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Julia’s Guide to New York Part 1: Lower Manhattan

Here’s my guide for the first-time visitor to Lower Manhattan.

Begin at the southern tip of Manhattan, on the reclaimed land known as Battery Park City.  Walk across Battery Park until you see Castle Clinton (the large circular fort) and get tickets for the Statue of Liberty – I’d advise an early start as the queues can be long, even out of season.  Take the Circle Line cruise, get off at Liberty Island and have a close-up shot with the Statue.  You can go up inside the crown but you need to pre-book tickets which have limited availability.  When I last visited, the exhibition inside explained the technology behind creating the structure.  Book tickets ahead of time at www.statuecruises.com

The Statue of Liberty

The Statue of Liberty

The second stop on the Circle Line cruise is Ellis Island.  Temporarily closed after damage sustained by Storm Sandy’s flooding, it has now reopened.  This fascinating museum tells the story of immigration to the USA, focused on the migrants that came through Ellis Island.  You can imagine how scared some of them would have been as they stood in the hall with its huge arched windows.  Some of the pictures are haunting and it’s definitely worth hiring an audio guide to hear the stories.  Allow at least a couple of hours to absorb the information – more if you’re a history buff or genealogy fan.

If you’re not bothered about seeing Lady Liberty close up, you can take the Staten Island ferry from right next to the South Ferry subway building.  It’s free and runs every 15 to 30 minutes.  You get the same amazing view of southern Manhattan and Battery Park from the back of the ferry without having to pay, or queue.  The platform at the rear of the ferry is small, so wait by it when you board to be sure of a good spot on the left as you look back to Manhattan and across to the Statue of Liberty.

Lower Manhattan as viewed from the Staten Island Ferry

Lower Manhattan as viewed from the Staten Island Ferry

On your return to Battery Park, walk across the park to the Skyscraper Museum, tucked away opposite the Museum of Jewish Heritage on its western side.  Lots of people don’t know about this place but it has some interesting exhibits of skyscrapers within Manhattan and a main exhibit that changes regularly.  Check for current exhibit details at www.skyscraper.org

Head over to Bowling Green subway (green line) back towards the South Ferry station – you’ll see a sculpture crafted from 9/11 debris.  Walk north up Broadway and you’ll soon come across the Charging Bull sculpture the centre of the street – worth a brief photo and you sometimes get street performers or musicians hanging out here.

Arturo di Modica's famous Charging Bull sculpture

Arturo di Modica’s famous Charging Bull sculpture

Carry on up the street until you get to Wall Street and take the obligatory pictures of the New York Stock Exchange and opposite, Federal Hall.  You get a cool view standing next to the statue of George Washington and looking out over the street.  Now head north towards Fulton Street and turn down the street heading for South Street Seaport.  It’s worth noting that there’s a TKTS booth here which often has shorter queues than its better known counterpart in Times Square.  The old fish market has closed and relocated to the Bronx. The seaport buildings were hit badly by Storm Sandy in 2012 but renovations have been extensive. Pier 17 has reopened and there are a range of pleasant eateries in and around this area which makes a good spot for a lazy lunch.  If you want something quick and on the run, I love Ruben’s Empanadas – a little taste of Latin America right on Fulton Street.

Stroll off lunch with a walk along the East River boardwalk until you are just short of the Brooklyn Bridge – it makes for a good view.  You may wish to head up onto the bridge itself – you need to walk at least halfway across to you get a true feel for the bridge’s amazing architectural quality.  Alternative views can be had by taking a yellow water taxi across to Brooklyn and view Manhattan’s skyscrapers from the east.  Note that water taxi fares in summer are cheaper because in winter you have to buy a day pass.

