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Are business class flights really worth the extra?

I recently had the opportunity to travel business class across the Atlantic from London to New York.  I’ve always been of the opinion that I’d rather spend my holiday budget on accommodation and activities at my destination rather than on travel to it.  An opportunity to fly business class with British Airways for less than the price of an economy ticket was too good to resist – more about that in a later post – so for the first time I crossed the pond in style.

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So what did I think?

Lounge access

Heathrow’s Terminal 5 has two business class lounges but I was tipped off that South Lounge was the better of the two, so that’s where I headed after a very pleasant fast track security experience.  I was very pleased to find a decent breakfast spread and had several yummy pastries, read the paper, hooked up to the free WiFi and relaxed in the nice padded chairs while I waited to board the aircraft.  All very civilised, though I don’t really mind the bustle of airside especially where there’s somewhere decent to get a coffee.

Boarding

The thing I hate most about boarding these days?  The fact that because everyone is carrying such an enormous amount of carry on luggage, the overhead bins fill up.  Consequently, there’s a mad dash to get in the queue to board so you avoid having to do a long haul flight with a bag squashed between your legs.  Now this is somewhere that business class scores highly: there are fewer people fighting for bin space and you get to queue jump and board when you like.  Of course the amount of stress in the economy cabin could also be reduced if the carry on weight and size limit was reduced to something sensible as opposed to the current policy of “bring the kitchen sink or the equivalent, we’ll cram it in somehow”.

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Settling in

I was a little nervous I’d show myself up by not being able to work the controls of the flat bed seat.  I’ve only flown business class once before, a short hop from JFK to Dallas Fort Worth after being snowbound in New York for so many days the American Airlines call centre staff just wanted to get rid of me, and in any case that was a regular seat.  In reality, I had nothing to worry about.  Raising and lowering the privacy screen was the hardest part (and not exactly difficult) but the actual seat controls were a piece of cake.  The addition of pink champagne was a bonus.  I broke my own rule of always flying sober, but only because it felt rude not to take the glass that was proffered, you understand.

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Would you like to fly backwards or forwards, Madam?

I’d been advised to try to get a window seat as with the screen up, you were in a little cocoon.  Taking off and landing backwards felt very odd.  That said, the rest of the flight was fine and it was great to be tucked away.  So tucked away, in fact, that when I finally uncurled myself to pop to the toilet (disappointingly cramped), I was amazed to see everyone else lying flat.  If I have to be critical (I feel I ought to be objective), I’d say the footrest was a bit of a stretch.  Oh the hardship!  Her Ladyship had to reach forward a little to put her feet up.

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The food

Oh the food!  A delicious sounding menu was presented.  It basically said I could eat them out of house and home – and then they’d bring me more.  Take a look at the feast that I consumed:

And the invitation to just pig out…  I love the line: “Of course the best thing about tasty treats is eating them rather than reading about them…”  Of course.  Of course!  Pass the Cadburys.

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Actually, in reality I was so stuffed I could barely shuffle to the Club Kitchen, let alone raid it.  Note to self: if you ever the chance again to fly business class long haul, make it to Sydney or Auckland.  Or at the very least to LAX.

Arrival

Having reached JFK at least three dress sizes larger than when I left Heathrow, I came down to earth with a bump to join the long queue into the US.  At least the whole of the economy cabin were behind me.  I don’t mean that in a condescending way.  I’m usually quick off the mark out of the plane and walk relatively fast, meaning most of the economy cabin are behind me when I disembark from an economy seat too.  This time, however, with all that free food and drink sloshing around inside me, I had to walk slowly to make sure I didn’t spill any.

The return

Until I realised I could be reclining flat on the outbound leg, I’d been most looking forward to the return journey.  Sadly, this wasn’t to be as good.  Although I was upstairs, supposedly better, I was in an aisle seat – nowhere near as peaceful as being tucked away by the window.  And being one of BA’s sleeper services due to the late departure, I’d planned on eating in the lounge before take off, but found a rather unappetising buffet presented in the lounge at JFK.  If this sounds like I’m complaining, I’m not, any free food is good as far as I’m concerned, but it wasn’t the gourmet experience I had on the outbound leg.  Nor was the service as attentive or as friendly, but in the crew’s defence, we’d had a three hour delay to take off and no one was happy.

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So what’s the verdict?

Based on the outbound leg particularly, I’d say you are made to feel very special in business class.  I enjoyed being addressed by name.  It is also a real treat to eat the meals course by course and not have to juggle plastic pots in a confined space.  I loved the flat bed and found it very comfortable; I don’t usually snatch more than an hour or two’s sleep on a standard economy flight and yet on this I was sleeping so soundly I was dreaming.  Fast tracking through security at Heathrow was very welcome.  I’m not sure why the same service wasn’t available at JFK, though in fairness it may have been because of the delays and the need to process everyone as quickly as possible so they didn’t miss their flights.

