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No updates as yet on The Itin’s launch date, though you’ll read it here when they’re ready Stateside.  In the meantime, can I tempt you wine lovers with this, my latest blog on New Zealand?  I have bunches of grapes ripening on my own back garden vines as I write, but they’ve got nothing on this: http://www.go4travelblog.com/explore-wairarapa-new-Zealand/

Lake Wairarapa, near to the wineries of Martinborough  Photo by K1w1m0nk1e CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

Lake Wairarapa, near to the wineries of Martinborough Photo by K1w1m0nk1e CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons

A special mention in the Bradt Independent travel writing competition

Today the six finalists for this year’s Bradt Independent travel writing competition were revealed. I wasn’t among them, but this year have received a “Special Mention” which is my best achievement so far after a few goes at entering this prestigious annual contest. See who’s made the cut here and then read my piece, which will feature in my “Hammond, Me” book next year.
http://www.bradtguides.com/articles/cat/news-competitions/post/travel-writing-2015-finalists/

Cornfields surround Hammond, IL

Cornfields surround Hammond, IL

Three little girls in Illinois

As I swung off the road and onto the gravel, I didn’t see those three little girls.

The country town, small enough to be considered no more than a village in Britain, was pretty much deserted. Surrounded by cornfields and bisected by a railroad that carried only freight, the only thing that crossed the faulted concrete of Hammond’s main street was dust. A few stray leaves hugged the kerb. Aside from a post office and a rough-looking bar, there was little evidence of business; that which was there appeared to be hanging on by the skin of its teeth.

Houses, mostly, lined the road. Some were humble and unkempt, paint flaking. Others, grand in comparison, had rocking chairs on wooden verandas and neat picket fences. A semi minus its trailer occupied one front yard, but the neighbours’ rusting cars indicated that not everyone here had a decent job.

I’d parked up to take a photo of the water tower. It had Hammond written on one side and bore a smiley face on the other, its optimism incongruous with the general feel of the place.

The water tower at Hammond, IL

The water tower at Hammond, IL

As I crossed the street, I heard a child crying. Immediately after, I heard an older child, exasperated, telling her to shut up. I glanced over to see there was also a third girl. She chose not to take sides, though her body language told me she was irritated by the interruption to her play time.

The little girl, whose age I guessed to be around five, looked to me for comfort, getting none from her big sister. “Lady, I hurt my knee.”

“Oh sweetheart,” I soothed, “what did you do?”

“She was runnin’ and fell over,” said the older, bossy sister, in a tone loaded with self-righteousness that told me it was her sister’s own fault and any sympathy I may have was misplaced.

More tears, increasingly agitated from the fear I would side with Bossy.

“Does it hurt?” I asked, already knowing the answer but keen to distract.

“Yes, it hurts a lot! Can you fix it?”

“Well, I have some Wet Wipes in my car over there, so I could certainly clean it up a bit,” I suggested, not knowing if Wet Wipes translated.

Bossy interjected. “We aren’t allowed to cross the road.” She spoke with a finality that suggested her kid sister didn’t deserve to anyway.

No traffic had passed while we’d been speaking.

“How about I go and get the Wet Wipes and you wait here?” Bossy looked suspicious and I was well aware that those kids probably shouldn’t be talking to strangers, even benevolent ones. To the little girl though, the tiny rivulet of congealing blood running from her knee was reason enough for her to trust me, even if it was going to get her in big trouble with her sister later.

I grabbed the wipes and a sticking plaster and hurried back. As I gently cleaned up the small cut and gently smoothed on the plaster, the sobs subsided and she began to chat.

“My name’s Chloe and these are my big sisters. Where are you from? You talk different.”

I told her, and she sounded impressed. “You’re the first person I’ve ever met from Eng-land,” she said, splitting the word in two.

Curiosity began to get the better of Bossy too. I fielded several questions before asking her whether Hammond was a good place to live.

“Yes.” She hung on the word, drawing it out for emphasis. “We have lots of friends here and we get to play in the street.”

I couldn’t help but think about some of the children I knew back home, complaining about how little there was to do in the large town in which we lived, with parks, cafes, clubs and all manner of distractions. We said our goodbyes and the three girls headed back down the street. I allowed myself a smile as I finally heard the middle child speak. “She was a kind lady”.

Life was simple in Hammond, and happiness came in the form of a plaster.

The best places to ride a horse on holiday

“This is so relaxing we could almost be on holiday.” So said my fellow novice during our riding lesson in Belfairs Woods this morning. She had a point, give or take a bit of extra bounce on the rising trot and a near miss with an excitable puppy. It got me thinking of the places I’d ridden on my travels and what it was that I’d enjoyed so much. Here are a few of my favourite excursions in the saddle.

Copan Ruinas, Honduras

Riding with the cowboys up near the border with Guatemala

Riding with the cowboys up near the border with Guatemala


Honduras’ reputation packs quite a punch, but the sleepy town of Copan Ruinas is about as far removed from the gang-related problems of San Pedro Sula as you can get, yet it’s only a short bus ride away. I did several rides while I was there, the first of which took me from Finca El Cisne, a coffee, cardamom and cattle and ranch, to the hills up by the Guatemalan border. Led by Carlos, whose folks own the ranch, the scene stealer that day wasn’t one of the horses, but instead the family Basset Hound, Chito, who happily bounded alongside us the whole way.