The Brooklyn Bridge

The Brooklyn Bridge

Backtrack along Fulton Street and head for the tiny church of St Paul’s Chapel at 209 Broadway.  You’ll find the 9/11 Chapel of Remembrance here and if you walk around the back, you find the Liberty Bell in the churchyard.  Take the road to the right of the church and cut across to the junction of Liberty and West Streets for the entrance to the 9/11 memorial.  There’s no need to pre-book tickets anymore now that the museum is open – all the security checks now take place inside the museum, which is worth a visit.  You can also ascend New York’s tallest building, the Freedom Tower.  Your final stop just a few steps up from the memorial site at 233 Broadway is the Woolworth Building; built in 1913 and once the tallest building in the world.

9/11 Memorial at dusk

9/11 Memorial at dusk

My choice of dining in Lower Manhattan is at Fraunces Tavern, located at 54 Pearl Street.  Hop on the subway and travel a few stops to go back in time – this is the place where George Washington bade his farewells to his officers back in 1783.  Fittingly, there is now a museum of American Revolutionary War history in the building.  The bar has an extensive menu of over 130 craft beers and ciders, hosts live music at weekends and the food is good too.

A beginner’s guide to the Riviera Maya

Mexico’s Riviera Maya is the name given to the stretch of Quintana Roo coastline that extends from Cancun in the north (or a few kilometres south of it, definitions vary) to the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve to the south. Together with the neighbouring state of Yucatan, it is a deservedly popular package and independent tourism destination. This guide is aimed at the first-time visitor and should help you to make the most of your holiday. Prices are shown in Mexican pesos, which at the time of writing had an exchange rate of about 23 to the pound. The information given was correct at the time of writing, but check locally as things change.

One of the four voladores

One of the four voladores

How to get there

Most visitors arrive at Cancun’s international airport just to the south of town, well served by direct scheduled flights from the UK, for example, with British Airways and Virgin Atlantic. It is possible to fly to Mexico City and catch a connecting flight but this takes longer. A wide range of packages are available. From the airport, the best way of getting to your hotel depends on your location. ADO buses serve the centres of Cancun and Playa del Carmen on a half-hourly basis, with fares of 270 pesos per person to Playa and 145 to 170 pesos to Cancun and its hotel zone. Shared airport shuttles are available to the main resort areas as are private hotel transfers though you’ll pay more than the scheduled bus. If you’re on a package, transfers will usually be included but check your booking documents.

Parrot in Xcaret Eco-park

Parrot in Xcaret Eco-park

How to get around

Taxis are cheap but better still are the minibuses called colectivos that ply the main road at regular intervals. To catch one, simply flag it down and tell the conductor your intended destination. Fares are cheap so take loose change and small notes; hang on to your receipt if you’re given one. In Playa, colectivos can be found in town at Calle 2 Norte between 15th and 20th, whereas in Cancun you’ll need to come out of the Zona Hotelera into downtown, where they congregate outside La Comercial Mexicana supermarket on Avenida Tulum.  In Tulum, look for them opposite the ADO bus station in the town. It’s a good idea to double check with your hotel once you arrive.

Several bus companies serve a large network across Quintana Roo (the state containing the coastal strip) and neighbouring Yucatan (where you’ll find Chichen Itza). The best quality buses, with fewer stops and therefore slightly dearer fares, are run by ADO, whose website is easy to navigate (it’s also in English) and tickets can be booked online. Local routes are also served by the cheaper Oriente and Mayab buses, which tend to be a little less comfortable and stop more frequently.

Where to stay

Cancun is the largest of the Mayan Riviera resorts. Created from scratch four decades ago, it basically consists of two areas: downtown, where the locals live, and the Zona Hotelera, a narrow strip of land flanked by a lagoon on one side and white sand in the other. Its lively nightlife and many bars attract a young crowd, especially from the USA and Canada. However, Cancun’s too noisy and brash for many, who instead head an hour down the coast to Playa del Carmen. Playa has grown immensely in the last decade, but its pedestrian street, Quinta, with a good selection of shops, bars and restaurants still attracts many people. The central beach, though eroded in places, is busy and lined with popular beach clubs playing music while its water is safe for swimming.