All in all it was an experience I’d be delighted to repeat, though not one that justifies spending such a huge amount more.  But keep an eye on this blog.  Soon I’ll tell you how I achieved this journey for less than the price of an economy ticket – perfectly legit and no air miles needed.

New York’s latest project? The Lowline Lab

Hot on the heels of the High Line, the elevated railway turned park which is now one of New York City’s best loved attractions, there comes a bold newcomer. Following the same tradition of cutting edge conceptual development, imaginative design and community involvement, a new way of injecting green space into the Big Apple’s concrete jungle is underway. It’s officially called Delancey Underground but unsurprisingly, everyone’s nicknamed it the Lowline.

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A small group of talented individuals led by James Ramsey and Dan Barasch have been working on trialling a technology which would enable natural sunlight to be harvested and transferred underground in order to grow plants for a subterranean garden. The Lowline Lab, as the testing site is called, houses around three thousand plants in the former market building on Essex Street. It occupies a site about 5% of the proposed end result, large enough to give the visitor a sense of what the Lowline might one day be like.

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This Lower East Side location has not been selected by chance. In fact, this is one of the most built up areas of a city blessed with squares and neighbourhood parks. A growing population and substantial redevelopment in the LES puts paid to any hopes of removing concrete and tarmac from any above-ground real estate so burrowing underground was the logical choice. With a suitable location identified – the long abandoned Williamsburg Bridge trolley terminal – all that had to happen was for technology to catch up.

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Working in collaboration with a number of specialist firms, the committed Lowline staff and volunteers have developed an impressive system of mirrors and tubes which feed light off the street and into the dark depths of the derelict market. Last October, the project set about testing whether plants could survive the New York winter when shorter daylight hours in theory wouldn’t provide the right environment for them to thrive. In fact, the opposite has been true and it has even proved possible to grow viable plants from seed. Spanish moss hangs from the ceiling, trailing down towards a plywood platform carpeted in shade tolerant ferns, exotic succulents and verdant shrubs. Seedlings labelled with lolly sticks emphasise the newness and experimental nature of the project.

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With the market earmarked by developers, the Lowline Lab was set to close in March 2016 but a stay of execution was granted as the developers postponed their plans. Now, the Lowline Lab will be open to visitors until at least March 2017. This extension has brought with it new challenges, not least a plethora of pesky insects that have been as thrilled to move into their new neighbourhood digs as the human residents have been to repurpose them. Undeterred, the Lowline team have implemented a series of measures that will ensure that the experience of visiting this innovative underground garden isn’t marred by a thick cloud of midges. Nematodes have been placed in the soil to good effect, though the introduction of carnivorous plants has been less successful, partly because visitors have been tempted to touch their snapping jaws themselves.

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With feasibility studies complete, politicians and community groups on side, support (though not funds) from owners MTA and a steady stream of interested visitors to the Lab itself, there are just a few fundraising and logistical hurdles to overcome. It seems the project could well come to fruition. At present, the team are confident they’ll have the Lowline up and running by 2020 or thereabouts. In the meantime, I’d strongly recommend that if you’re in New York one weekend before next March you take a trip down to 140 Essex Street and check out the Lab for yourself.

It’s almost time to go to the airport

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Dennis Potter’s famous quote sums it up perfectly:

“I did not fully understand the dread term “terminal illness” until I saw Heathrow for myself.”

Another trip is looming and with it, the love-hate feelings that come with beginning that trip at an airport. A necessary evil, of course, if you’re intending to go long haul and back without taking a six-month sabbatical or trading in a regular job for work on a cruise ship. This time it’s Gatwick. I’m not thrilled about the place, though I don’t feel the same loathing for it as I do for Heathrow.

The immigration hall at Heathrow is the worldly embodiment of hell. But at least I don’t have to face it for a while. I’m OK with Gatwick. Baggage reclaim there is a whole other matter but I must stay strong and limit myself to carry on.

But to return, I first have to leave.

If only I could time it right so I could sweep through the airport and onto the plane in one elegant motion, like cabin crew or Kim Kardashian or something. The reality, alas, is more like the Tom Hanks film The Terminal, where instead I feel like I’ve moved in. My stress level rockets unless I’m at the airport at least three hours before my flight leaves. I usually end up pacing up and down the concourse wandering aimlessly in and out of various retail outlets browsing at things I have no need for and certainly no intention of buying. At least Gatwick has normal shops. I like the kind of shops that can help me out with the essentials I’ve just realised I’ve forgotten to pack: toothpaste and hair bands and excessively large chocolate bars, not stuff like caviar and silk ties and other crap that only rich tourists will be impressed with.

If I’m not de-stocking Boots, I’m buying expensive coffee to ensure I need the bathroom just as the monitor flashes up my flight’s final call. Is there ever a stage between wait in lounge and final call? Even as I tell myself it can’t possibly be a final call as my flight isn’t scheduled to leave for another hour I feel a deep seated panic and race off to the gate to find no boarding is happening whatsoever. With all the travelling I do, I should know better. I really should.

