodgy back to cope, and a little hard-sided wheelie became my saviour and trusty travelling companion for over a decade, only to be replaced when its lightweight sibling hit the market.  I’ve never looked back.

Morocco Djemaa water sellers (1)

Marrakesh 1997

Fitting my stuff into a tiny wheelie has taken practice, but I reckon now I’ve got it down to a fine art.  Here’s my top tips.

Take as few clothes as you can get away with

It’s never very far to a laundry.  Look for one that operates by weight rather than by individual item and avoid hotel laundries like the plague.  Alternatively, pack a couple of washing capsules in a small plastic tub and do it yourself in a self-service laundrette.  You’ll meet local people and who knows where that might lead?

Pack things that work together

Take clothes that don’t need ironing and roll them as you pack them to avoid any creases.  Make sure everything goes together and never take something just in case you might need it – you won’t.  Don’t forget a swimsuit and flip flops.  Forget about a hair drier or straighteners.  You’re on holiday, who cares?

Wear the heavy stuff

Hiking boots are bulky and heavy.  They’ll take up way too much space in your suitcase so if you need them, travel in them.  Ditto a thick fleece or coat; if you don’t need it in your plane/train/automobile you can fold it up and use it as a pillow. Ignore anyone who says you can do that with a sarong.  They’re just not thick enough to be any good.

Decant toiletries to travel sized containers

In terms of shampoo and the like, you’re really only taking emergency rations.  Reasonable hotels and guest houses will provide toiletries anyway.  If they don’t, you’re never far from a supermarket to go and buy some.

Take wipes instead of bottles

When it comes to insect repellent, take plenty.  It’s not always possible to buy it and there’s nothing that spoils a good holiday faster than a leg full of itchy bites.  Sprays are messy.  Take individually-wrapped wipes instead and as your travels progress, you are making space for shopping.  Don’t forget some wet wipes too to clean your hands afterwards, but again, choose the flat plastic packs not the rigid tubs.

Consider posting things home

A word of caution needed here, obviously.  Don’t post anything you’d be devastated to lose and be prepared for things to take months to get home.  I’ve successfully sent books from Cuba, a bulky throw from Turkey and even dirty laundry!  No matter what the vendors say, though, breakable stuff will rarely be packed well enough to make the journey back unscathed.

Have you got a tip you’d like to share?  I’d love to hear from you!

Are these the world’s best railway journeys?

This week, in preparation for my upcoming trip to Sri Lanka, I’ve been booking train tickets to explore the country’s beautiful hill country.  The Man in Seat 61 has, of course, been an invaluable tool as ever, and I’ve been very impressed with the service provided by Visit Sri Lanka Tours, a recommendation gleaned from Seat 61.  It’s got me thinking about previous rail journeys I’ve taken.  These are my favourites, but are they yours?

Peru: Cusco to Machu Picchu

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Machu Picchu, Peru’s mighty Inca citadel

Before tourist numbers reached epic proportions, to reach Machu Picchu by train you used to have to crawl out of bed in the dark to catch the early morning local train from central Cusco’s gloomy station, travel for five hours as the wooden bench seating slowly petrified your buttocks and emerge blinking into the middle of the market at Aguas Calientes to find your diesel-belching ride to the famous mountaintop Inca ruins.  Periodically, the train halted in the dark to facilitate trade.  Hands used to appear through the tiny windows to offer roasted corn and alpaca wool hats.  It was one of those iconic travel journeys that is better relived from the comfort of your armchair several months later.  Taking the journey again years later, this time in a glass-roofed backpacker train (boy, hadn’t backpacker expectations grown?!) I was delighted to see that snow-capped peaks lined the route and that the PeruRail authorities had built a fancy new station.  The increase in comfort was worth the hike in the fare and best of all, the switchbacks to enable the train to haul the train out of Cusco’s bowl-shaped valley were still the most fascinating stretch of the journey.  Then, in 2010, flooding and landslides caused severe damage to the track and when repairs were completed, the train began from Poroy, just outside the city, rather than from Cusco’s Wanchaq station.  Despite the changes, it remains one of the best railway journeys in the world.

Switzerland: the Bernina Express

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The Landwasser viaduct from the Bernina Express

It’s hard to pick a favourite amongst so many standout lines, but if forced to choose, then the Bernina Express gets my vote.  Run by the Rhaetian Railway, the Bernina Express covers two lines which together comprise a UNESCO World Heritage site – Albula and Bernina.  During its 122km run from Chur to the Italian town of Tirano, the train passes through 55 tunnels and over 196 bridges and viaducts including the spectacular Landwasser Viaduct pictured here.  To fully appreciate this engineering marvel, take a local train (the panoramic picture windows don’t open), head to the back and lean out of a right hand side window.  The train loops and glides over the Bernina Pass, with the Morteratsch and Palü glaciers and alpine Lago Bianco darker Lej Nair lakes providing the glamour in terms of scenery.  With no cogwheels aiding its descent, this impressive adhesion railway has one final wow up its sleeve: the 360° spiral that encompasses the nine arches of the century-old Brusio Viaduct.