Blue margarita

Blue margarita

Alternatives to Cancun and Playa

Another hour by bus further south, Tulum has also developed rapidly with accommodation strung out along the beach as well as in town. Once home to a few hippy hangouts, it now also hosts stylish beach clubs and luxury hotels alongside hammocks and hostels. Puerto Morelos, midway between Cancun and Playa, is a small town that contains a few hotels. Akumal, a quarter of an hour south of Playa, serves those who like their resort town to be local and relatively unspoilt.

The easiest way to get to both Puerto Morelos and Akumal is by flagging down a colectivo on the side of the main road, known as the 307. Connecting Cancun to Tulum and beyond is a string of all-inclusive luxury resorts, gated from the main road and fiercely protective of their private patch of beach. These are well suited to families as the all-inclusive option makes budgeting easier and there are plenty of water-based activities for all ages.

Whether you’re a backpacker on a budget or a family seeking a fortnight of water sports and lazy days by the pool, there’s something on the Mayan Riviera that will cater for you. If you don’t mind being away from the beach, the town of Valladolid, two hours inland from Cancun, offers an alternative to independent travellers seeking a less touristy experience. ADO buses run frequently, with fares from 255 pesos each way from both Cancun and Playa del Carmen.

Art gallery in Valladolid selling all things Catrina, the symbol of the Day of the Dead festivities

Art gallery in Valladolid selling all things Catrina, the symbol of the Day of the Dead festivities

Set around a charming plaza, there are a handful of hotels and restaurants, one of the best being El Meson de Marques right on the main square. From Valladolid, it’s easy to get to the ruins of Chichen Itza and Ek Balam as well as to the pretty town of Merida to the north of the peninsula, itself a good base for visiting the ruins of Uxmal and Sayil. The town is busy and it can feel less comfortable in the heat without a cooling sea breeze, but Valladolid’s a useful stopping off point between the coast and Merida if you wish to tour the peninsula.

Theme parks

As you’d expect from a well-established destination, there’s a number of water and eco-parks to tempt holidaymakers out of their resorts. If you go to only one, make it Xcaret. Pronounced “ish-ca-rett”, the site was once a Mayan port. Visit its archaeological remains within the main park; the park itself is a fun way to spend the day (from 2480 pesos). You can swim in a lazy river and visit the park’s wildlife including turtles and dolphins. The park features a reconstructed Mayan ball court as well as a typical hacienda and folk art museum.

At night, stay for the spectacle that condenses a thousand years of history into a couple of hours (evening admission from 1814 pesos). It features everything from Mayan sport played with balls of fire to dance and folklore set pieces representing Mexico’s diverse regions. This and other performances such as an equestrian show and the exciting display put on by the Voladores de Papantla are included in the ticket price. It’s simple to find booths selling tickets in Cancun and Playa del Carmen or you can book online. Some activities carry a supplement. For more information visit the Xcaret website or pick up a leaflet when you arrive.

The show at Xcaret

The show at Xcaret

Xplor is the go-to park for thrill seekers. Tickets – prices are similar to Xcaret and bookable online – cover four attractions: a ride in an amphibious vehicle, a lazy river swim, underground rafting and the highest zip lines in Latin America. Full instruction is given and a helmet mounted camera ensures that you have a selection of photos as a memento of your day. As well as Xcaret and Xplor, there are a range of other attractions in a similar vein, including Xel-Ha and Rio Secreto.

Perhaps even more fun is to do what residents do to make the best of the landscape and cool off when it’s hot. Beneath the peninsula, the limestone rock has slowly been weathered away to create a fascinating underground world of sinkholes and caverns into which water has gradually filtered. These subterranean lagoons are known locally as cenotes, form natural swimming pools popular with families at weekends but often quieter in the week.

There are many cenotes close to the coast, but one of the best is Cenote Xkeken at Dzitnup. Located a little way out of Valladolid, it is a glistening turquoise lake lit through a hole in the roof of a huge cavern dangling with stalactites. The name is Mayan for pig; allegedly a farmer stumbled across it when one of his pigs fell into it by accident. Entrance costs 226 pesos; it’s possible to combine your visit with another nearby cenote, Samula.

