Part 2 of my guide to the Big Apple covers Manhattan’s west side from Washington Square to Central Park.

This route begins in Washington Square, where Harry left Sally after their road trip from Chicago.  This landmark square has also featured in the Will Smith film I am Legend and is worth a visit for a picture of the arch.  Head north along West 4^th Street, through the attractive residential area of Greenwich Village.  Turn left into Grove Street and a couple of blocks further on you’ll come to the building that featured as the apartment building in the hit TV show Friends.  Backtrack a block and head north along Bleecker Street.  There are plenty of boutiques and cafes, but the one that may well have a queue outside is the original branch of the Magnolia Bakery, whose melt-in-the-mouth cupcakes featured in the HBO show Sex and the City.

Washington Square arch

One of my favourite things about New York is its capacity for change so today I’d recommend you then have a wander in what was once the heart of New York’s butchery area.  Today the Meatpackers’ District is home to cute cafes and designer clothes stores, where warehouses have been turned into cutting edge businesses.

To get to the heart of the Meatpackers District, continue north along Hudson Street and right into Gansevoort Street.   In the area bounded by Gansevoort and West 14^th Street, you’ll pass enough boutiques and outlets to get a feel for the area.  Turn down Washington Street and at the corner with West 13^th Street is the Hogs and Heifers bar from the film Coyote Ugly.  One block south is the start of the High Line, a fantastic community-driven renovation that showcases the architecture of the area whilst turning an overground railway into a recreational facility for locals and tourists alike.  It’s heaving in the summer but in the winter, pick a clear day and you’ll be able to wander in peace and really appreciate your surroundings.  Wrap up warm against the wind though – when a cold wind blows across the Hudson, it bites into your face like a swarm of angry mosquitoes.  One of the architectural highlights is The Standard Hotel which straddles the High Line.  Nip down for a Fat Witch brownie from the Fat Witch Bakery in Chelsea Market at 9^th Avenue.  Go online to www.fatwitch.com to see what might tempt you.

The High Line in winter

Back on the High Line, continue north; the park narrows and widens, offering vistas over art installations and views across to skyline landmarks like the Empire State.   There are plenty of cosy nooks and crannies to snuggle up and you’ll have some of these pretty much to yourself in winter.

Follow the High Line right up to 30^th Street and then head east past the Post Office (don’t stand too close to the building or you might get an unwelcome souvenir from the pigeons).  It’s a fair walk across so you might wish to hail a yellow cab, but the walk will take you to 6^th Avenue.  Make a left and walk three (shorter) blocks to Herald Square at the back of Macys – the largest department store in the world, allegedly.  Plenty of cafes and food outlets are located in this area as this is the heart of Midtown.

Just a block over, on 5^th Avenue, is the Empire State Building.  You may wish to reserve in advance as it can be pretty busy; go online at www.esbnyc.com.  This Art Deco structure is one of the world’s most iconic buildings and definitely worth a visit.  Don’t let them upsell you to the Skyride – it’s not worth the time or the money.  The views from the 86^th floor on a clear day are excellent, but the wind can be strong on at least one side of the viewing platform.  Prepare yourself with a photogenic hat or plenty of hairspray.

The Empire State Building

North along 5^th Avenue takes you to Bryant Park, where there’s a good Christmas market and, when the weather’s warm, al fresco eateries.  Cut back west to Times Square and note the location.  It’s tourist central, of course, emblazoned with neon and awash with comic book characters just dying to pose for a photo.  If you like what you see, come back after dark.  From Times Square, head for the subway and take the red line to 72^nd Street (it’s an express stop, so the 1, 2 and 3 are all fine).  If you’re hungry, try a hot dog from Gray’s Papaya and walk a couple of blocks over to the park.

Central Park is a must and from the west, you’ll follow a trail of pampered pooches heading into the park.  If you have your own back home, pick up a canine-friendly gift from the New York Dog Shop on 73^rd Street – purple squeaky Empire State toy, anyone?  Enter the park at the 72^nd Street Traverse and look for the memorial to John Lennon, the legendary musician shot on December 8^th 1980 outside the Dakota Building which stands across the street.  The Imagine mosaic forms part of a tribute area known as Strawberry Fields, funded by a $1 million donation from John’s widow Yoko Ono.  Continue through the park.  In summer, you might rent a boat from the Loeb Boathouse; in winter, perhaps try your luck at ice-skating on the Wollman rink.

Central Park

The days of one Central Park attraction might be numbered, however.  Despite Mayor de Blasio’s intention to ban them, at the time of writing it is still possible to take a horse and carriage ride through the park; they congregate along 59^th Street at the southern edge of the park.  They’ve been a part of the Park since the day it opened back in 1858 and Hollywood stars such as Liam Neeson and Danny Glover have made no secret of their opposition to the Mayor’s plans, along with an estimated 67% of New Yorkers.  Find out more about the issue at www.savenychorsecarriages.com.