Kenya: the Lunatic Express

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Mombasa’s beach, the prize for those surviving the Lunatic Express

I first read about this railway in Bill Bryson’s African Diary.  His descriptions of being flung around as if being tumbled in a washing machine were as compelling as you’d expect from the undisputed king of humourous travel writing and I decided there and then I’d make the same journey.  This narrow gauge railway runs from Nairobi to the coast at Mombasa, cutting through Tsavo National Park on its way.  It gained its unusual nickname as several workers involved in its construction ended up as dinner for the hungry lions, dragged from their tents as they slept exhausted from the day’s hard labour.  I didn’t see any lions, just a beautiful sunset over the savannah plains, though I was plagued by hungry mosquitoes and arrived in Mombasa covered in bites.

The best of the rest!

Russia: Trans-Mongolian

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Omul on sale at Listvyanka, on the shores of Lake Baikal

The longest rail trip I’ve done, with a trip that took me from Moscow to the Mongolian capital Ulan Bator by train.  I saw a lot of trees, but I also learned first hand what a warm and welcoming bunch of people the Russians are: a special mention here for Aleksander the army officer who fed me smoked omul and showed me his family photos.

New Zealand: Tranz-Alpine

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Serene Lake Brunner

Not the Alps in Europe, but instead, New Zealand’s South Island.  Crossing from Christchurch to Greymouth, this scenic ride crossed Arthur’s Pass and chugged alongside pretty Lake Brunner.  Wrap up warm if you’re going to ride the open air viewing car in winter as I did – it’s freezing!

Update: I’ve just booked a ride on the Northern Explorer to see more of North Island out of a Kiwi Rail train window.  Watch out in 2018 to see how I got on.

Intercourse is only three miles from Paradise

It might not always seem like it, but Paradise is within reach.  Film fans might recognise it as the setting for the 1994 Christmas crime caper, “Trapped in Paradise” starring Nicolas Cage.  It was filmed in Ontario, Canada and has terrible reviews, so don’t rush to see it if you haven’t already.  The real Paradise is a pleasant place, with an old mill and farming country surrounding it favoured by Amish settlers.

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Lancaster County Amish by Utente CC-BY-SA-3.0 via Wikimedia

Paradise isn’t one of those places that’s packed full of sights, but you’ll find a few worthy visitor attractions in and around the place, including a bakery at nearby Dutch Haven which has been making Shoo-Fly Pie since 1946.  Similar to a treacle tart, it’s made with molasses and is thought to have got its name because the sweet smell attracted flies which needed to be shooed away.

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Shoo-Fly pie by Syounan Taji CC-BY-SA-3.0 via Wikipedia

Nearby Intercourse lies about three miles to the north, in the heart of Amish country.  It’s another filming location, this time the setting for the Harrison Ford movie “Witness” and unlike in the case of Paradise, the scenes were actually shot in town.  Its name dates from 1814, the time when villagers ditched the moniker “Cross Keys” in favour of Intercourse.

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Intercourse keystone marker by Doug Kerr CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia

The origin of the name and reasons for the change are a little unclear but could be after a nearby racecourse called Entercourse.  It might instead be a reference to the intersection between the Old King’s Highway and the road from Delaware. And of course, it could derive from the meaning fellowship or social interaction.  Whatever the case, it’s a good place to head to pick up some traditional arts and crafts, hand made furniture or even take a buggy ride.  And speaking from experience, those buggies get up some speed!
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Intercourse, PA by Jon Dawson via Flickr CC BY-ND 2.0

Why you should ride Amtrak at least once

There’s still a certain romance about train travel and especially overnight rail journeys. Tonight, after his successful programmes in the UK and Europe featuring Bradshaw’s guide, Michael Portillo begins a new series and this time he’s heading Stateside. I’ve ridden a few Amtrak trains, mostly on short hops such as New York to Philadelphia, but last summer did a few longer legs, making the journey from New York to New Orleans with stops in Syracuse, Chicago and Champaign-Urbana. Here’s what I learnt.

Don’t rush

The biggest cause of complaint from my fellow passengers was the slow speed of the train.  Freight takes priority so it’s common to crawl along or sit for ages in a siding until a long line of containers rumbles past.  Go with it.  Don’t book any tight connections, pack a book or something to pass the time and make sure you have plenty of snacks and drinks in case the station café is closed.  Break your journey and savour your surroundings.