Cenotes can be found throughout the peninsula

Cenotes can be found throughout the peninsula

Mayan ruins

The large number of historical sites in Quintana Roo and the Yucatan can leave the visitor ruined out. It’s best to choose a few and enjoy them, rather than attempt to tick them all off in one trip. The jewel in the crown is without a doubt Chichen Itza. A sprawling site surrounded by jungle, it centres around the restored Kukulkan pyramid and an interesting collection of other structures including an observatory and ball court. Every tour operator offers day trips, but the site is easy to visit independently.

ADO buses connect Chichen Itza directly to Cancun and Playa del Carmen via good roads. The relativly new Tren Maya also serves this part of the peninsula, though tickets aren’t cheap and schedules won’t always suit your plans. Guides for Chichen Itza can be hired at the entrance if you wish and they’ll provide valuable context if this is your first visit. A ticket to get in costs 697 pesos for foreign tourists. (Mexicans enjoy a discounted rate, locals even more so).

The Kukulkan pyramid at Chichen Itza

The Kukulkan pyramid at Chichen Itza

The must-see on the coast is Tulum, not for its scale but for its location. Tulum’s temples sit right on top of the cliff above a small patch of sand and a turquoise sea and unsurprisingly as a result receives the highest number of visitors of any of the peninsula’s archaeological sites. Like Chichen Itza, the volume of tourists necessitates obvious management and many structures are roped off, but the grey of the stone against the blue sky makes this a very atmospheric place despite the crowds. It’s still just possible to find a quiet spot with just a lizard or two for company, especially first thing in the morning. Tickets are priced at 100 pesos but you’ll also need to pay a conservation fee and also for entrance to the national park.

Tulum's dramatic setting

Tulum’s dramatic setting

Coba, just a few years ago off the beaten track but now increasingly in the tour operators’ sights, is situated an hour or so from Tulum. Once a thriving Mayan city, the ruins are scattered through an area of jungle crisis-crossed with Mayan roads known as sacbe. The pyramid here is less well preserved than that at Chichen Itza and for now at least can be climbed by anyone untroubled by vertigo – with just a single rope to cling on to, this is not a climb for those with a fear of heights. Entrance costs 210 pesos for foreigners but due to the size of the site, many people opt to rent bicycles or take a ride to the ruins in a cycle rickshaw at extra cost.

Coba's pyramid

Coba’s pyramid

Less well-known and yet only twenty minutes by colectivo from Valladolid are the extensive ruins at Ek Balam. Relatively recently rediscovered, like Coba the site has a pyramid to climb, the Acropolis, its 106 worn steps rising steeply from the ground to offer extraordinary views of the surrounding jungle from the top. Ek Balam means dark jaguar in Mayan and as a result, the observant will spot jaguar motifs carved into the stone throughout the site. The entrance fee is 671 pesos for foreign tourists.

Reach Ek Balam by colectivo taxi from Valladolid; either pay for a seat and wait for others to join you or pay for the whole car. As they’re taxis rather than minibuses, you’ll have to ask where to find them. Try Calle 44 between 37 and 35, tucked inside the courtyard of a building rather than on the road outside.

The little-visited Ek' Balam

The little-visited Ek’ Balam

Further afield, the attractive colonial town of Merida makes a convenient base if you wish to visit the Yucatecan sites of Sayil, Labna and Uxmal. It’s also close to Izamal whose ruins boast the largest surviving Mayan structure in the area. Getting to Merida takes around five hours by bus from the coastal resorts of Quintana Roo.

Natural wonders

A coral reef extends from the Riviera Maya down past Belize and on to Honduras. The second longest in the world, after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, it provides excellent opportunities for both snorkelling and diving. The largest protected reserve in the area is the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, south of the main tourist strip. Tours showcase its flora and fauna, in particular birds, dolphins and turtles, plus occasionally manatees for those lucky enough to spot them. Akumal’s public beach is a good place for green turtle watching. There’s no need to book a tour, as snorkelling equipment can be rented from the dive shop on the beach, from where it’s a short swim out to the reef. Even in busy spots such as the main beach at Playa del Carmen, you’ll see flamingos diving for fish and bobbing about amidst the breakers.

