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Travels closer to home

With no foreign trips planned until 2016, I’ve decided to focus on exploring the county that’s been my home for over four decades: Essex.  In the beautiful October sunshine, this week I headed to Paper Mill Lock, a tranquil spot yet an easy drive from the county town of Chelmsford.  It’s times like these that I’m glad to live in the driest part of the UK.  In this sheltered spot, I had an al-fresco sandwich filled with thick butcher’s sausages and tangy onion chutney while watching a pair of ducks glide up and down alongside the boats.

To bridge

The Chelmer and Blackwater Navigation dates from the 1790s, linking Chelmsford to the coast near Maldon.  In the early days, its cargo was mostly coal, bricks and timber heading inland; these days it’s a leisure and pleasure canal.  The lock’s one of twelve; it takes its name from the paper mill that stood next to another grinding corn as far back as 1792.  It’s possible to walk the length of the canal.  At the coast, you’ll end up at Heybridge Basin where you’ll find a couple of decent pubs including the dog-friendly Jolly Sailor.

Boats moored

Rothenburg ob der Tauber – does Germany get any better than this?

Yesterday I had the good fortune to visit Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a well preserved walled mediaeval town on Germany’s Romantic Road. In summer, so I’m told, the town’s full of tour groups but in October, the crowds thin allowing you a little breathing space. And if you’re lucky, like I was, to be blessed with a beautifully sunny day, then it surely doesn’t get much better than this?

The most photographed spot in town: Plonlein

The most photographed spot in town: Plonlein and the Siebertor

Rothenberg's side streets are just as quaint

Rothenburg’s side streets are just as quaint

The Town Hall dates from 1250, Gothic style at the rear and Renaissance at the newer front of the building pictured here

The Town Hall dates from 1250, Gothic style at the rear and Renaissance style at the newer front of the building (as pictured here)

Dancers from an English visiting theatre company perform in front of the tourist office, housed in a former tavern

Dancers from a visiting English theatre company perform in front of the tourist office, housed in a former tavern

On a bakery wall

On a bakery wall

There's nothing delicate about the local delicacy, Schneebälle

There’s nothing delicate about the local delicacy, Schneebälle

Troughs and window boxes crammed with flowers can be found throughout the town

Troughs and window boxes crammed with flowers can be found throughout the town

Herrngasse looking back towards the market square

Herrngasse looking back towards the market square

Castle Gate featuring spectacular views across the Tauber Valley from the adjacent gardens

Burgtor featuring spectacular views across the Tauber Valley from the adjacent gardens

One of the old wooden gates

One of the old wooden gates

The bottom of Klingentor

The bottom of Klingentor

Autumn colours, viewed from the bottom of Klingenstrasse

Autumn colours, viewed from the bottom of Klingengasse

Mediaeval walls enclose the Old Town

Mediaeval walls enclose the Old Town

The view from the top of Rodertor

The view from the top of Rödertor

The Gatekeeper's Lodge as seen from the top of Rödertor

The Gatekeeper’s Lodge as seen from the top of Rödertor

Beautiful Bremen

How did it take me so long to cotton on to Bremen? I’ve known it since I was a kid thanks to the Brothers Grimm’s fairytale about a donkey, dog, cat and rooster who, on the scrapheap of old age, decide to run away and try their luck as musicians in Bremen. The walk makes them tired, and they scare the owners out of a house they come across on the way, liking it so much they never make it to Bremen. That hasn’t stopped the city adopting the four scoundrels as their mascot, and you’ll see references all over the place.

But there’s more to the city than just a fairytale, which you’ll see for yourself by looking at the pictures below.