Moab, Utah

After the ride, back at Red Cliffs Lodge

After the ride, back at Red Cliffs Lodge


Utah’s spectacular scenery was always going to be memorable, so following in the footsteps of none other than John Wayne himself, we spent a pleasant morning on horseback in the hills outside Moab. We followed the well-worn trail along Castle Creek and surveyed Castle Rock under blue skies and to a cacophony of farts provided by a horse called Gus.

San Antonio de Areco, Argentina

The skill of the gaucho is legendary

The skill of the gaucho is legendary


In Argentina a few years ago, I seized upon the chance to spend the day at La Cinacina ranch a few hours from Buenos Aires. From a typical asado to folkloric dancing, every aspect of gaucho life was recreated for us, but the highlight was without a doubt the riding. We novices had a go, with varying degrees of success ranging from inelegant dismounts (most of us) to a stallion who threw his rider (an unfortunate Italian) mid-canter. We dismounted, the experts showed us how it was done as they performed carreras de sortijas where at full gallop, they speared a tiny ring with the shortest of sticks. Now that’s skilful riding if I ever saw it.

Petra, Jordan

Horse and carriage exiting the Siq

Horse and carriage exiting the Siq


Petra is reached through a narrow, dusty fault in the rock known as the Siq, and the entrance ticket includes a transfer on horseback to its entrance. Care needs to be taken when dealing with the horsemen, who can be very persistent in their requests for a tip, and the only equine transport through the Siq is via horse and carriage. I opted to finish my journey on foot, and savour the moment when the Treasury is revealed in all its crafted splendour.

And finally, here’s one I’d rather forget…

Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic

Never take a horse ride in the midday sun

Never take a horse ride in the midday sun


Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun, so go the lyrics of the famous Noel Coward song, and how I wish I’d heeded those words two decades ago while trying out riding under a strong Caribbean sun. The horse was placid enough, but the sun was a whole other matter, and I ended up passing out from heatstroke in the bathroom of the restaurant where we’d stopped for lunch. That’ll teach me not to wear a hat!

Five steps to becoming an expert haggler

Haggling can seem daunting at first, but it’s all part of the travel experience. Here’s a few tips to get you on your way.

Browse formal souvenir shops to get an idea of prices

Before starting to negotiate, you really need an idea of what’s a reasonable price. A good place to start is with fixed price shops. They’ll add on a mark up to cover overheads and running costs, of course, but you’ll get to see what kinds of prices are charged for goods of the quality you require.

Window display in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

Window display in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

Be good humoured

Haggling is theatre, and part of the travel experience, but it’s also how the vendor is making a living. Smile a lot, be nice and build a rapport with the sales person. Getting aggressive or angry isn’t going to get you a better deal, and nor is it going to make you feel good about the place you’re in.

Mamadou in Senegal, who taught me how to play his bean game before I bought it

Mamadou in Senegal, who taught me how to play his bean game before I bought it

Remember this is someone’s livelihood

A few dollars or dirhams off the price for won’t make much difference in the grand scheme of things, but in some countries, it could make a huge difference to a family’s income. Before you demand too low a price, think about what’s a fair discount and what might be a price that only a desperate seller would be forced to agree to. In general, the rule of thumb is to settle on a figure about half what was originally stated, but it’s not an exact science.

Jacques Eugene in Croix des Bouquets, Haiti, with his amazing metalwork pieces

Jacques Eugene in Croix des Bouquets, Haiti, with his amazing metalwork pieces

Don’t make promises you won’t keep

Once you offer a price, etiquette demands that you pay up if it’s agreed to, so don’t make an offer you’ve got no plans to honour. Think about what the item’s worth to you and don’t offer what you don’t intend to pay. If you find yourself in a situation that is getting awkward, look for an outcome where no one loses face. Be positive about the product and apologise for the fact that it’s beyond your budget.

It's tempting to show an interest in what might be impractical to take home

It’s tempting to show an interest in what might be impractical to take home

Getting rid of a persistent hawker

Sometimes, pester power is the local norm, and it can be hard to shake off sellers that just won’t take no for an answer. If a polite “No, thank you” or “I’m just looking today” doesn’t cut it, you might need to be more creative. Suggesting that you’re looking for a particular colour or design that you know the vendor doesn’t have in stock might just work.

How do you choose when it all looks great?

How do you choose when it all looks great?

Blog updates

You may be aware that I blog regularly for a number of clients. Each week I post a different topic about New Zealand for Go4Travel and occasionally additional blogs about other destinations, most recently from Chile and Italy. This week’s post took me back to Rotorua, where I was impressed by some dramatic geothermal attractions.
http://www.go4travelblog.com/exploring-rotorua-geothermal-attractions/

Mud pools and steam, Rotorua

Mud pools and steam, Rotorua

I’ve also been writing for Trainline, having worked regularly for Trainline Europe since I left teaching. I recently blogged about station clocks, something that you might argue you’d only notice if they weren’t there! Have a look next time you take a rail trip and see if the clocks are anything special – you might be pleasantly surprised.
http://blog.thetrainline.com/2015/07/14/the-10-most-beautiful-train-station-clocks-in-the-world/

Aarau Station clock close up by Markus Meier CC BY-SA 2.5

Aarau Station clock close up by Markus Meier CC BY-SA 2.5

Trainline Europe keep me busy, and I’ll be heading off to France on assignment for them in August. I write a mixture of train reviews and articles designed to tempt people to try rail travel. This one is one of my favourites.
http://travel.thetrainline-europe.com/blog/wish-i-knew-before-taking-a-long-distance-train/

Sleeping compartment on the City Night Line service

Sleeping compartment on the City Night Line service