Playa del Carmen beach

Playa del Carmen beach

Off the coast

Cozumel, an established cruise ship and diving destination, is easily reached by ferry from the terminal at the southern end of Playa del Carmen. It offers the facilities you’d usually expect from a place where the majority of visitors are only in town for a short while. Island tours are expensive as are taxis. Isla Mujeres and Isla Holbox, reached by ferry from Cancun, are better bolt holes if you want a more laid back island stay.

Updated April 2026

Northern Peru: the Chacha circuit

The vast majority of visitors to the increasingly popular nation of Peru follow the southern tourist circuit, taking in the main sites of the Cusco area such as Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley.  They might extend their trip by heading to Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca, or to Arequipa, gateway to the Colca Canyon.  None of these places should be missed; Peru has some of the most beautiful scenery in the world and its kind-hearted population will give you a warm welcome.

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

Since I first visited Peru back in 1995, tourist infrastructure and its reliability has improved, along with the food that makes the country one of South America’s most enticing culinary destinations.  But the north remains overlooked, despite having ruins that easily rival those of the south in terms of interest but can be seen minus the crowds.  Visiting Chachapoyas and its surrounding attractions doesn’t have to push the south out of your itinerary completely.

Chachapoyas' cathedral in the Plaza de Armas

Chachapoyas’ cathedral in the Plaza de Armas

Here’s my lowdown on extending your visit; to take in all the places I mentioned you’ll need between five days and a week.

Getting there

Chachapoyas has its own airport.  It just doesn’t have any flights.  There are plans to begin commercial flights (LAN looks like the most likely contender) but in the meantime, getting there involves flying either to Tarapoto on the edge of the Amazon or to the Inca city of Cajamarca.  Both are well served by flights from Lima with airlines like LAN, Star Peru and LC Busre, but both routes entail a long bus ride on to Chachapoyas.  I took a day bus from Tarapoto to Chachapoyas, which was about an eight-hour ride and an overnight bus from Chachapoyas on to Cajamarca, a bone shaking ten hours including a change of bus in the middle of the night.

On the way from Tarapoto

On the way from Tarapoto

Buses are rarely completely full on the Tarapoto to Chachapoyas route and it is usually possible to catch a bus without pre-booking. Usually, it’s necessary to take the bus as far as the town of Pedro Ruiz.  Passengers heading for Chachapoyas are then escorted a few metres up the main street and take a colectivo (shared minibus) for the rest of the journey.  These leave when full but you don’t normally have to wait long.  Some days you can also catch a tourist shuttle direct to Chachapoyas but check locally to see if it is running.  The Virgen Del Carmen overnight bus from Chachapoyas to Cajamarca runs from Calle Salamanca, a couple of blocks north of the Plaza de Armas and it is wise to book a day in advance.  There is plenty of information online about this being a day bus but at the time I travelled only the overnight service was operational.  Again check locally; schedules alter, and if you can get a day bus to Cajamarca the scenery will take your mind off the condition of the road.

Plaza de Armas, Chachapoyas

Plaza de Armas, Chachapoyas

Chachapoyas

Chacha, as it is commonly known by travellers, is a small and easily manageable town with an attractive main square. The town has a few minor attractions itself, including the pretty Huancas Gorge just outside of town just a little way past the airport turn off.

Huancas Gorge

Huancas Gorge

Any taxi driver will take you there and wait for a reasonable fare.  There’s also a charming adobe church in the sleepy plaza.

The adobe church in Huancas

The adobe church in Huancas

The other unmissable site (for a foodie at least) is the marvellous Tierra Mia Cafe, adjacent to the Hostal Casa Vieja on Calle Chincha Alta, a block from the main square.  The coffee is excellent and the food, especially their pastries and desserts, the best in town.