Pigs used to roam along Sogestrasse munching on scraps

Pigs used to roam along Sogestraße munching on scraps

Roland and the Rathaus

Roland and the Rathaus

The four budding musicians

The four budding musicians

Not the only balancing act by the square

Not the only balancing act by the square

Cafes in the square

Cafes in the square

The Rathaus occupies pride of place in a square crammed full of historic treasures.  Opposite is the Schütting, a beautiful guildhall which sadly isn’t open to the public.  It was designed and built back in 1538 and when you see it, you’ll think it wouldn’t look out of place in the Netherlands.  Designed by Flemish architect Johann den Buschener, you’d be right.  Take a seat in the morning sunshine at one of the pavement cafes and you can admire both, together with the statue of Roland, a knight symbolising freedom, until your coffee goes cold.  Bremen even has a specific word for the act of going for a coffee, Kaffeesieren, so it is an essential stop on your itinerary.

Close up of the Schutting, opposite the Rathaus

Close up of the Schütting, opposite the Rathaus

Bottcherstrasse

Böttcherstraße

Around the corner from the square you’ll find a tiny street with a big attitude.  Böttcherstraße, famous for its unusual architecture and a shed-load of artwork, is a tourist attraction in itself.  At the House of the Glockenspiel, the bells up on the roof go crazy at 12, 3 and 6pm playing tunes that last for a full ten minutes after the hour has been struck.  Hidden in a little courtyard, you’ll find another sculpture of those wandering critters, this time adorning a water feature outside a candy store.

The street has ancient beginnings as the site was once occupied by the coopers that give the street its name.  But Böttcherstraße in its present form actually dates only from the 1920s when a local coffee merchant by the name of Ludwig Roselius began buying up the houses in what was a pretty rundown street.  With the aid of architects Eduard Scotland and Alfred Runge, he transformed the tiny lane into a much-loved arcade of Art Deco and brick shops and museums that is now one of the city’s most attractive destinations.

At the entrance to this arty little street

At the entrance to this arty little street

Another donkey

Another donkey

Is it me or does this look like Shrek?

Is it me or does this look like Shrek?

Definitely too skinny to be Shrek

Definitely too skinny to be Shrek

Like many German cities, Bremen's great for cycling

Like many German cities, Bremen’s great for cycling

Windmill in the park

Windmill in the park

At the Neptune fountain in the market place

At the Neptune fountain in the market place; don’t you just know how she feels?

Evening in Krakow’s Old Town Square

A few photos from the other night, pottering around Rynek Glowny, Krakow’s beautiful Old Town market square.

Horse and carriages lined up ready for their next fare

Horse and carriages lined up ready for their next fare

The twin towers of St Wojciech's church next to the Renaissance-era Cloth Hall

The twin towers of St Mary’s church next to the Renaissance-era Cloth Hall

The Cloth Hall, packed full of amber sellers

The Cloth Hall, packed full of amber sellers

Interior of the Cloth Hall

Interior of the Cloth Hall

Closed up for the night around 8pm

Closed up for the night around 8pm

Exterior colonnaded walkways

Exterior colonnaded walkways

Exterior of Cloth Hall

Exterior of Cloth Hall

St Adabert's Church with its pretty verdigris domes

St Adalbert’s Church with its pretty verdigris domes

Ham hocks for sale

Ham hocks for sale

Ham hock with fried potatoes and black pudding

Ham hock with fried potatoes and black pudding

Piwo (beer) stall

Piwo (beer) stall

The only miserable face I saw all evening!

The only miserable face I saw all evening!

Trialling the Seasons Visa debit card in Orlando, Florida

Recently I was asked whether I’d like to try out the Seasons Visa debit card. Regular readers of my blog will know I carried out a similar trial using the Caxton FX prepaid card in New York last year. With that card, I’d had about a 50% success rate and thus wasn’t completely sure I’d use it again, but the Seasons team were confident in their product. An easy to use app makes checking your balance and reloading the card a simple and quick process. I decided to take them up on their offer. This was the deal: they’d load some money onto the card, and I’d go and spend it in return for writing about my experience. So here I am in Orlando, and here’s how I got on.