When you’re done, make your way back to see the lights of Times Square.  You may wish to eat at Ellen’s Stardust Diner.  It’s not to everyone’s taste, but those that love it enjoy the singing wait staff and its 1950s retro diner decor.  You’ll find it at Broadway and 51^st, or if you can’t see it, listen out for a song.  To round off the evening, pay a visit to the observatory platform at the Top of the Rock.  This offers unrivalled views of Manhattan for one reason – your view will include the Empire State Building.  Depending on the season, this after-dinner slot may coincide with sunset, and it’s certainly an impressive vista after dark, although you may not wish to ascend this and the ESB in the same trip, especially if your time is limited.  Pre-book your ticket at http://www.topoftherocknyc.com to avoid having to wait in line.

Sunset at the Top of the Rock NYC

Here’s my guide for the first-time visitor to Lower Manhattan.

Begin at the southern tip of Manhattan, on the reclaimed land known as Battery Park City.  Walk across Battery Park until you see Castle Clinton (the large circular fort) and get tickets for the Statue of Liberty – I’d advise an early start as the queues can be long, even out of season.  Take the Circle Line cruise, get off at Liberty Island and have a close-up shot with the Statue.  You can go up inside the crown but you need to pre-book tickets which have limited availability.  When I last visited, the exhibition inside explained the technology behind creating the structure.  Book tickets ahead of time at www.statuecruises.com

The Statue of Liberty

The second stop on the Circle Line cruise is Ellis Island.  Temporarily closed after damage sustained by Storm Sandy’s flooding, it has now reopened.  This fascinating museum tells the story of immigration to the USA, focused on the migrants that came through Ellis Island.  You can imagine how scared some of them would have been as they stood in the hall with its huge arched windows.  Some of the pictures are haunting and it’s definitely worth hiring an audio guide to hear the stories.  Allow at least a couple of hours to absorb the information – more if you’re a history buff or genealogy fan.

If you’re not bothered about seeing Lady Liberty close up, you can take the Staten Island ferry from right next to the South Ferry subway building.  It’s free and runs every 15 to 30 minutes.  You get the same amazing view of southern Manhattan and Battery Park from the back of the ferry without having to pay, or queue.  The platform at the rear of the ferry is small, so wait by it when you board to be sure of a good spot on the left as you look back to Manhattan and across to the Statue of Liberty.

Lower Manhattan as viewed from the Staten Island Ferry

On your return to Battery Park, walk across the park to the Skyscraper Museum, tucked away opposite the Museum of Jewish Heritage on its western side.  Lots of people don’t know about this place but it has some interesting exhibits of skyscrapers within Manhattan and a main exhibit that changes regularly.  Check for current exhibit details at www.skyscraper.org

Head over to Bowling Green subway (green line) back towards the South Ferry station – you’ll see a sculpture crafted from 9/11 debris.  Walk north up Broadway and you’ll soon come across the Charging Bull sculpture the centre of the street – worth a brief photo and you sometimes get street performers or musicians hanging out here.

Arturo di Modica’s famous Charging Bull sculpture

Carry on up the street until you get to Wall Street and take the obligatory pictures of the New York Stock Exchange and opposite, Federal Hall.  You get a cool view standing next to the statue of George Washington and looking out over the street.  Now head north towards Fulton Street and turn down the street heading for South Street Seaport.  It’s worth noting that there’s a TKTS booth here which often has shorter queues than its better known counterpart in Times Square.  The old fish market has closed and relocated to the Bronx. The seaport buildings were hit badly by Storm Sandy in 2012 but renovations have been extensive. Pier 17 has reopened and there are a range of pleasant eateries in and around this area which makes a good spot for a lazy lunch.  If you want something quick and on the run, I love Ruben’s Empanadas – a little taste of Latin America right on Fulton Street.

Stroll off lunch with a walk along the East River boardwalk until you are just short of the Brooklyn Bridge – it makes for a good view.  You may wish to head up onto the bridge itself – you need to walk at least halfway across to you get a true feel for the bridge’s amazing architectural quality.  Alternative views can be had by taking a yellow water taxi across to Brooklyn and view Manhattan’s skyscrapers from the east.  Note that water taxi fares in summer are cheaper because in winter you have to buy a day pass.

The Brooklyn Bridge

Backtrack along Fulton Street and head for the tiny church of St Paul’s Chapel at 209 Broadway.  You’ll find the 9/11 Chapel of Remembrance here and if you walk around the back, you find the Liberty Bell in the churchyard.  Take the road to the right of the church and cut across to the junction of Liberty and West Streets for the entrance to the 9/11 memorial.  There’s no need to pre-book tickets anymore now that the museum is open – all the security checks now take place inside the museum, which is worth a visit.  You can also ascend New York’s tallest building, the Freedom Tower.  Your final stop just a few steps up from the memorial site at 233 Broadway is the Woolworth Building; built in 1913 and once the tallest building in the world.

9/11 Memorial at dusk

My choice of dining in Lower Manhattan is at Fraunces Tavern, located at 54 Pearl Street.  Hop on the subway and travel a few stops to go back in time – this is the place where George Washington bade his farewells to his officers back in 1783.  Fittingly, there is now a museum of American Revolutionary War history in the building.  The bar has an extensive menu of over 130 craft beers and ciders, hosts live music at weekends and the food is good too.