Get out of town

But the main draw of Chacha is not what’s in town, it’s what’s nearby. There are three unmissable attractions in the Chachapoyas area: Kuelap, Karajia and Gocta Falls.  Surrounding the square are a whole host of tour operators selling day excursions to the region’s most popular sites.  In season, there are just enough visitors to make such tours viable but you might need to be flexible with your schedule in order to visit all the places you wish.

En route to Gocta Falls

En route to Gocta Falls

Gocta Falls

One of the world’s highest waterfalls, Gocta is reached at the end of a strenuous hike which begins at the small village of Cocachimba, a short drive from Chacha.

The trail to Gocta Falls in dry season

The trail to Gocta Falls in dry season

The trek takes walkers up and over a densely forested hill on a path that is slippery and muddy even in dry season.  The incline is so great that even locals puff, but fortunately horses can be rented for the worst part of the trail.

Horse relaxing after its trip to Gocta Falls

Horse relaxing after its trip to Gocta Falls

Along the way, the scenery is lush and from time to time, glimpses of Gocta Falls can be caught across the valley encouraging hikers to keep going.  The Falls are situated in such a secluded location that they remained unknown outside the local area until 2005.

Gocta Falls

Gocta Falls

The ruined fortress of Kuelap

Kuelap is a ruined fortress dating, it’s thought, from around 600AD, its imposing stone walls punctuated by tumbledown staircases whose steps have been worn away over the centuries.

Kuelap Fortress

Kuelap Fortress

At the top, there are some interesting circular structures, one of which has been reconstructed with controversially more guesswork than historical knowledge, though with its photogenic thatched cone roof no one from the tourist board is really complaining.

Kuelap reconstruction

Kuelap reconstruction

Llamas still wander through the extensive site, which as a result of its hilltop location offers dramatic views over the surrounding valleys.

Llama at Kuelap

Llama at Kuelap

Peru’s tourism ministry is beginning to market Kuelap as the “new” Machu Picchu and a cable car is likely to open in 2016 making it quicker to reach.

Kuelap

Kuelap

The sarcophagi of Karajia

Imagine the Easter Island moai, but shrunk and plonked halfway up a remote cliff. You might be getting close to imagining what Karajia’s sarcophagi are like.

The sarcophagi at Karajia

The sarcophagi at Karajia

Around two feet tall and hollow inside, these clay figures housed mummies of the Chachapoyas tribe who lived in the area between 1000 and 1300AD but were only revealed to the outside world thirty years ago.  Getting to Karajia is an adventure in itself; motorised transport can only get as far as the village of Cruzpata, from where it’s a steep climb down a gravel path to the cliffs where the sarcophagi are found.

Cruzpata village

Cruzpata village

Horses can be rented if you think your lungs won’t cope with the tough climb back to the village.  Tours to Karajia are often combined with a visit to Quiocta Cavern.

The verdict

Despite the relatively small number of foreign tourists, the area around Chachapoyas is definitely worth a visit and the proliferation of tour operators in the town means that getting to the outlying sites is straightforward and cost-effective.  Visitor numbers are slowly but steadily rising, however, so if you want to explore without sharing your experience with coachloads of others, now is the time to go.

 

Little Italy in The Bronx

“You walked from the subway? Did you come with a SWAT team?”

Jack was trying to be funny, I think, playing on the reputation of the South Bronx as dangerous. I was in his shop, DeCicco Brothers, on Arthur Avenue, where in true Italian style I had been embraced and welcomed as part of the family within about fifteen minutes of rocking up.  There was no mistaking he was proud of his Italian heritage: the shop was packed with the distinctive blue of the national team’s football kit and piles of T-shirts emblazoned with the slogan “I’m Italian, I can’t keep calm”.  Low rise and lined with trees, this characterful street at the heart of Little Italy had more in common with leafy Greenwich Village than a gang-infested no-go zone.