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Chicago is a good choice for a stopover

It’s worth stopping off en route

I had some work to do on my book Hammond, Me which took me to Hammond NY (nearest station Syracuse), Hammond IL (nearest station Champaign-Urbana) and Hammond LA (which actually had its own station!) Of these, I really enjoyed Hammond LA which had a sleepy charm and a café selling the best iced lemonade I’ve found in a long time. Many people think that you can’t see America without a car, but that’s not true of everywhere. Do your homework (and check where the station is located) and you’ll find you can do a rail trip without needing to drive.

It’s worth paying for a bed

In terms of cost per hour, the price of overnight travel using Amtrak is more expensive than comparable journeys in Europe, especially if you book sleeper accommodation. Needing to take two overnight trains, I decided to break my journey in Chicago, opting for a seat on the first leg and the quaintly named Roomette on the second leg down to Louisiana. The overnight part with a seat from Syracuse to Chicago cost about £51 while the overnight Roomette from Champaign-Urbana to Hammond Louisiana cost £156.

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The cosy Roomette: great for one, cramped for two

That’s steep. Are you sure it’s worth the upgrade?

For the extra money, I had a Roomette for single occupancy, whereas the reclining seat was in a full carriage. Travelling with a lockable wheelie, I wasn’t worried about the security aspects; in such a busy carriage, it would have been hard for a thief to operate. But many people, despite the late hour, were glued to smart phones or tablets and my allocated seat was next to a young man playing video games. Even with the sound off, the flicker and movement of the screen wasn’t conducive to a good night’s rest. I managed to move, but didn’t really arrive rested. In contrast, I had a solid seven hours’ sleep on the comfortable bed in my snug Roomette (think cupboard with a door) and enjoyed an included breakfast. Service was attentive and all in all it was a pleasant experience. But yes, it was expensive for what you got. For less than a third of that price, I travelled from Munich to Berlin in a luxury private compartment, en-suite toilet and shower and breakfast delivered to my room.

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Make friends with the train staff

Any tips?

Befriend the onboard staff as they can help make your journey extra comfortable, supplying extra pillows, making your room up first and ensuring you get the meal sitting of your choice. Also, book early, as prices do go up considerably and sleeper compartments sell out. Make sure you’ve worked out how to get to the rail station as they aren’t always central as they are in Europe. Transport connections can be limited and you’ll either have to take a taxi or walk. But above all, do it. This is one American adventure that should be on everyone’s bucket list.

The Devil reads Pravda?

Putin’s “Don’t mess with me” attitude and his questionable actions and policies have given Russia back its bad name.  But don’t let that put you off visiting: Russia’s an absorbing and diverse country which deserves your attention.  The reality of a holiday in Russia is is as far removed from the country’s political reputation as it gets: http://travelexperts.justgorussia.co.uk/2015/10/13/whats-it-really-like-to-holiday-in-russia-nowadays/

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Steve Sack, Star Tribune

When I took a rail holiday following the Trans-Mongolian route, I had no idea what to expect, but my most enduring memory from that fortnight is of the warmth of the Russian people. From the army officer who shared his food and photos of his wife to the little old lady who made sure I got the right bus back to Irkutsk from Lake Baikal, I experienced a welcome that, if I’m honest, I didn’t expect.  You can read more about it here: http://travelexperts.justgorussia.co.uk/2015/11/03/russia-by-rail/

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Family time by Lake Baikal

Really, the only gruffness came from the guards at Lenin’s Mausoleum who shooed me on when I paused just a little too long to look at that waxy body.  The provodnitsas on my trains ran a tight ship, for sure, but they needed to make sure everything ran smoothly – who wants to witness an altercation from a sleeping compartment when you didn’t plan to get off the train for three days?

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High kicks of which a dancer would be proud

For me, Russia was a country of immense beauty; from Suzdal’s magical churches to the tumbledown wooden shacks of rural Siberia, the country presented photo opportunity after photo opportunity.

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Suzdal is packed full of historic churches

Moscow was fascinating, and aside from rather wet walk through flooded streets on arrival, a city I enjoyed immensely. The language and alphabet are different, but didn’t prove an insurmountable problem, and there are plenty of companies out there to assist with booking train tickets and securing visas.

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If all else fails, look for somewhere with a picture menu

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Or an English menu!

My advice is to go. You’re hardly likely to bump into Putin in a country that size.  Why not read some more of my blogs for Just Go Russia and see what you’d be missing.  Here are just a few:

A diverse country http://travelexperts.justgorussia.co.uk/2015/10/12/dobry-den-welcome/

Northern Lights http://travelexperts.justgorussia.co.uk/2015/12/10/see-the-northern-lights-in-russia-this-year/

Historic treasures http://travelexperts.justgorussia.co.uk/2015/10/30/the-kremlins-hidden-treasures/

Enjoy your trip!