Perhaps the call goes out early so there’s plenty of time to get lost. Douglas Adams, in The Long Dark Tea-Time of the Soul, wryly observed that airport planners seek:

“wherever possible to expose the plumbing on the grounds that it is functional, and conceal the location of the departure gates, presumably on the grounds that they are not.”

But at least our British airports don’t conceal the check in desks behind a plain white wall, as the Russians did in Ulan Ude when I visited it. Now that really was a challenge. It takes a really special kind of planner to design an airport like that. I can only assume the sign writer charged such exorbitant prices that the budget wouldn’t stretch that far. For once I was glad I’d rocked up three hours early. It took almost all of that time to find out where to drop my bag.

Should we adapt to a no-frills travel style?

The travel press is focusing on speculation concerning British Airways and its possible policy change in charging for food on short haul routes.  Read more about it here: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/comment/british-airways-to-charge-for-meals-budget-airline/

Following the stratospheric growth of the low-cost sector, full service scheduled airlines have had to work harder to attract passengers whose prime consideration is price.  Living close to Stansted and Southend airports, it’s very rare for me to travel to Heathrow or Gatwick (or God forbid Luton during school holidays) unless I absolutely have to, so the likes of easyJet and Ryanair have been my go-to airlines for short hops for a couple of decades now.

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Lithuania in the off season

Over the years, bargain flights have taken me to pretty much every country in Europe.  From Kaunas (Lithuania) to Malmo (Sweden), I’ve never let the fact that I’ve not heard of a destination stand in the way of a cheap fare.  And neither have I worried about the extras, happily paring down my luggage and printing off my boarding passes at home to avoid fees that some whine about.  If I can get halfway across the continent for thirty quid, then quite frankly I don’t give a stuff if they feed me or not.  It’s not like most airline food is anything to rave about.

So to be honest, I don’t really understand the fuss.  On the very short flights like, say, London to Amsterdam, cabin crew have to practically throw the food at you to get down the aisle and back before the fasten seat belt signs come back on.  If you’re only in the air for an hour, is it really so bad to do without a drink or a snack?  And if you’re that bothered, buy a bottle of water and a chocolate bar airside and take it on with you.

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Tulips from Amsterdam, where they also sell food should you leave the airport hungry

I like these bargain basement fares – and who doesn’t?  I’ve never understood the logic in flying business class on short haul routes (they’re often the exact same seats for heaven’s sake!) or upgrading to speedy boarding (do these people not realise that the plane still won’t take off until the last person’s on too?)

I don’t even care who I sit with.  It’s nice to chat to my travelling companion but it’s not a deal breaker if I’m separated for an hour or two.  It even happened on my Wow Air flight to Iceland to get married, but then my fiance and I were the last to check in so it did serve us right.  Who knows, the person that has the pleasure of my company might be more entertaining.  (Apologies to those who are reading this having been a travelling companion of mine in the past – I don’t mean you, obviously.)

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The Sun Voyager statue, Reykjavik

And therein lies my point.  The travel industry is evolving to cope with a changing economic climate and we need to adapt too.  The days of flying being a glamorous affair reserved for the rich and famous are long gone.  So ditch the suitcase, have a drink before you board and eat when you get there – no frills travel is here to stay!

Head Stateside this summer

It’s fast approaching Memorial Day in the USA, the day for Americans to remember those who died fighting for their country. It falls on the last Monday in May, which this year is May 30th. For visitors, that weekend more or less marks the beginning of the tourist season for those attractions that open only during the summer months. In New York, for instance, that’s when the new Gansevoort Market is expected to open and the weekend Governor’s Island kicks off its summer season. For many Brits, a holiday in the USA means taking the kids to Florida’s theme parks, or perhaps a shopping trip to the Big Apple. The reality is, of course, that there is so much more.

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Lower Manhattan as viewed from the Staten Island Ferry

I’m often surprised to read on travel forums that people write the country off because of its draconian immigration procedures, when in fact in my experience it’s rarely worse than anywhere else. Some even claim that the $14 ESTA is a deal breaker – seriously, a £9 charge on a long haul holiday? That’s hardly going to leave you without spending money. I’ve travelled a lot in the States and I can honestly say, Florida aside, (I’m no fan of the Mouse) I’ve never begrudged paying it to see such incredible and varied scenery. So, to mark Memorial Day, here’s my pick of America’s very best tourist spots. It’s been hard to whittle them down and I could easily add more.

This Memorial Day weekend I’m going to be in my favourite US city – New York. Where are you going to be?

A float trip in the Grand Tetons

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Bad skies in the Badlands

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New Orleans

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Pike Place Market, Seattle

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Savannah’s squares

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Bar Harbor – lobster and beer

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The Rodeo at Cody

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Canyons, rock arches and more, Utah

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The Mummer’s Parade, Philadelphia

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Las Vegas’ Neon Museum

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Big skies and glaciers, Montana

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The Bronx, New York

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Monterey’s Cannery Row

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Elegant Charleston

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Running with the llamas, Hammond Wisconsin

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So are you tempted?  What’s your favourite US destination and why?