Leafy Arthur Avenue

Leafy Arthur Avenue

DeCicco's best T-shirt

DeCicco’s best T-shirt

The Bronx has had a hard time shaking off its bad boy reputation. “The Bronx is burning” was a phrase coined in 1977 by the media (rather than sports commentator Howard Cosell to whom the phrased is wrongly credited).  It referred to the many fires that burned that summer when ageing housing stock combined with closures of firehouses had horrific consequences.  The closure in 1973 of the 3rd Avenue El, New York City’s last elevated railway, and the completion of urban planner Robert Moses’ Cross-Bronx Expressway a year earlier, had fractured a community.  The social and economic problems that were to follow resulted in a reputation that’s been difficult to shift.

New York has a long history of Italian immigration. Between the 1870s and the 1920s, around 5 million Italians, the majority from the Mezzogiorno, came to the USA and around a third never made it any further than New York’s five boroughs.  Little Italy in Manhattan, now a shadow of its former self, retains a smattering of restaurants that fool only the most gullible of tourists into thinking they are in a genuine Italian-American neighbourhood.  In truth, the Italians have long since moved away and the area is gradually being assimilated into Chinatown.  According to some reports, the 2010 census doesn’t record a single Italian-born individual living in this part of the city.

Tino's Delicatessen

Elderly Italians outside Tino’s Delicatessen

Little Italy in the Bronx, in contrast, is thriving, a tiny oasis of cor-fee and mozzarella and prosciutto packed into a few streets of the Belmont district. At Tino’s Delicatessen I sipped a cinnamon-scented cappuccino in the company of four elderly gentlemen, their faces lined and puffy from years of pasta and hard living.  Despite the warm November sunshine, they were heavily wrapped up against the elements.  Pausing occasionally to apologise for the profanities which escaped their lips, they put the world to rights as they probably did every morning.  I’m not sure what they made of me, an outsider.

Tino's delicatessen

Tino’s delicatessen

A few doors further down Arthur Avenue, Jack DeCicco’s father Tony wandered in off the street and was keen to share his story. Together with his wife, he had arrived from Napoli in 1969 and had been in Little Italy ever since.  He was immensely proud of his neighbourhood and took me to some of his favourite haunts: the Casa Della Mozzarella around the block on 187th Street, described by one Brooklynite as “oral dairy porn” and Vincent’s Meat Market, where row upon row of sausage and salami hang like chandeliers from the ceiling.  The area is a foodie’s paradise, where everything from salt cod to handmade ravioli can be bought today just as it has been for decades.

The ceiling of sausage

The ceiling of sausage

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Casa Della Mozzarella

In a city that likes to reinvent itself and in a borough where so much was destroyed, there’s something comforting about the number of businesses that were founded at turn of the last century rather than the current one. Go and see for yourself – no SWAT team required.

Trialling the Caxton FX currency card in New York City

I’m a creature of habit. Packing for a trip to New York, I fall into the same tried and tested routine. When it comes to spending money, that means a wallet of crisp dollar bills which quickly morphs into a pocket full of nickels, dimes and pennies. Spending this ever-growing mountain of coins involves finding a retail assistant (and a queue of other shoppers waiting behind me to pay) with the patience of a saint while I count out the exact change. Of course, if they didn’t add on the tax at the till, I could sort it out beforehand instead of admitting defeat and breaking another twenty. So, at the end of the trip, I tip my leftover coins into the drawer at home and resolve to do things differently next time.

This time I have. For the last two days I have been trying out a Caxton FX currency card. Loaded up with dollars and bearing the Visa logo, I can use this like I would a regular credit card, but without the end of holiday bill that can take the edge off a good vacation.

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Here’s what I did with it.

Day 1: The Bronx

Tino’s delicatessen in Arthur Avenue looked like the perfect spot for a coffee. Four elderly Italians with accents like Robert de Niro sat at one of the pavement cafes while I took the other. Interrupting their conversations every now and again to apologise for their colourful language, they spoke warmly of this close-knit community that had been their home for decades and puffed cigar smoke into each other’s faces.

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