Harry P Leu gardens and museum
Transaction: admission for one adult $10
Status: not possible to use the card on the day I visited as the card machine was out of order, but the cashier said that it would normally have been accepted
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This downtown treasure is a world away from the hubbub of International Drive and the crowds that throng Orlando’s many theme parks. The extensive grounds to what was once Harry Leu’s home are filled with all kinds of plants and flowers brought back over the course of his travels. Huge bamboos and towering palms contrast with delicate roses and the pretty flowers of the butterfly garden. Without a doubt, this was the highlight of my stay.

Lunch at Shake Shack
Transaction: a SmokeStack burger, cost $7.12
Status: card swiped, payment accepted
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Shake Shack started off as a lunch cart selling hot dogs in New York’s Madison Square Park over a decade ago. Since that humble beginning, its fame has spread and this popular chain can now be found across the States and beyond. Their shakes, as you’d expect from the name, are legendary, so make sure you order one to accompany your meal.

Orlando Science Center
Transaction: one adult ticket, cost $27
Status: card swiped, payment accepted
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If you’re travelling with kids and feel that they (or you) need a break from white knuckle rides and Mickey Mouse, then this may be the perfect antidote to theme park fatigue. This place makes science fun; I found out just how hard it is to present the weather, experienced a hurricane-strength blast of air in a wind tunnel and tried to keep my balance on an earthquake simulator. With IMAX movies about space exploration, a dino dig and alligators in a ground floor tank, there’s something to entertain all the family. It’s great way to spend a rainy afternoon.

Outlet mall shopping at Gap
Transaction: one long-sleeved white T-shirt, cost $8.52
Status: card swiped, pin number required, payment accepted
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Few Brits come to Orlando without making at least one trip to an outlet mall, where there are huge discounts to be had on many of our favourite brands. Gap’s my staple. I’d usually use cash for such a small transaction rather than my credit card, but carrying the Seasons card meant I didn’t need to fiddle around with a purse full of coins. One swipe and I was good to go.

Refreshments at Starbucks
Transaction: a drink and a bun, cost $6.08
Status: card swiped, payment accepted
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All that shopping was thirsty work, so a quick stop in my go-to global coffee chain was in order. Again, using a prepay card for a low value transaction was quick and trouble free. When they realised they didn’t have the bun I’d been charged for, it was just as simple to swipe the card again and put the refunded value straight back.

Margaritas at happy hour
Transaction: two drinks, cost $6
Status: card swiped, payment accepted
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If the sun’s out and there’s an al fresco bar, then happy hour may just be too hard to resist. And with margaritas at $3 a pop, one each before the film seemed like a good idea.

A movie at Cinemark
Transaction: one adult ticket, cost $9.75
Status: card swiped, payment accepted
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With so many cinemas in town, it’s hard not to catch at least one movie. I opted for Black Mass. With Johnny Depp in the starring role, this is the true story of South Boston crim Jimmy Bulger. A strong supporting cast and compelling storyline made this a memorable film.

A trashy read from Walgreens
Transaction: one magazine, cost $5.31
Status: card swiped, payment accepted
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No country does the cult of celebrity like the USA and there are plenty of magazines to fuel people’s obsession. With Prince Harry on the cover, this girl’s copy of US Weekly is coming home with her.

Downtown Disney for a souvenir
Transaction: a Mickey Mouse cookie cutter, cost $6.34
Status: card swiped, payment accepted
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You didn’t think I’d write a blog from Orlando without at least mentioning Disney, did you? No parks this time – been there, done that – but always room in the suitcase for something Mouse. Now I get to make Mickey-themed biscuits when I get home.

The verdict

Aside from the Harry P Leu Gardens where their card machine was down, the Seasons Visa debit card worked every time. I’d be confident travelling with this, loading value onto the card instead of carrying a lot of cash. Best of all, the fact that the balance is stored as pounds means that if I don’t spend it all, I can use it when I get home. This one’s a keeper.

For more information on the Seasons Visa debit card visit http://seasonstravelcard.com/